First time pool opening and a lot of conflicting information

poolno0b

Member
May 13, 2025
5
NoVa
Hi all,

I’ve been watching videos and reading a lot online, but I’m getting mixed advice from the local pool company versus what I’ve found on the internet.

I opened the pool on Saturday. The saltwater generator is running, and I’ve put 4–5 chlorine tablets in the skimmer basket. I also added 3 bottles of shock, but the pool is still green.

I had my water tested, and the pool store recommended I add 3 lbs of shock (to reach 5 ppm), 1 quart of muriatic acid, and an algaecide. However, everything I’ve read suggests I should be shocking the pool to 10+ ppm to deal with algae effectively (and some staining). I asked the pool company if I should add CYA first and they told me not to worry about that yet.

From what I’ve gathered online, here's what I think I should do instead
  • Turn off the saltwater generator for now
  • Add 6 lbs of stabilizer to bring CYA up to 30
  • Add 1 gallon of 14.5% muriatic acid to lower the pH by about 0.5
  • Add 6 bottles of 10% liquid chlorine, which should raise free chlorine to about 19 ppm
Does that sound right? Am I missing anything?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: Before you start adjusting chemical levels, I would first obtain a proper test kit and test the water yourself. It's easy and much more reliable. Plus, if you have algae, you will require a SLAM Process which requires a specific treatment protocol and frequent testing, something the local stores know nothing about.

A TF-100/Pro-Series or Taylor K-2006C test kit is recommended.

For now, I would just add one gallon of liquid pool chlorine each day until you receive one of those kits. Then you can be sure to have accurate results and reliable results. :goodjob:
 
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Welcome to TFP! :wave: Before you start adjusting chemical levels, I would first obtain a proper test kit and test the water yourself. It's easy and much more reliable. Plus, if you have algae, you will require a SLAM Process which requires a specific treatment protocol and frequent testing, something the local stores know nothing about.

A TF-100/Pro-Series or Taylor K-2006C test kit is recommended.

For now, I would just add one gallon of liquid pool chlorine each day until you receive one of those kits. Then you can be sure to have accurate results and reliable results. :goodjob:
Thanks! I actually bought the k2006 kit but it's an overwhelming experience to test. I watched a few YouTube videos and it seemed complicated. is there a resource you would point me to? also, do you think the data shared with me by the pool store is not accurate?
 
Pat's has you covered, I'll add that you can't slam safely without a proper test kit. The FC testing allows FC test to 50ppm accurately. It also contains an accurate CYA test, which is needed to SLAM.
 
also, do you think the data shared with me by the pool store is not accurate?
no. They are kind of like the weather predictions which are sometimes right and sometimes wrong, but it’s OK, but nobody expected them to be right all the time anyway.
 
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also, do you think the data shared with me by the pool store is not accurate?
No, your test kit is way more accurate. We don't trust pool store testing as a result. If we made recommendations on incorrect testing, we can do harm...we don't want no harm...
 
Ok thanks everyone. I ran the test on my k2006.

I filled to 25mL
I have .6ppm FC (took me 3 drops to go colorless)
3.6 CC (took me 18 drops to go colorless)
As for the CYA test, I filled to the top but could still see the black circle (pic included)
Ph: a little confused here. I think it was 8+ (pic included). I did the acid demand test, and it took me 2 drops to get to 7.6. Hopefully that’s helpful.

Is this enough information to get started?
IMG_5072.jpegIMG_5073.jpeg
 
Yes.
You need pool math. Download it, login with your TFP login/password, configure your pool. Enable sharing with TFP so we can see your results. Link-->PoolMath
First, start testing with 10mL of water for the FC test. Each drop is .5FC. Plenty accurate and will save reagent.
I would add enough liquid chlorine to get to 10ppm, and retest FC 30 minutes later and report that. Use pool math to get amount to add.
Wait 10 minutes after you add the liquid chlorine, then reduce your pH by .4, use muriatic acid, test pH again 30 minutes after addition. Again use pool math.
Post the 30 minute after FC results and pH picture.
 

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Yes.
You need pool math. Download it, login with your TFP login/password, configure your pool. Enable sharing with TFP so we can see your results. Link-->PoolMath
First, start testing with 10mL of water for the FC test. Each drop is .5FC. Plenty accurate and will save reagent.
I would add enough liquid chlorine to get to 10ppm, and retest FC 30 minutes later and report that. Use pool math to get amount to add.
Wait 10 minutes after you add the liquid chlorine, then reduce your pH by .4, use muriatic acid, test pH again 30 minutes after addition. Again use pool math.
Post the 30 minute after FC results and pH picture.
Here’s my pool


You’re suggesting I do the chlorine and muriatic acid. Do I not have to worry about CYA?
 
You’re suggesting I do the chlorine and muriatic acid. Do I not have to worry about CYA?
For the moment, I'm worried about ammonia. The elevated CC and low CYA is an indicator. The pH is likely 7.8, which is a contra indicator.
10ppm addition once will not hurt the pool and will confirm or deny ammonia.
Add the the chlorine, test 30 minutes later. Post results.
Wait 10 min after chlorine to add MA. Reduce pH by only .4 and post pic of results.
 
For the moment, I'm worried about ammonia. The elevated CC and low CYA is an indicator. The pH is likely 7.8, which is a contra indicator.
10ppm addition once will not hurt the pool and will confirm or deny ammonia.
Add the the chlorine, test 30 minutes later. Post results.
Wait 10 min after chlorine to add MA. Reduce pH by only .4 and post pic of results.
Got it. Will do this tomorrow. It’s going to rain, will that be an issue? Can I do it during the day or wait until evening?