First time owner just starting TFP method

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Analogbytes

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Bronze Supporter
Dec 22, 2016
314
Mansfield, Texas
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
First time pool and spa owner September 2016, so go easy on me. Found TFP through reading a review on Amazon in mid December, might be the best find ever.

TLDR
2 questions, with a more detailed explanation below:
1. How do manufactures of spas report the capacity? Is it to the brim, or is it at their recommended fill level?
2. Doing SLAM right now, I would like to bring the spa back up to the recommended fill level, which will lower my CYA(YEAH!). Should I add water now or finish SLAM first?

I filled the current water about 5 weeks ago using the pool store testing method. Not realizing that what the gave me as my daily chlorine/shock was dichloro. Yep, CYA is now at 50. I have now switched to bleach. My spa was eating FC like crazy, as in 6ppm or so every day with no use. I started the SLAM method last night, here were my starting numbers:
FC .2
CC .8
TA 60
CH 240
pH 7.6
CYA 50

I used the CYA/Chlorine chart to see that I needed to shock to 19.6 with my CYA so high. Used pool math and added 9 oz of 8.25 bleach. This brought FC to 25.5! I know I need to add some water, but I don't think it is that low, hints my first question above. 5 hours later, FC was 13.5 and CC was 1.5, added 2.8 oz bleach(lowered gallons on pool math), FC went to 20.5, better. Over night (8 hours) FC was 7.5 CC was 2.5. Added 4.5 oz(had to guess with head math, not as good as pool math) and FC was 22. I will check again as soon as I get home.

So to expand on question 2 above, having to shock so "high" (Noob here so it may not really be extreme), should I add water now to reduce CYA and shock at lower amounts or continue the SLAM and then add water?
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: I'm not a spa owner, but I'll try to help get you going on a few things until others reply to help clear-up any misconceptions:
- I suspect the mfr spa volume is at or near the top - much like a pool. Makes for better sales. :) Either way, you can learn your true spa/pool volume by what you see happening after adding chemicals by using the Poolmath calculator. If you over-shoot your target, your volume is probably lower, so adjust your volume on the calculator and see if you hit your target better the next time.
- Remember CYA doesn't go down just by adding more water. It's the actual water exchange that does it. That's why evaporation itself doesn't lower CYA.
- Since you are using the Taylor kit, they probably stated to use a 25 ml sample and multiply results by 0.2 for FC. Instead, you can use a 10ml water sample, one hefty scoop of powder, and multiply drop count by 0.5 (standard method). It's works just fine and you'll probably save some reagent.
- For using the CYA/Chlorine chart, we typically round-up/down for easy management. For example, if your CYA looked to be 45, we call it 50 and shoot for a SLAM FC of 20. If your CYA was closer to 40, then call it 40 and your SLAM FC would be 16, and so on.

Since your CYA seems to be 50, you can continue to SLAM at an FC of 20. You can also add water as needed and continue to monitor your levels as needed until the SLAM is complete. You can also apply these same principles to your pool testing so that soon you'll be able to terminate any pool service and just use your own testing to keep the pool water clear & sanitized. You have one of the best test kits available, so with more practice you'll be a pro in no time. Here's a couple more links that may help you:
How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?)
SLAMing a spa

Nice to have you with us!
 
Pat's got you off to a great start there!

I have both a pool and a spa and to be honest, the pool is easier to maintain than the spa. The small volume of water and high temperatures of the spa means it's a lot more sensitive to usage and uses more chlorine. I need to check it EVERY day or at least every other day and for sure several times after each usage to some extent. My pool... once the swimming season starts, it's pretty much like clockwork. I check chemistry daily (most of the time) but there are few surprises. The larger volume, lower temps and lower relative bather waste make it seem like a walk in the park compared to the spa.

Welcome to TFP! :wave:
 
Texas Splash said:
Remember CYA doesn't go down just by adding more water. It's the actual water exchange that does it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the welcome. I have read both those links and I guess I missed where you actually had to do a partial drain and refill to lower CYA. With it at 50, should I go ahead and do this to try and get it closer to 30ish? This was a used tub from a friend, and I didn't know about Ahh-some at the time. I was going to do that next time I replaced the water. Should I just start over and run the Ahh-some through it? I know that I may still have to fight some bacteria even with the drain refill, just not really sure. Water is 5-6 weeks old at this point.

Hmm, I guess I like to start with the challenge first:scratch:
 
50 ppm is still manageable and I wouldn't drain and refill unless you have a lot of cloudiness/odor in the tub or really want to to a flush with Ahh-some. Just make sure your FC is always above 4 ppm. If you do the ahh-some treatment, you can use the current water, add the product and follow as directed.
 
Been SLAMing spa for a week now. FC drop is now about 6ppm in 12 hours, which is half what it used to be. I was wondering what the average, if there is such a thing, time it takes to complete a SLAM?
 
:confused: I guess you are going to have to put me in the slow category. I read the entire thread, and get the concept that I think you are pointing me to, which is spas don't need SLAMing if they are properly maintained, to be fair, this water was about 2.5 weeks old before finding TFP. With the high CC (hovering around 1.0 right now) and losing ~90% of FC overnight with no bathers prior to the SLAM, I thought SLAM was the way to go. Even after my first large dose of bleach, I lost almost 50% in 5 hours. Am I going about this all wrong? My thought is, if there are organics in the piping or else where in the tube, just a drain and refill won't solve my problem. After a week of doing this, it has gotten better as far as the rate of FC loss.
 

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Ok. Got back from being out of town and used ahhsome and refilled. Interesting/concerning was that the tap water had maybe .2 FC and about 3CC. Oh well. It adjusted nicely after about 3 doses of dichlora
 
Analogbytes said:
Maybe a silly question, but CC in tap water, should that be concerning?
Click to expand...

Only if it's well water.

Your local water utility probably uses monochloramine (MC) for disinfection as it is considered a sanitizer at 1-2ppm concentration and has a long residual lifetime in water pipes. Utilities at one point only used FC for sanitizing water but FC has a shorter residual lifetime and is much more corrosive to water pipes and distribution equipment. It also tends to create higher levels of DBP's and THM's which the EPA strictly regulates in drinking water. In modern water treatment plants, FC is only used on the incoming water treatment side and then MC is used on the distribution side. As odd as it sounds, the use of MC for drinking water is actually safer than high concentrations of chlorine (FC).
 
Analogbytes said:
Maybe a silly question, but CC in tap water, should that be concerning?
Click to expand...
Not at all. I can not remember the specific chemistry, but many municipal water supplies are sanitizing the water with a type of chlorine compound that will show up as a CC. My water supplier here in Florida has switched about 6 months ago.

I found this online.....
With the increase in regulatory attention such as the new Initial Distribution SystemEvaluation (IDSE) that requires all public water supply systems to report critical DBPvalues, given problems meeting existing rules and now new rules, many water treatmentsystems have elected to switch to chloramines as their secondary disinfectant.Chloramination or producing chlorine by adding ammonia in the presence of freechlorine, has been used by many water treatment systems for a number of years. Theprocess of forming chloramines is well understood and consists of adding ammonia in thepresence of free chlorine in a ratio of about 3 – 5 parts free chlorine to 1 part of ammonia.
Click to expand...
 
Ok. TFP method been going well on the pool. Been cleaning filter, fixing leaks, replacing gaskets, and installing my SWG. Now to the next question. I have a wierd shaped pool that has about a 60 degree corner that is a dead spot as far as circulation. A plus is it is about the only place I have to use the net. Anyway, I am going to post pictures of where the returns are and I am wondering if anyone has suggestions as far a a "wall hugger" ish return fitting I can use.
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- - - Updated - - -

I was thinking maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IWM270O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_maV5ybMKX1GH4
 

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That looks neat but all I can "see" is it rolling the water and causing the PH to go up LOL Sorry

Now if you could get one to really push the water in that area and force it out?? That might work. I do like the idea of only having to neat in one area though.

Kim:kim:
 

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