First Time Opening in MN

[tkrunche]

Hi! I'm determined to take over pool testing this year and do it right. We're in MN so we're just getting started this. Pool cover came off and the pool looks awesome....totally clear (just some worms). I just did my first test using the Taylor K-2006(c) kit. Here's what I got:

FC - 0.4ppm
CC - I'm an idiot and forgot to test this - will do it after I'm done adding about an inch of water
pH - 7.6
TA - 180 ppm
CH - 400 ppm
CYA - 75 ppm

Also, it's freezing....45 degrees! So, my plan according to the Taylor book that came with the kit was to first adjust TA (using muriatic acid and aeration), the adjust pH, then CH. At what point do I get the Chlorine up?

In addition, we have an automatic cover and the metal on the motor/rod was totally corroded and the whole pipe/rod fell off. So, obviously our chemicals corroded that somehow (it's fixed now but the pool is only 4 years old so that was harsh). Thoughts? Thanks in advance for all your help!!

 

[Richard320]

If you intend to lower CH, do that first, because that involves replacing water with lower CH water. There is no reason to balance everything and then dump it out and start all over.

Your pH is fine right now. TA will come down of its own accord as you maintain pH. There's no reason to stress over it. It's the last thing you play with unless it's dangerously low and causing wild pH swings; wait til everything is perfect and you're bored. Also note that if it;' a brand new test kit you may have static electricity on the tip of the R-009 making it read falsely high. Wipe it with a damp towel before each drop for the next few tests.

If/when you're done draining and refilling to lower CH (vacuuming to waste will get rid of the worms and some water simultaneously) then let things mix and retest everything and post back. Realize that if you replace a certain percentage of pool water, you've lowered the CYA by the same amount. Tap water will have no CYA. It will have some CH, so you can't say that replacing 1/4 of the water will lower CH to 300.

Clear as mud, right? So start simple. Do you intend to lower CH?

 

[tkrunche]

Clear as mud indeed!

I definitely want to reduce the CH. In addition to worms, we have a pile of white precipitate in the deep end. And last year we had an issue with the white stuff throughout the year in the pool and the spill over spa. I'm guessing the CH has something to do with that. Our hose water (what we use to fill the pool) has a CH of 250. I'd really rather not empty half my pool to get the CH under control. Is that the only option?

 

[mknauss]

The only way to lower CH is by draining the higher CH water and replacing it with lower CH water. My fill water is 250 ppm CH. In 12 months, due to evaporation, my pool water CH is 750 ppm. You do not have that issue. So your 400 ppm CH can easily be managed.

You need to learn about CSI - Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) - Trouble Free Pool. With a SWCG, it is best to keep it between -0.3 and 0. Poolmath calculates and tracks CSI.
The two most important factors for CSI is pH and TA. Your TA is very high. Getting that to at or below 70 ppm will greatly enhance your ability to manage CSI. CH, water temperature, CYA, salinity, all are minor factors in the CSI calculation.

 

[tkrunche]

Funny, I just downloaded PoolMath on my phone right before you responded! Thanks! I have read a bit about CSI but will take your suggestion and read more. So, for now, I don't need to drain water and refill? Or hopefully not as much as I was thinking. Tomorrow I will vac to waste all the debris, refill with new water, and retest. Then tackle TA! Is balancing the chlorine the last step?

 

[mknauss]

First step is getting chlorine in the water to the target range for your CYA.

Draining will not gain you much. When, and if, your CH gets to 800 ppm then a drain will make it easier.