Looks like my ph came down a little but still have a ways to go! Using the pool math suggestion of adding 28 oz of muriatic acid yesterday I went from 8.2 to 8. It called for another 28oz today but I doubled up and added 56oz in hopes of pulling it down quicker since my calcium hardness is still higher than I want. I also doubled up the bleach from the suggested 44 to 88oz because my chlorine didn’t budge much either. Is it ok to double up like that under the circumstances or should I strictly stick to the pool math suggestions? Also could the fact my pump isn’t fully functioning yet be an issue with not being able to dial in my chlorine values and ph better? It’s working but at a very low speed since my panel isn’t completely hooked up yet
First test
- Thread starter GeauxTigerz
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What level of pH will that 'double' amount drop you to? If below 7, you can start damaging components of your pool system. Specifically your heater.
Your FC level will be OK to SLAM level.
Your FC level will be OK to SLAM level.
I’ll take that as I should just stick to the suggestions of pool math and be patient. I can do that. So if I set my target ph as 7.2 and it suggests 28oz of acid, should I expect that 28oz to pull it all the way down to 7.2? I know it’s an approximation but should I expect it to pull it close?
And just to clarify, this is not meant to come off as a negative view of pool math because I love it and plan to use the tfp method from now on. Just trying to set realistic expectations and understanding
And just to clarify, this is not meant to come off as a negative view of pool math because I love it and plan to use the tfp method from now on. Just trying to set realistic expectations and understanding
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
pH is an approximation when going through large swings.
Note: pH calculations depend on TA. Results are approximate and can be off significantly for large pH changes. Changing your pH will also change your TA. Users should be very mindful of their CSI when their pH is at the top or bottom of the suggested ranges.
But yes, you will get close.
For FC, it should be really close. That of course depends on how accurate your pool volume is and the actual concentration of the liquid chlorine you are using.
Note: pH calculations depend on TA. Results are approximate and can be off significantly for large pH changes. Changing your pH will also change your TA. Users should be very mindful of their CSI when their pH is at the top or bottom of the suggested ranges.
But yes, you will get close.
For FC, it should be really close. That of course depends on how accurate your pool volume is and the actual concentration of the liquid chlorine you are using.
I appreciate all your help! I’m wondering if my pool volume may be off because following the suggestions have barely moved my ph and Cl since starting. I have used several online pool calculators to come up with the volume of my pool and they’re close to 12000. Is there a more accurate way I can calculate it?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
There is a chemistry method but I would rather you not mess with that right now and just stay on course. For now, Add your acid, circulate pool really well for 30 minutes or so, and then check your pH. If not down to your Goal, add what you need, and repeat.
Be sure to test your TA every few times you add acid as you are lowering that as you add acid.
Be sure to test your TA every few times you add acid as you are lowering that as you add acid.
Ok! Thanks again for all the help! It’s truly appreciated