First test with my new kit
- Thread starter Steve Norman
- Start date
Sad to say.... drain some water.
There's no point treating it with 100 CYA. In fact, it's probably higher than 100. You should retest that using the dilution method, Step 8 Here. But that may need to wait until tomorrow because I doubt you have enough sunlight right now.
If the water is algae free, you could try maintaining it at the higher CYA. I've done it, but it was only because we were under severe water restrictions. If there's a choice, I will tell you from experience it's easier at lower CYA levels. For starters, if you find you need to keep FC above 10, your pH tests will always be suspect.,
There's no point treating it with 100 CYA. In fact, it's probably higher than 100. You should retest that using the dilution method, Step 8 Here. But that may need to wait until tomorrow because I doubt you have enough sunlight right now.
If the water is algae free, you could try maintaining it at the higher CYA. I've done it, but it was only because we were under severe water restrictions. If there's a choice, I will tell you from experience it's easier at lower CYA levels. For starters, if you find you need to keep FC above 10, your pH tests will always be suspect.,
Depends.
First you need an accurate CYA reading. The scale gets pretty tight down at that end, so what you see as 100 could easily be 120 or 130. You need to be fairly sure of the reading so you don't go draining half and find out you're still too high after refilling. That happens a lot!
You need to know what your CYA is and then pick a target. And then it's just simple arithmetic because tap water has no CYA.
Then you don't need to do anything.
I know, pretty weird if you're used to going to the pool store. You think that every time the water gets tested it needs something. But right now, you don't.
The TA range should say 50-90+. You're at 90+ so you're good. When the pH goes up and you add acid to lower it, the acid will also lower the TA a little each time.
I know, pretty weird if you're used to going to the pool store. You think that every time the water gets tested it needs something. But right now, you don't.
The TA range should say 50-90+. You're at 90+ so you're good. When the pH goes up and you add acid to lower it, the acid will also lower the TA a little each time.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You should be raising your FC each day so it is in the target range for your CYA using FC/CYA Levels. Be sure that the FC never goes below minimum.
You have the app. Enter your test results, touch FC in the Overview screen, and it will go to the page to help you determine how much liquid chlorine to add. Be sure you pool is setup in the Settings of the app.
You have the app. Enter your test results, touch FC in the Overview screen, and it will go to the page to help you determine how much liquid chlorine to add. Be sure you pool is setup in the Settings of the app.
You will have to learn that by experimentation and testing.
The only absolutes are that you don't want to dip below minimum for your CYA, and you want the pump running half an hour before you test and half an hour after you add chemicals.
So let's say you get home from work at 4:45. You want to set the pump so it comes on by 4:15 or that it goes off no earlier than 5:15. You test on day 1. It says 4. You want 5 minimum and a target of 7. So you add enough to get to 7. Day 2 you test and it's 4.5. So you make your target 7.5. Or 8, to build a little safety cushion. You'll know soon enough what your pool's appetite is like. That';s why you have your own test kit. And the thing is, if you get things dialed in and are consistent about it, you will never get algae., Never need to shock., Never need to apologize for how your pool looks.
My cya came in at 60 2x this evening. The app gives me a target of 40. So should I drain some water and refill?
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