First Test - 2 Month Old Pool

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B-Legitt

Member
Nov 5, 2022
12
Wesley Chapel, Florida
Hello All, I fired two pool stores and have now bought the TF-100 XL w/ smart stir & PH Meter.

I am hoping the signature I built tells you pool setup and equipment.

I received my kit from TFTestKits today, and tested it for the first time.

I am looking for advice as to the type of chemicals you all use, what I should do with the test results, etc. any advice is encouraged. I know I have a lot to learn.

I took a screenshot of my test results from the pool math app and attached it here.

Just in case it doesn’t post.

12K gallon in ground plaster pool
All Jandy Equipment: CS200 filter, Truclear 11K SWG, e variable pump, zodiac mx8 elite suction cleaner.61F20DB4-0F39-497B-8C55-6A7D91F19168.jpeg
 
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Did the pH test come from the meter or the drop test? I would verify the pH with the drop test and if it’s high, you lower it with muriatic acid. All the other stuff looks ok. Maybe the calcium is a bit high but that can only be fixed with water replacement.
 
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Use MA to lower the pH. That will also help lower your TA.

Why is your CH so high? Were you previously using cal hypo?

What's the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water?

Enable "Track Water Temperature" in PoolMath.
 
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pjt said:
Use MA to lower the pH. That will also help lower your TA.

Why is your CH so high? Were you previously using cal hypo?

What's the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water?

Enable "Track Water Temperature" in PoolMath.
Click to expand...
Hey PJT, thanks for taking the time to respond.
CH is high 'from what I am told' because it is a brand new pool, and the plaster is causing a lot of calcium creation. I never used cal hypo; the only things I have put in my pool is water, chlorine tabs for the first month, a bottle of pool store stabilizer, MA, NoPhos from Leslie's, Salt, and Shock Bags from the pool store. For the last 30-45 days, I have only been running my SWG and adding MA with one bag of shock before I went on a week's vacation.

I have not checked the filter water yet, and I enabled track water temp in PoolMath.

Again, I appreciate your help!
 
If your plaster is bleeding calcium into your water, that is not good. It should not do that.

More likely are the pool store 'shock' bags. They are typically CalHypo. How often did you use them?
 
Bperry said:
Did the pH test come from the meter or the drop test? I would verify the pH with the drop test and if it’s high, you lower it with muriatic acid. All the other stuff looks ok. Maybe the calcium is a bit high but that can only be fixed with water replacement.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
I did both meter and drop tests and confirmed it is high. From my research, the high PH could lead to more CH too (I think.)

How much MA can you put in the pool at once and how often can I add it? I have been adding about a gallon a week on Thursday night and then running the pump at a slow RPM for the night.
 
Not sure of your pool volume (please fill out your signature) but that much should not have raised your CH that high. I suspect the PB added quite a bit of calcium to start.

You get rain. Every chance you get drain off some water before a rain to harvest the CH free rain water.
 
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Did not see if you are tracking CSI. Your screenshot of PoolMath Home doesn't show a value for CSI. When I plugged in your values with a water temp of 70 degrees, CSI shows +1.24

Until your CH gets lowered by rainwater overflow, you will have to manage your pH around 7.4 - 7.5 to compensate.
 
mknauss said:
Not sure of your pool volume (please fill out your signature) but that much should not have raised your CH that high. I suspect the PB added quite a bit of calcium to start.

You get rain. Every chance you get drain off some water before a rain to harvest the CH free rain water.
Click to expand...
Hey, my signature has been filled out. Do you not see it?

The PB didn't add any calcium at all. The same PB built my Mom's pool simultaneously, and they have even more CH. The PB explained that they have more due to the dark color of the pebble tec they chose (gray) I went with a standard light blue.
 
an1vrsy said:
Did not see if you are tracking CSI. Your screenshot of PoolMath Home doesn't show a value for CSI. When I plugged in your values with a water temp of 70 degrees, CSI shows +1.24

Until your CH gets lowered by rainwater overflow, you will have to manage your pH around 7.4 - 7.5 to compensate.
Click to expand...
I don't know anything about CSI. My pool temp is around 82 degrees. How much MA can I poor in to get my PH lower (weekly, daily, etc)
 
B-Legitt said:
How much MA can I poor in to get my PH lower (weekly, daily, etc)
Click to expand...
If it needs it, it needs it. No sooner, no later.

Most folks get several days to a week between doses. Curing plaster drives up PH for the first 6-12 months. It'll prolly be thirsty for a while.
 
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B-Legitt said:
Hey, my signature has been filled out. Do you not see it?
Click to expand...
I see it now. I cleaned it up a bit so it shows.
Curing plaster should add little CH. Color is insignificant. If the CH is coming from the plaster, it means you are dissolving the plaster. That is not good.
 
B-Legitt said:
I don't know anything about CSI
Click to expand...

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) is a pool water chemistry value that indicates your plaster can deposit scale when over saturated (value above +0.6) or damage your plaster by dissolving the plaster or grout (value below -0.6). The CSI value you want to stay between is -0.3 and +0.3 for best results. Below or above that range will not do any damage to the pool surface if you don’t stay there very long.
 
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