First Steps to Getting Saltwater Pool Rolling

[WMBaseball9]

I know this is likely posted in a few different areas so please point me in the right direction if it saves everyone the headache. Apologies in advance. I have tried searching multiple places and don't seem to get a clear answer. Is "opening a pool" the same the for the very first time as it is if it were the 4th or 5th time?

This is my very first go at this... and want to make sure I get things off and running correctly.

We have finished construction of the saltwater aurora AGP 15x30x54 oval pool. It's mostly resin. I believe there is about 12,000 gallons in the pool. I had a water truck deliver two truckloads of water several days ago - and topped the remaining off with my well.

The water has been sitting for about 6 days untreated... my grandfather passed away recently and the situation has made things challenging to stay on top of the pool opening. I'm dedicating much of tomorrow to get things right!

Steps for Success? Please let me know I have this right:

1) Pool has been filled to about halfway on the skimmer opening.
2) Pump has been hooked up and is ready to turn on. I primed the pump today as I was going to get that on but other business pulled me away. I will power this up tomorrow and get this on.
3)Test for Alkalinity (looking for 80-120 ppm)
4) Once alkalinity is in good order- adjust PH (looking for 7.2-7.6)
5) Once PH is good - chlorine will need to be between 1 to 3 ppm
6) Then CYA - looking for 50-80ppm
7) Once the above is good to go - I start adding salt
8) When salt has been added (believe I'm looking for close to 3200ppm per the manufacturers recommendations) and up to that 3200 mark - then I can turn on the SWG

I'll take more pictures of the setup - still have a big decking job that we are working into this project as well!

Also I have downloaded the app - but my SWG is not listed?
I have a Solaxx Retro Jet RJ SWG

Thank you so much for any help and guidance

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP and sorry about your Grandfather. For your pool, I would recommend the following:
- Start the system to get water moving. Check for leaks and ensure there are no problems.
- New water has no CYA in it, so add only about 50 ppm of CYA for now. You can add more later. Use our PoolMath APP to help you with dosage amounts if needed. Use the sock method.
- Add about 3 ppm of liquid chlorine ASAP! Hopefully the water is chilly enough to slow organic growth (algae), but we'll come back to that.
- Add salt now. It must dissolve and acclimate with the water for at least 24 hours before you turn on the SWG.
- Adjust the pH anywhere between 7.2-7.8. Use muriatic acid to lower the pH as needed.
- Test, but don't try to adjust TA just yet.
- CH should be N/A for your vinyl pool.

Continue to add liquid chlorine for the first couple days until you are able to turn on the SWG and keep it working to provide the correct FC output. Always go back to the FC/CYA Levels to ensure you are maintaining the proper FC level.

If your water has begun to start getting cloudy or you see ANY algae, report back as that may change some things.

If your water changes color when you add the chlorine, you'll know why - iron from the well. Report back if that happens.

Be sure to bookmark our Pool Care Basics page. It literally has just about anything you'll need to know in that one link. Congrats on the new pool.

 

[Texas Splash]

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After soaking for about 20-30 minutes, squeeze the sock often to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[Bperry]

I know this is likely posted in a few different areas so please point me in the right direction if it saves everyone the headache. Apologies in advance. I have tried searching multiple places and don't seem to get a clear answer. Is "opening a pool" the same the for the very first time as it is if it were the 4th or 5th time?

This is my very first go at this... and want to make sure I get things off and running correctly.

We have finished construction of the saltwater aurora AGP 15x30x54 oval pool. It's mostly resin. I believe there is about 12,000 gallons in the pool. I had a water truck deliver two truckloads of water several days ago - and topped the remaining off with my well.

The water has been sitting for about 6 days untreated... my grandfather passed away recently and the situation has made things challenging to stay on top of the pool opening. I'm dedicating much of tomorrow to get things right!

Steps for Success? Please let me know I have this right:

1) Pool has been filled to about halfway on the skimmer opening.
2) Pump has been hooked up and is ready to turn on. I primed the pump today as I was going to get that on but other business pulled me away. I will power this up tomorrow and get this on.
3)Test for Alkalinity (looking for 80-120 ppm)
4) Once alkalinity is in good order- adjust PH (looking for 7.2-7.6)
5) Once PH is good - chlorine will need to be between 1 to 3 ppm
6) Then CYA - looking for 50-80ppm
7) Once the above is good to go - I start adding salt
8) When salt has been added (believe I'm looking for close to 3200ppm per the manufacturers recommendations) and up to that 3200 mark - then I can turn on the SWG

I'll take more pictures of the setup - still have a big decking job that we are working into this project as well!

Also I have downloaded the app - but my SWG is not listed?
I have a Solaxx Retro Jet RJ SWG

Thank you so much for any help and guidance

Welcome!

Quick bit of business: TFP has its own process and set of guidelines on water testing which are way better than the old school recommendations and it looks like you got the old school stuff. Take a look through the link below and make sure you understand the CHLORINE/CYA relationship.

The chlorine level you shoot for is always dependent on the CYA level. So it’s not just keep it between 1-3ppm. (That’s only when there is no stabilizer/CYA in the water.) Once there’s CYA in there, it needs to be higher to stay sanitary. There’s a chart showing you how much higher below.

One additional note that the “old school” recommendations goof on is the alkalinity recommendation of 80-120 is based on the use of trichlor pucks to chlorinate the water. Since you are using salt chlorination, you won’t have the acid from trichlor pushing your pH down and so it’s be better to let the alkalinity (TA) sit around 60ppm.

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[WMBaseball9]

Thanks so much for the responses!

So I had downloaded the Pool Math app - my issue is I don't see my SWG listed.

It's a Solaxx Retro Jet RJ. I'm assuming my calculations will be thrown if I don't have the correct system selected.

Please advise!

 

[clambert1273]

Usually if you can find one in the list that is comparable out then use that. Here is a thread that you might enjoy reading

Solaxx Retro RJ SWG way-too-early-review

When I purchased this SWG, there were very few reviews online. So I wanted to give my review, even if it’s a bit too early. I installed this on a 21 foot above ground pool. The cell screws right into the pools jet return. The manual specifically states that if it is placed anywhere else, the...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[clambert1273]

Usually if you can find one in the list that is comparable out then use that. Here is a thread that you might enjoy reading

Solaxx Retro RJ SWG way-too-early-review

When I purchased this SWG, there were very few reviews online. So I wanted to give my review, even if it’s a bit too early. I installed this on a 21 foot above ground pool. The cell screws right into the pools jet return. The manual specifically states that if it is placed anywhere else, the...

www.troublefreepool.com

Looks like they used the R5 selection

 

[Texas Splash]

Looks like the Retro Jet was designed for pools 25K in size. So on the APP, select the Reliant / Purechlor R5. That was also rated for 25K.

 

[WMBaseball9]

Awesome thanks!

 

[WMBaseball9]

Welcome to TFP and sorry about your Grandfather. For your pool, I would recommend the following:
- Start the system to get water moving. Check for leaks and ensure there are no problems.
- New water has no CYA in it, so add only about 50 ppm of CYA for now. You can add more later. Use our PoolMath APP to help you with dosage amounts if needed. Use the sock method.
- Add about 3 ppm of liquid chlorine ASAP! Hopefully the water is chilly enough to slow organic growth (algae), but we'll come back to that.
- Add salt now. It must dissolve and acclimate with the water for at least 24 hours before you turn on the SWG.
- Adjust the pH anywhere between 7.2-7.8. Use muriatic acid to lower the pH as needed.
- Test, but don't try to adjust TA just yet.
- CH should be N/A for your vinyl pool.

Continue to add liquid chlorine for the first couple days until you are able to turn on the SWG and keep it working to provide the correct FC output. Always go back to the FC/CYA Levels to ensure you are maintaining the proper FC level.

If your water has begun to start getting cloudy or you see ANY algae, report back as that may change some things.

If your water changes color when you add the chlorine, you'll know why - iron from the well. Report back if that happens.

Be sure to bookmark our Pool Care Basics page. It literally has just about anything you'll need to know in that one link. Congrats on the new pool.

So grateful to everyone that has responded thus far. This has been a bit more overwhelming than I initially thought to get things going... but I may just not be in the best headspace considering the last three/four or so weeks have required a lot of adjustment and pivoting.

Pump is on and rolling. Seems I have a very small leak that needs to be addressed near the SWG. Leak is exacerbated by placing the pump in high. On that note - can I switch between low and high speed whenever? Or should I let the pump rest for a bit before changing the setting?

My wife was able to pass me off some old pantyhose - CYA is currently sitting and dissolving (the skimmer basket and the return are very close to each other so I suspended the pantyhose in front of them. Didn't realize how long that would take to dissolve until I read it could be as much as 4-7 days! I'll keep squeezing and working it as much as I can throughout tomorrow.

I added pool chlorine that I was able to pick up from the local ace hardware. They also had pool salt so grabbed 320 lbs and threw that in as well.

The next thing I really have to master is the testing kit - any videos that help with this? Or just articles?

So far the water seems like it's responding well - no change in color from addition of chlorine.

I'll work on the leak tomorrow and get the pH right next.

Grateful,
Chris

 

[Bperry]

So grateful to everyone that has responded thus far. This has been a bit more overwhelming than I initially thought to get things going... but I may just not be in the best headspace considering the last three/four or so weeks have required a lot of adjustment and pivoting.

Pump is on and rolling. Seems I have a very small leak that needs to be addressed near the SWG. Leak is exacerbated by placing the pump in high. On that note - can I switch between low and high speed whenever? Or should I let the pump rest for a bit before changing the setting?

My wife was able to pass me off some old pantyhose - CYA is currently sitting and dissolving (the skimmer basket and the return are very close to each other so I suspended the pantyhose in front of them. Didn't realize how long that would take to dissolve until I read it could be as much as 4-7 days! I'll keep squeezing and working it as much as I can throughout tomorrow.

I added pool chlorine that I was able to pick up from the local ace hardware. They also had pool salt so grabbed 320 lbs and threw that in as well.

The next thing I really have to master is the testing kit - any videos that help with this? Or just articles?

So far the water seems like it's responding well - no change in color from addition of chlorine.

I'll work on the leak tomorrow and get the pH right next.

Grateful,
Chris

Only advice for the moment is:
1. Slow down on adding stuff. Use pool math app to estimate how much salt or CYA to add but don’t add the whole amount at once. If you overshoot, you have to drain water to reduce them. So go slow and test, add more if needed.

2. Only add liquid chlorine to the water until you get the test kit and know how to use it. Don’t add anything else.

 

[WMBaseball9]

Only advice for the moment is:
1. Slow down on adding stuff. Use pool math app to estimate how much salt or CYA to add but don’t add the whole amount at once. If you overshoot, you have to drain water to reduce them. So go slow and test, add more if needed.

2. Only add liquid chlorine to the water until you get the test kit and know how to use it. Don’t add anything else.

I did the CYA treatment using the sock method, added salt, and started chlorine per Texas Splash advice and was following his steps.

I did undershoot a bit on each item. Hopefully I made the right moves so far.

Thanks

 

[WMBaseball9]

I will update my numbers tomorrow but so far:

FC - 3
PH - 7.5 on the meter that came with the TF Pro kit (PH seems difficult to discern in the comparator block-appears higher on the block)
CYA - 50 (although not sure this is a bit challenging to test and confirm at the moment for me)
TA - 80
Salt - Appeared to be closest to 3,000 on the strip test

Is CH necessary for me to test every so often - or really doesn't matter with a vinyl pool?

Since I felt my water was in decent standing - I decided to flip on the SWG today. I also brushed the walls today and brushed the base yesterday.

It ran for a good bit but when I came back to switch it off (will be installing a timer soon).. it said that there was a system error. I didn't see a way to receive an error code or something so it's a mystery atm.

The article that was posted on the forum in regards to the same SWG that I have stated that it PUMPS out chlorine - so I was rocking on a low setting for a shorter time frame to "test the waters".

Any advice on what or why my SWG had a system failure? Is my CYA too low possibly?

Appreciate it!

 

[Texas Splash]

Is CH necessary for me to test every so often - or really doesn't matter with a vinyl pool?

Unless you have a heater that requires a minimum amount, it is not required for vinyl.

 

[Bperry]

I will update my numbers tomorrow but so far:

FC - 3
PH - 7.5 on the meter that came with the TF Pro kit (PH seems difficult to discern in the comparator block-appears higher on the block)
CYA - 50 (although not sure this is a bit challenging to test and confirm at the moment for me)
TA - 80
Salt - Appeared to be closest to 3,000 on the strip test

Is CH necessary for me to test every so often - or really doesn't matter with a vinyl pool?

Since I felt my water was in decent standing - I decided to flip on the SWG today. I also brushed the walls today and brushed the base yesterday.

It ran for a good bit but when I came back to switch it off (will be installing a timer soon).. it said that there was a system error. I didn't see a way to receive an error code or something so it's a mystery atm.

The article that was posted on the forum in regards to the same SWG that I have stated that it PUMPS out chlorine - so I was rocking on a low setting for a shorter time frame to "test the waters".

Any advice on what or why my SWG had a system failure? Is my CYA too low possibly?

Appreciate it!

The salt needs to usually be at least 3200ppm but if you used a strip test, those aren’t accurate. Get one of the taylor drop test kits for salt.

 

[clambert1273]

I will update my numbers tomorrow but so far:

FC - 3
PH - 7.5 on the meter that came with the TF Pro kit (PH seems difficult to discern in the comparator block-appears higher on the block)
CYA - 50 (although not sure this is a bit challenging to test and confirm at the moment for me)
TA - 80
Salt - Appeared to be closest to 3,000 on the strip test

Is CH necessary for me to test every so often - or really doesn't matter with a vinyl pool?

Since I felt my water was in decent standing - I decided to flip on the SWG today. I also brushed the walls today and brushed the base yesterday.

It ran for a good bit but when I came back to switch it off (will be installing a timer soon).. it said that there was a system error. I didn't see a way to receive an error code or something so it's a mystery atm.

The article that was posted on the forum in regards to the same SWG that I have stated that it PUMPS out chlorine - so I was rocking on a low setting for a shorter time frame to "test the waters".

Any advice on what or why my SWG had a system failure? Is my CYA too low possibly?

Appreciate it!

For your system error go here: Help Guides + User Guides

Pick your model & look at the help guide. I had to do that myself this weekend.

 

[WMBaseball9]

The salt needs to usually be at least 3200ppm but if you used a strip test, those aren’t accurate. Get one of the taylor drop test kits for salt.

I will check my kit and get that done. Hopefully that's all it is. Thanks.

For your system error go here: Help Guides + User Guides

Pick your model & look at the help guide. I had to do that myself this weekend.

Not sure I see my SWG listed in that guide. Is that guide specific to Circupool products? Mine is a Solaxx. Thanks for sending along the info!

 

[WMBaseball9]

New issue...

Dropped the robot in for the first time to do some cleaning - that was all good.

There was water rolling in there this morning (see photo) and always has been since I primed the filter initially... now there isn't.

Should I assume something is clogged? Do I need to start breaking down the pump?

I've been running my pump about 24/7 for about six days now on low speed (since I started this thread) - this is a brand new pool. Figured I want to keep things moving as I try to get the water correct.

 

[mknauss]

Do you have water coming out of the returns in the pool?

 

[WMBaseball9]

Do you have water coming out of the returns in the pool?

Yes water was still rolling.