First results out of balance

AltaNate

Member
Jan 27, 2024
16
Spanish Mediterranean
Pool Size
1
Recent new pool owner and getting to grips with pool chemistry to self manage using the excellent resources on here. Previous owner was using all in one pucks with trichloro, algaecide and flocculant. This resulted in very high CYA levels and chlorine off the scale. To lower CYA I’ve completed a partial (60%) drain and replacement of water. I’m stopping the use of pucks and switching to granulated non-stabilised chlorine (Bayrol Chloryte).

Todays test results:
pH 8.2
FC 3-6
TC 3-6
CYA 80
TA 160
CH 350

The pH is a little high and assume will be increased with the Chloryte. TFP CYA/FC ratio suggests higher FC levels required. However the Chloryte instructions suggest a pH 7.0 to 7.4 so thinking of getting some pH reducer which will bring down the TA. Hopefully CYA will drift lower through vac/backwash and subsequent top-ups.

Comments please - go for Chloryte or wait for the pH reducer first?

Due to low water temperature, the Chloryte use instructions have the product diluted in warm water before adding to the pool in front of returns and have the pump running. However unsure whether I should run through the filter or switch to recirculate.

All advice appreciated - thanks in advance.
 
Bayrol Chloryte is Calcium Hypochlorite Granular Shock.

It will add chlorine and calcium to your pool. The calcium will accumulate and you can eventually end up with a high calcium and CSI leading to scale in your pool.

Get your chlorine up ASAP with your CYA of 80. Don't worry about your pH.

Lower your pH whenever you get pH reducer.


 
Thanks! Will get pH reducer tomorrow.

The Chloryte usage docs states:
  • Always perform the treatment with the filtration in operation, and with the pH between 7.0 and 7.4.
  • Shock chlorination in case of problems (algae or cloudy water): add 150g of Chloryte per 10 m³ directly into the water
  • Chlorination for commissioning: add 80g of Chloryte per 10 m³
  • In case of weekly dosage: add 50g of Chloryte per 10 m³
I think I’ll move to liquid chlorine as I get more used to managing the chemicals. I wasn’t comfortable handling liquid chlorine initially and reading it can lose its strength fairly quickly in some cases.
More reading required.:geek:
 
Thanks! Will get pH reducer tomorrow.

The Chloryte usage docs states:
  • Always perform the treatment with the filtration in operation, and with the pH between 7.0 and 7.4.
  • Shock chlorination in case of problems (algae or cloudy water): add 150g of Chloryte per 10 m³ directly into the water
  • Chlorination for commissioning: add 80g of Chloryte per 10 m³
  • In case of weekly dosage: add 50g of Chloryte per 10 m³
I think I’ll move to liquid chlorine as I get more used to managing the chemicals. I wasn’t comfortable handling liquid chlorine initially and reading it can lose its strength fairly quickly in some cases.
More reading required.:geek:
No need to be afraid of liquid chlorine, its the safest option for manual chlorination, unless you wear brightly colored clothing and like splashing while your adding it.
 
@AltaNate
You need to add the fas/dpd test to your kit (taylor k-1515) so you can accurately measure fc & cc separately in target range (9-11ppm) and above (up to slam) for your cya level. As you can see from the chart 6ppm fc is bare minimum for a cya of 80. You are risking algae now.
FC/CYA Levels
IMG_9560.jpeg
The pool eats chlorine every day (on average 1-4ppm/day depending upon the season)
so you must feed it before fc falls below minimum.
Use PoolMath to calculate all additions.
Your ch is already high enough so liquid chlorine is what you need to use going forward.
Pour it slowly infront of a running return & brush the area. Its no big deal.
 
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It is better to use muriatic acid then dry acid as the pH reducer.
I’ll check what is available and if unclear will reply to ask on here.
You need to add the fas/dpd test to your kit (taylor k-1515)
Tricky to find that kit over here, but one online supplier I’ve used does sell the R-0870 and R-0871.
I assume the 9198 sample tube isn’t anything special? :unsure:
 
I’ll check what is available and if unclear will reply to ask on here.

Tricky to find that kit over here, but one online supplier I’ve used does sell the R-0870 and R-0871.
I assume the 9198 sample tube isn’t anything special? :unsure:
The 9198 tube is the same as the 4034 tube that should already be in your kit I believe.
The 9198 just comes with a white cap(which no one ever uses) so it gets a whole nother number lol.
We do recommend having a dedicated chlorine one because the dpd powder can stain the tube & you don’t want anything interfering with the other tests. But in a pinch if you need to use the same tube you can just clean it with alcohol afterwards & rinse it.
You’ll need the instructions as well
 
After searching pool supplies shops and not finding muriatic acid, bought 15% sulphuric acid. Then today found in the supermarket pH reducer : Contains Hydrochloric Acid. Concentration: 20% or 13° Bé.

However the dosage seems to be three times the volume for the sulphuric acid.

:unsure:Am I reading this right - the hydrochloric seems a better option?
 

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After searching pool supplies shops and not finding muriatic acid, bought 15% sulphuric acid. Then today found in the supermarket pH reducer : Contains Hydrochloric Acid. Concentration: 20% or 13° Bé.

However the dosage seems to be three times the volume for the sulphuric acid.

:unsure:Am I reading this right - the hydrochloric seems a better option?
Hydrochloric is a better option. Your pool already has the “chlor” molecules floating around in it so adding in some “sulph” isnt something you want. Ive heard of some people doing it though. One of rhe sciency folks would have to comment on the fine details.
 
After searching pool supplies shops and not finding muriatic acid, bought 15% sulphuric acid.

Read Acid - Further Reading

You absolutely should not use sulfuric acid in a plaster pool with an SWG.

Sulfuric acid use can cause calcium sulfate scale. Sulfates are bad for plaster and SWGs.

Sulfuric acid adds sulfates to your water. It is not recommended. Sulfates build up and will destroy metal and concrete.
 
I might try to return it unopened.
Strange really as the store is the pool supplies place in the area, but the supermarket is where you find what you need!

Tiled pool and no SWG.
Sadly they sell alot of stuff at the pool store that’s not really good for your pool 😩
 
Read Acid - Further Reading

You absolutely should not use sulfuric acid in a plaster pool with an SWG.

Sulfuric acid use can cause calcium sulfate scale. Sulfates are bad for plaster and SWGs.

Sulfuric acid adds sulfates to your water. It is not recommended. Sulfates build up and will destroy metal and concrete.
But sometimes you have to weight your choices and they have cost. For me warranty terms mandate the use of sulfuric acid 30% with SWG. These terms are by the distributor
 
But sometimes you have to weight your choices and they have cost. For me warranty terms mandate the use of sulfuric acid 30% with SWG. These terms are by the distributor
I think the sulfuric acid can do more damage then your warranty is worth.
 
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Yes, brand and model.
I am from Europe. And this is where they installed the injection for sulfuric acid pump. (I have disabled it).
For some reason this works. However the warranty is for 2 years only, so I guess they dont care

1716740219080.png
 

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