Finally switching to salt - seeking advice on the install of the SWG

[Wolverines]

I'm finally making the switch to salt. I tried to do the tabs and liquid chlorine but it's time to make life easier for myself. I am always open to opinions on the best SWG to use in my situation and could really use some advice on the best location to install the SWG. I don't have any automation systems, just a ~5-year Pentair VS Pump (which has its own digital timer but is hooked up to a regular timer as well) and an ancient heater that runs when needed (rarely), and a functional DE filter.

A local company wanted to install an iChlor 30, which everyone has said is too small for my pool. Another company I tried last year basically ghosted me when they couldn't get the SWG so I'm going to DIY this before I open the pool. I'm currently thinking of a Circupool RJ-60 plus (only $20 more than the RJJ-45 plus) or a Core-55 (only $20 more than the Core-35. The Core is $200 more than the RJ so I just need to figure out which one is better for my setup, but both can more than handle my size pool. I'm also open to other models if anyone thinks I should be considering them.

My big question is how best to redo the plumbing after the heater to incorporate a new SWG. That includes replacing the 3 old ball valves with 3 new jandy valves (similar to what I did last summer on the section before the pump). I will be removing the Pool Frog (never seemed to work the way it should) leaving me with a blank slate after the heater, albeit with not a lot of space or options. My initial thought is a 45 out of the heater leading to a 45 down at the lower distribution section. That straight run would need to incorporate a check valve and the SWG, assuming I can find the room for both in there. I'd likely need to install the flow switch before the heater where I have more space for it. I'm open to any and all suggestions here. The pool is still closed so I can do all this in the coming weeks before I open it for the season.
Thanks!

 

[HermanTX]

One idea is to come straight out horizontally from the heater and go the distance until you take a 90 straight down vertically into the manifold.
You can put the SWCG on the horizontal or the vertical part and the flow switch on the other or visa-versa. The CircuPool SWCG can be place vertically because it has a separate flow switch.
There is no need for a check valve when using a SWCG.
I would go with the RJ-60 Plus (use the $20 upgrade from the RJ-45 Plus as you stated).

On the return manifold - where does the lone pipe to the right go? And just for knowledge, where does the 4 pipes to the left go?

 

[Jimrahbe]

W,

You don't want the SWCG too close to the heater output.

I'd cut the current pipe coming out of the heater and rotate it up so that it points to the left in your pic.

Then down and back to the right, where I would put the cell, and then connect into the current return manifold.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Wolverines]

Thank you both for the suggestions. I'll try to incorporate them into some mockup options and will share them here. If I go with the RJ-60 plus I can put the unit on one of the wood posts, which keeps it all close to the wiring.

To answer the question on the return manifold, the pipe on the right with the ball valve goes to a waterfall. The other 2 ball valves go to a bench area (each side can be opened/closed). The remaining 2 pipes are the return ports on opposite sides of the pool. The whole configuration is not the prettiest, but it's what I inherited. I replaced the entire suction side manifold last year with the new jandy valves and I'll replace the entire return side manifold when I add the SWG.

 

[HermanTX]

To answer the question on the return manifold, the pipe on the right with the ball valve goes to a waterfall. The other 2 ball valves go to a bench area (each side can be opened/closed). The remaining 2 pipes are the return ports on opposite sides of the pool. The whole configuration is not the prettiest, but it's what I inherited. I replaced the entire suction side manifold last year with the new jandy valves and I'll replace the entire return side manifold when I add the SWG.

Thanks for clarifying. Replacing the 3 balls valves with the Jandy 2 way diverter valves will be great and match to your suction side. The pool returns will stay open so you always have flow to the pool.

 

[Berger82]

I'm finally making the switch to salt. I tried to do the tabs and liquid chlorine but it's time to make life easier for myself. I am always open to opinions on the best SWG to use in my situation and could really use some advice on the best location to install the SWG. I don't have any automation systems, just a ~5-year Pentair VS Pump (which has its own digital timer but is hooked up to a regular timer as well) and an ancient heater that runs when needed (rarely), and a functional DE filter.

A local company wanted to install an iChlor 30, which everyone has said is too small for my pool. Another company I tried last year basically ghosted me when they couldn't get the SWG so I'm going to DIY this before I open the pool. I'm currently thinking of a Circupool RJ-60 plus (only $20 more than the RJJ-45 plus) or a Core-55 (only $20 more than the Core-35. The Core is $200 more than the RJ so I just need to figure out which one is better for my setup, but both can more than handle my size pool. I'm also open to other models if anyone thinks I should be considering them.

My big question is how best to redo the plumbing after the heater to incorporate a new SWG. That includes replacing the 3 old ball valves with 3 new jandy valves (similar to what I did last summer on the section before the pump). I will be removing the Pool Frog (never seemed to work the way it should) leaving me with a blank slate after the heater, albeit with not a lot of space or options. My initial thought is a 45 out of the heater leading to a 45 down at the lower distribution section. That straight run would need to incorporate a check valve and the SWG, assuming I can find the room for both in there. I'd likely need to install the flow switch before the heater where I have more space for it. I'm open to any and all suggestions here. The pool is still closed so I can do all this in the coming weeks before I open it for the season.
Thanks!


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Go with the vertical install kit...All you need is ~10". I installed where my in line chlorinator was. The couplings are left over from that, not part of the SWG install.

 

[Wolverines]

I have the RJ60 and plan to get it installed this week. I still need to balance all the chemicals, but I'm close. The first step after that is the plumbing, then I'll get to the wiring. I went through the various options suggested and have a few questions as to which is the best option.

• Doing the vertical install kit like Berger82 suggested is possible. It would result in coming out of the heater and going down, then going back up, and then back down again before hitting the manifold. Would that result in too many unnecessary 90s restricting water flow (5 by my count)?
• Going left out of the heater is similar. I would have to work around the control knob on the heater, which is possible, but it also adds a bunch of 90s (4 by my count). Would that restrict water flow?
• Coming straight out of the heater and then straight down into the manifold would have only 1 90, but would that be not enough pipe out of the heater before hitting the salt cell?
• In all scenarios, I have the ability to put the flow valve before the heater as there is a decently long stretch of straight pipe before it goes to the heater.

A few pictures are below to show examples. Pic 1 is where I could put the flow valve, which is just before the heater. I could really use some guidance on the layout before I cut the pipe out. I will be redoing the manifold after the salt cell with new jandy style valves. Thanks again in advance for the guidance!

 

[Texas Splash]

Looks like pic #2 is your best option. You can't use pic #1 because the SWG can't go before the heater. In pic #2, you should have plenty of room for a vertical install once you cut out that manifold and (I assume) remove that old Frog dispenser. With all that room and a new manifold/valves, you could probably even install it horizontally, but it's just a matter of personal preference. Either way should work just fine,

 

[Wolverines]

Thanks. Pic #1 was meant to show where I could potentially put the flow valve (before the heater) so it has at least 12" before and 6" after in a straight run. I was worried about putting the flow valve directly after the heater and not leaving enough distance between the heater and the 90-degree elbow going down and into the salt generator (pics 2 and 3), although that's probably not an issue if they allow for the vertical installs (like shown in the vertical install kit).
You are correct that the old Frog dispenser would go. There isn't enough room to have the salt cell horizontal between the heater and the manifold, not without some major reconfiguring of the manifold.

 

[jgofnj]

W,

You don't want the SWCG too close to the heater output.

I'd cut the current pipe coming out of the heater and rotate it up so that it points to the left in your pic.

Then down and back to the right, where I would put the cell, and then connect into the current return manifold.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Jim,

Is this a concern because of the heat coming off the heater itself (being physically to close) or because the water coming out of the heater will be too hot for the cell?

 

[Wolverines]

Sharing an update. The salt system is up and operational. I wasn't as 'neat' as I would like to have been on some of the glue, but it's working just fine and no one goes back there but me on occasion. The only thing left for me to do is figure out the timer situation. It's all wired into the mechanical timer but I realized I stopped using that timer when the Pentair pump was installed because the Pentair pump has its own digital timer. So if I use the mechanical timer it resets the 'clock' on the digital timer and throws off the pump cycle. I'm sure there's a solution and I'll do some searching for it. For now, I turn the salt cell on each morning and off each night.

 

[mknauss]

Move the pump wiring at the timer from the Load side to the Line side of the timer. The pump will stay powered all the time.

 

[HermanTX]

Do as @mknauss said for the Pump wiring. Leave the SWCG on the Load side. Then you have to sync the mechanical timer with the pump timer. For safety, set the SWCG to turn on 30 mins. after the pump starts and turn off 30 mins before the pump turns off.

Also if you are so inclined, since your pump will have constant power, is to run it 24 hrs and just turn the SWCG on/off as needed using the mechanical timer. Just remember that the flow switch is a secondary safety.

Overall your pad looks good and you saved a ton of $$$$. Great Work.

 

[JamesR]

Isn’t the side of the cell with the wiring considered the “inlet”?
If so, your cell is installed backwards.
Additionally, secure the wiring on the flow switch by cable tie at the switch as a strain relief so the wires don’t get snapped off.

 

[Wolverines]

Thank you guys! I will get the load/line squared away this weekend and do the 30 minutes before/after as suggested so it can all run on its own. The wiring is secured, just not in the picture I shared (nothing was hooked up at that stage). That said it could be a little better and I will use some zip ties to do so. And from everything I know about these cells the water can flow in either direction, so I should be fine there.

 

[dfwnoob]

From the RJ owners manual:

When positioning the Cell, you can consider the side of the cell with the cord the "inlet" side.

Whether that truly matters, I'm not sure, but they did mention it.

 

[JamesR]

……And from everything I know about these cells the water can flow in either direction, so I should be fine there.

If not, it’s got threaded unions. You could simply remove it flip it over and reinstall. No need to cut and re-glue anything.
Nice job on the valve replacement also. That looks much better than original ball valves.