Filter hose alternative

Psuarmy

Member
May 23, 2020
23
Pittsburgh
Pool Size
8600
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have a 6 foot hose for my pool filter inlet. It is only about 1.5 feet from the filter to the pump. I am having hight pool filter pressure issues (16 psi with new de, and noticeable return pressure drop at 20 psi). It was suggested to shorten this hose and the return line. Return line is good. I was thinking of pvc elbow and a short piece of vinyl hose to connect. Thoughts anyone?

p.s. takes about 5 days to go to 18 psi and 10 to go to 20 psi
 

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takes about 5 days to go to 18 psi and 10 to go to 20 psi
Oh Lordy do I ever feel your pain. Yet another DE filter pressure issue. Most interesting. What does your water typically look like - clear or cloudy? I ask cause I also experience fairly rapid pressure increases. As to the plumbing, I may be wrong but I suspect that the longer the plumbing, since the pump has to push the water farther, the harder it will have to work, and so a shorter, more direct path would probably be better. I base this on the fact that after I had a heater installed - which required a significantly longer run of PVC piping than was the case before there was a heater - my starting pressure is always several psi higher than it was before the heater and extra piping was put in. It's frustrating since once I get a bit over 20, I get into a 'no flow' situation on the heater. So a starting pressure of 13-14 as opposed to around 10 (as it was before the heater), simply means less of a range to work with before having to backwash again. Add to that the problem of shorter filter cycles to begin with for whatever reason and it makes for far more work than I'd prefer to be doing. It's not so much the work itself, and one I get at it I'm fine, but the nerve-wracking part is the never-ending vigilance as to always checking where the gauge is at. I love the swimming season, but in one way it's such a relief once it's over and the pool is finally covered and I don't have to look at that gauge again for the next 7 months.
 
Oh Lordy do I ever feel your pain. Yet another DE filter pressure issue. Most interesting. What does your water typically look like - clear or cloudy? I ask cause I also experience fairly rapid pressure increases. As to the plumbing, I may be wrong but I suspect that the longer the plumbing, since the pump has to push the water farther, the harder it will have to work, and so a shorter, more direct path would probably be better. I base this on the fact that after I had a heater installed - which required a significantly longer run of PVC piping than was the case before there was a heater - my starting pressure is always several psi higher than it was before the heater and extra piping was put in. It's frustrating since once I get a bit over 20, I get into a 'no flow' situation on the heater. So a starting pressure of 13-14 as opposed to around 10 (as it was before the heater), simply means less of a range to work with before having to backwash again. Add to that the problem of shorter filter cycles to begin with for whatever reason and it makes for far more work than I'd prefer to be doing. It's not so much the work itself, and one I get at it I'm fine, but the nerve-wracking part is the never-ending vigilance as to always checking where the gauge is at. I love the swimming season, but in one way it's such a relief once it's over and the pool is finally covered and I don't have to look at that gauge again for the next 7 months.
Water is Always crystal clear. I cleaned my filter tonight. I took top off and hosed fingers, they were dirty. I turned pump on with no DE and had a pressure of 14. I weighed out the DE this time instead of relying on scoop size. I put about 3 lb, 14 oz in. Just under the recommended 4 lbs. Pressure stayed at 14 psi. I will take the small win.

Tomorrow I am going to take off the 6 foot hose and go to lowes. I will put a 90 elbow after the shutoff and buy a length of hose to connect to the pump. Should have 4 feet of length or so. Maybe I can save another psi or two.

What I have started doing is bumping the filter either every morning or every other day right before I go to work. That way when the pump kicks on it is good. I don't have to worry too much about pressure that way.

I have no clue how people are starting with such low pressures 10 psi or less. The last thing I can think of is my pool came with a return that has a light built into it. Maybe it is restricted more the a typical pool return nozzle. But the nozzle that came with the kit is a pretty small hole as well, so I don't know.
 
Let us know if that works. My (ancient) filter doesn't even have a bump handle. I USED to start at 8 psi for years when I first got the pool. Man, those were the days.....Well, at least I'm not the only one dealing with filter pressure issues.
I replaced my 6 foot hose with a 3 foot hose and there was no drop in pressure. Sorry.
 
What type of pump do you have? Single speed? Dual speed? Variable? If single speed then your psi is what it is. There are many here with dual or variable speed pumps and they run as low as they can to get all their items to properly function (ie heater,swcg) by running lower speeds the pressure isnt as high as if it were a singlr speed system.
 
What type of pump do you have? Single speed? Dual speed? Variable? If single speed then your psi is what it is. There are many here with dual or variable speed pumps and they run as low as they can to get all their items to properly function (ie heater,swcg) by running lower speeds the pressure isnt as high as if it were a singlr speed system.
Single speed 1.5 HP Hayward pump

I have gotten the pressure down to 14-15 psi range with a hard plumbed return and cleaning of the filter fingers.

I will probably go with a dual speed pump once this pump goes bad. I don't know when is best to run pump, but I run mine from 1 to 7 PM since that is our prime swim times and I filter the water as we swim. Motor gets hot to the touch. so I would guess a slower speed would be better for the motor.
 
You mentioned in another thread you've got an EC40 DE filter.
You stated in this thread, that after adding just under 4lbs of DE your filter pressure didn't change from the 'clean & empty' filter reading.
The DE pre-coating should increase your pressure, as now the Flex-tubes (fingers) are coated with the filter media (DE). I have the same filter (with a 1 hp pump) and it was not uncommon for me to have a "pre-coat pressure" (Hayward's term for a clean filter, freshly coated with clean DE) of ~12-14psi. Based on Hayward's manual, if your clean starting pressure is 14 psi... you shouldn't have to consider regenerating (bumping) the filter until the pressure reaches 21-24 psi.

From my own experience... I have a similar pool volume as yourself and typically run the filter 24/7 (yes, the motor gets hot). I've had that pump/motor for over 10 yrs.
I only have to bump my filter once or twice a season. (Granted I don't have a big load on the system, 2 adults are primarily all that use the pool).
Additionally, Hayward puts a 'Flow Controller' SPX1055 (orifice) on the inlet of the filter which constricts the opening to around ½", doubtful your return light is .

A question:
At the end of the season, do you 'clean' the fingers? First using dish soap & water (they can get coated with body oil, sunblock, organic matter) and then a 1:1 solution of Muriatic acid & water (as recommended by Hayward). If not, the Flex-tubes (fingers) can begin blocking off with deposits. This can lead to high starting pressures and decreased time needed between regenerations.

Just some food for thought.
Respectfully,
 
You mentioned in another thread you've got an EC40 DE filter.
You stated in this thread, that after adding just under 4lbs of DE your filter pressure didn't change from the 'clean & empty' filter reading.
The DE pre-coating should increase your pressure, as now the Flex-tubes (fingers) are coated with the filter media (DE). I have the same filter (with a 1 hp pump) and it was not uncommon for me to have a "pre-coat pressure" (Hayward's term for a clean filter, freshly coated with clean DE) of ~12-14psi. Based on Hayward's manual, if your clean starting pressure is 14 psi... you shouldn't have to consider regenerating (bumping) the filter until the pressure reaches 21-24 psi.

From my own experience... I have a similar pool volume as yourself and typically run the filter 24/7 (yes, the motor gets hot). I've had that pump/motor for over 10 yrs.
I only have to bump my filter once or twice a season. (Granted I don't have a big load on the system, 2 adults are primarily all that use the pool).
Additionally, Hayward puts a 'Flow Controller' SPX1055 (orifice) on the inlet of the filter which constricts the opening to around ½", doubtful your return light is .

A question:
At the end of the season, do you 'clean' the fingers? First using dish soap & water (they can get coated with body oil, sunblock, organic matter) and then a 1:1 solution of Muriatic acid & water (as recommended by Hayward). If not, the Flex-tubes (fingers) can begin blocking off with deposits. This can lead to high starting pressures and decreased time needed between regenerations.

Just some food for thought.
Respectfully,
Last change of DE included me hosing off the fingers, I was right at 14PSI and after adding the DE it didn't go to 15. In the last week the pressure has risen to 17 psi without bumping it. But I will bump it tomorrow morning before the pump kicks on.

When my pressure hits about 20 there is a very noticeable drop on return water coming back into the pool. I didn't clean with muriatic acid last year. I just cleaned the fingers at the end of season. Next time I need to change the DE in the filter I am going to do a full clean and see where that gets me.

We live in a high pollen area and at least 3 of us swim 5 days a week and usually one or two of those days are upped to 5-6 kids. Suntan lotion everywhere. so it is probably clogging up and needs a full clean.

Thank you for the advise.
 

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Best of luck with it. Do you use a skimmer sock? I find with pollen (and Cottonwood trees) that they are an ENORMOUS help in prolonging the time in between filter cleanouts.
Respectfully,
I will look into skimmer socks. Thanks.
In the spring everything is yellow with pollen. This is our grill every year.

also my neighbors are going to have their house repointed so there is going to be a massive amount of mortar dust. I was thinking of getting a super cheap winter cover for the days they are working, but do you think a skimmer sock might work?
 

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If the mortar dust made it to the skimmer you might be alright. However, I suspect it may be heavy enough to sink before it ever gets to your skimmer and would use at least a solar cover while they're working. You could probably get a cheap tarp from a hardware store and clip it to the top rail to keep out most of it.
Best of luck with it.
Respectfully,
 
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