Filling pool after replaster, high water table

[stewmca]

I’m in the process of getting our pool replastered and the articles and advice here on TFP have been great. The plan is to follow the recommendation for waiting 6 hours before filling and to use the bicarb startup. The pool has been stripped and waiting for the plaster crew next week. My problem is that we have a high water table, there is about 2 feet of water in the deep end of the 6 foot depth pool, with water still coming in from the weep holes even the one in the shallow end.

I expected that once the weep holes are plugged, they would keep the bottom dry while replastering by using a pump at the main drain to pump out water that seeps in from the hydrostatic valve. Without the valve working, I’m concerned that there is risk of floating the pool especially if I wait 6 hours to start filling it.

Unfortunately, the plaster company is telling me that they want to close the hydrostatic valve to keep the surface dry, and that I need to fill the pool immediately due to the risk of floating and because it’s necessary to prevent hairline cracks in the plaster (despite previously agreeing to 6 hours). The plaster is smooth white commercial quartz from Finest Finish.

Given the situation, I’m thinking it may be less risky to start filling the pool immediately. They may agree to let me use the pump, a guy is coming out Monday to check it out. And there is the option of waiting for the water table to go down during the summer.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

 

[PoolGate]

I never heard of waiting 6 hours my pool was filled the instant the plaster guy finished. In fact, in your case I'd consider trucking water in and having it ready to go.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

@onBalance recommends waiting 6 hours after new plaster before starting to fill with water.

Many pools don't wait and do just fine.

Given your situation I would just get the water filling the pool ASAP.

 

[stewmca]

Thanks, that makes sense especially since we had some rain yesterday and the water level is up another six inches.

 

[onBalance]

The seriousness of the high water table problem would cause me to strongly consider waiting for the water table to go down. And the weep holes are a tremendous challenge to patch and keep dry while plastering. Perhaps by June it could be done?

 

[stewmca]

Thanks onBalance. Other than missing out on some usage, I have no problem with waiting so I'll check with the plaster company. We're entering the dry season here in northern CA so the water table should start dropping soon. Is there a water table level where I can be comfortable waiting 6 hours to fill or should I fill immediately as long as it's still above the bottom of the pool?

 

[onBalance]

The pool shell hasn't shifted or raised so far, so that's good. I hope that removing two feet of water doesn't have any negative effect. I would think that the plaster company will drain the pool at least a day before plastering, just to get the bottom (or bowl) of the pool dry and patch the weep-holes. So, if the pool has been completely empty for 24 hours, waiting just one or two extra hours to starting filling with water shouldn't matter much and would be far better for the plaster than filling immediately.
The only thing I am sure about regarding a water table is that if the water level is below the entire pool, then that is good.

 

[stewmca]

OK got it thanks. I'm still thinking if they drain it and fill the weep holes, we need to relieve the pressure with a hydrostatic valve if the water table is still above the bottom by a more than a few inches. There are 3 weep holes, maybe waiting until the water table is at least below the one in the middle and shallow end. Thanks again.

 

[stewmca]

Status: we’ve delayed my replastering due to the water table, and they installed a new uncapped pressure relief tube. I have a pump halfway between the deep and shallow ends, leaving 2 feet of water in the deep end, and water is still coming in at about 1.5 gallons per minute. The weep hole in the shallow end is dry.

I read that a way to deal with this is to run a short flexible pipe from the relief tube to a container in the deep end that has a sump pump. So you keep the pool bottom dry while still relieving the pressure, and with the flexible tubing you can move the container while plastering. Has anyone done this? Is there any way to determine if the relief tube is offsetting enough water pressure?

 

[MAPR-Austin]

AMT Gorman-Rupp Electric Diaphragm Pump - 337E-96, 3", 58 GPM, Electric, Single-Phase

AMT Gorman-Rupp Electric Diaphragm Pump - 337E-96, 3", 58 GPM, Electric, Single-Phase 3 inch diaphragm trash pump with discharge capacity of 3480 gallons per hour 1.5 HP single-phase electric motor Solid handling to 1.625 inches Sand cast aluminum h

www.absolutewaterpumps.com

We use these pumps every time we have a pool empty. Suction hose to 1.5" standpipe with a male threaded fitting, screwed into to the hydrostatic relief port. Exhaust away and downhill from the pool. We leave it running until ready to fill.

They will generate a considerable amount of suction. I have had times where it is difficult to pull the suction hose off of the standpipe, and when it comes off the air being pulled in sounds like a jet.

 

[stewmca]

Thanks, great solution. Just saw your reply, notifications don’t seem to be working. In the meantime, they delayed the replaster to June 21, water table is under 3 feet after another rain.