Feeling a little sheepish.....

[Burfcr]

I’m well into my 7th year of pool ownership and to be 100% honest, I had no idea what I was doing before in terms of pool chemistry (it’s all changed this year after joining TFP!). Up to now, it would just take a sample in to the pool store, have them print out a piece of paper with some stuff on it and then do what they tell me. It seemed to work for me as I’ve never turned the pool green.

I knew that there was a concept of free chlorine, combined chlorine, cyanuric acid, etc, etc - but never really “understood” how all of these different chemicals worked. No more!!

I’ve downloaded the TFP app and am taking control of my water chemistry. Here are the latest results (needs a little work, but at least I now understand what needs to be done).

FC: 0.2
CC: 0.1
pH: 7.7
TA: 60
CH: 236
CYA: 38
Temp: 71
CSI: -0.29

 

[Richard320]

I only see the need for more chlorine. The CYA gets rounded up to 40. That part I understand. I'm curious how you got 236 CH, though.

As the water warms up -- I hope it does! -- the CSI will climb. There's no reason to get excited and start raising CH and/or TA if those results are anywhere close to reality.

 

[Burfcr]

Quick question on calcium hardness. I have been keeping it in the range of 200-300 ppm and the TFP app is recommending 250-350 ppm. My current reading is 210 ppm and I’m wondering if I should be bumping it up??

View attachment 81715

Second question is on phosphates. I’ve always had high phosphates in the pool and the LPS was always recommending taking care of it. I’ve been doing my own testing now (and am not checking phosphates), but my last LPS test from a few weeks back showed levels over 2,000 ppb. Should I be restesting and taking care of it?

 

[mknauss]

Input your test results into PoolMath and look at your CSI. Keep it in the range of 0.6 to -0.6 to protect your concrete.

Phosphates are not an issue. No need to test for or treat for.

 

[Burfcr]

Thanks. Current CSI is -0.26, so all good?

 

[Texas Splash]

A CH of 210 is just 40 off the pace, so you're not too far. You could bump it slightly, or if your local water is hard let that do it for you as you top it off each day. Another option is to chlorinate a few times with cal-hypo if you wish.

As for phosphates, it's nothing more than algae food. With a TFP-chlorinated pool that is algae-free, it doesn't matter what your phosphate count it. We generally ignore it. If you want to but a $50 bottle at the LPS, that's your prerogative, but generally we'll say just leave it alone. Save the $$ for more reagents.

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Definitely get that FC up right away. Much too low.

 

[Leebo]

I’ve gotta ask, where are those test results from?

 

[aussieta]

start using the 10ml test sample your reagents will last twice as long
Extended Test Kit Directions

 

[Burfcr]

My pool? Haha... kidding. It’s a screen shot of the TFP iPad application.

 

[mknauss]

The question is -- what test kit are you using to test your pool water chemistry?

 

[Burfcr]

ColorQ Pro-7

 

[mknauss]

Thank you.

Be aware that it has been reported that test kit is not accurate when testing CH.

It would be highly suggested to get a proper test kit at some time.

Take care.