Feedback on replumbing plan - upsize to 2", switch to 45s

TexasDogs

Active member
May 11, 2021
34
San Antonio, TX
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I never did get to the bottom of my suction side Leak. I'm about resolved to go ahead and just chop off the plumbing basically at ground level and replace everything upstream of the pump (including 3 way valve).

I'm thinking of up sizing to 2" right from the ground. I can't imagine that's a bad idea, but is it a good idea? Or negligible? Also, I'll be replumbing the pressure side after the valve because my Polaris booster pump inlet needs to come from pool return only. Same question here - is it worthwhile to upsize to 2"?

Also, I'd like to get a longer straight run prior to the pump inlet, so I was thinking of using 3 45s instead of a 90 to back the valve away from the pump (don't have much real estate to just move the pump back). Does that seem like a good idea? Tried to illustrate my idea, but had to do it at ground level to keep a free hand to take the pic - hopefully it makes sense what I'm going for. Would adding an otherwise unnecessary 45 be worthwhile to extend my straight run after the valve? Either way, I'm getting rid of the pointless offset dogleg thing they did with 2 45s in the current plumbing.
 

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Last edited:
Switching to 45's or sweep 90's won't make an appreciable difference in flow or efficiency - given the low pressures in pool plumbing.

If all your underground plumbing is less than 2", changing the above ground plumbing to 2" may make a very slight difference.

Post a few pics of your present equipment pad and tell us what you intend to do with it.
Ah- I see you were editing your post as I was posting.
 
Switching to 45's or sweep 90's won't make an appreciable difference in flow or efficiency - given the low pressures in pool plumbing.

If all your underground plumbing is less than 2", changing the above ground plumbing to 2" may make a very slight difference.

Post a few pics of your present equipment pad and tell us what you intend to do with it.
Ah- I see you were editing your post as I was posting.
I'm really failing at the Internet today! Just updated with more info after a premature post.
 
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If you can rule out suction side leaks in the above ground plumbing, your best bang for the buck may be to add a heater bypass. This would allow running the pump at a lower rpm which still satisfying the SWG flow switch - and save some on electricity as well.
 
I just did similar a few weeks ago, but all mine was 1.5 everywhere. I made sure everything on the equipment side of the Jandy valves was 2". I assumed any higher flow gain from that could easily be handled by the splits to the inground piping (ie - 2 1.5 in ground legs had more volume capacity than the 2" feeding it). In mine, I was able to dial down the pump speed noticeably, to what seemed like the same effect in circulation. Yours has what looks to be a few 1.5 segments on the equipment side- maybe the output from the pump to the filter?
So you may see some gain, but not as much as I did. But yes, the urge to clean up the Rube Goldberg maze is a good reason by itself.
 
I just did similar a few weeks ago, but all mine was 1.5 everywhere. I made sure everything on the equipment side of the Jandy valves was 2". I assumed any higher flow gain from that could easily be handled by the splits to the inground piping (ie - 2 1.5 in ground legs had more volume capacity than the 2" feeding it). In mine, I was able to dial down the pump speed noticeably, to what seemed like the same effect in circulation. Yours has what looks to be a few 1.5 segments on the equipment side- maybe the output from the pump to the filter?
So you may see some gain, but not as much as I did. But yes, the urge to clean up the Rube Goldberg maze is a good reason by itself.
It's all 2 inch between suction side and pressure side diverter valves. Probably not worth up sizing outside of that zone?

Any thoughts on my idea to use 3 45s to create more space to increase the straight run into the pump? I know adding another 45 to the mix is a bit of negative yardage, but maybe worth it to get closer to meeting the ideal straight run into the pump?
 
Any thoughts on my idea to use 3 45s to create more space to increase the straight run into the pump? I know adding another 45 to the mix is a bit of negative yardage, but maybe worth it to get closer to meeting the ideal straight run into the pump?
Chances are you won't see much if any appreciable benefit.
Don't focus too much on 'ideal'.
 
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