FC loss due to no CYA or algae?

I get 150 when I do it at home. 6 drops turn it.
You want to add drops, until the color does not change with a drop...then subtract the last drop.

If you confirm low CH, then I'd raise your CH to 200. Can you also test your fill water for CH? In LV, your fill will likely be high CH...and 200 is an ok place to start.
 
The problem I’m having is that after adding the 5 drops of R-0011L, the sample doesn’t exactly turn red, it’s more of a purple, so it’s hard to tell when it changes to blue.
 
The CH test for us is impacted by metals (primarily iron).
See Calcium Hardness

"The sample may turn purple during the test, or go to blue for a moment and then turn back to red/pink. This is called a “fading endpoint” and is caused by interference from metal ions. If this happens, do the test again, but this time add five drops of R-0012 before adding any R-0010 or R-0011L. Remember to count the initial five drops in the total.
In extreme cases, a fading endpoint may occur even when adding five drops of R-0012 at the start. If that happens, mix pool water with an equal quantity of distilled water, test that, and then multiply the result by two."

Your fill water CH is 250 ppm.
 
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Don’t worry about CH right now, it’s not important. Focus on CYA and FC. Your CH will come up naturally. The RO lowered it which is good. Your pool isn’t going to turn into a black hole just because the CH is a little off.

Add the dry stabilizer and watch the FC demand. Then float pucks while you’re away. Take care of CH later.
 
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