FC level in SWG pool

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cainsconundrum

cainsconundrum

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Jun 20, 2017
15
Harrells NC
I've read that if 5 ppm of FC is maintained in the SWG pool then slamming may not be required. I'm currently at 4.4 FC and 4.8 TC.
Should I increase my generator output to get 5 or slam and then raise it gradually?
Thanks for any advice,my grandchildren will be in tomorrow and through the weekend.. Want to be on the safe side:cool:
 
You really need your own test kit. Pool store testing is almost always bad and the one they get wrong the most is CYA.

Are you having a problem? Cloudy water, see algae, slimy walls?
 
No sir, crystal clear so far. Walls are slick but thought it was the newness of the fiberglass. I've got a test kit but don't trust my skill set yet, thought the pool store "computer check" would be 100% accurate. I've ordered a FAS/DPT kit since I have trouble distinguishing gradual color changes/shades. Salt test kit arrived today, will check that in the am.
 
Even you K-2005 kit has a CYA test. Please let us know what you get.

We will pretend the pool store is close for the time being. Bring your FC up to the level found in the SWG section of the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. The minimum you should have is FC 3, but to keep it there all day target 5.

Once you get the FAS/DPD kit we want to conduct an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This will tell us if the was are slick because it new fiberglass or if there are organics in the water.
 
CC,

Sounds to me like you are confusing our SLAM process with what most non-TFP pool owners do on a weekly basis .. They "shock" their pool by dumping in Pool Store bags of Shock...

Our SLAM process SLAM Process is used to fix pools that have turned green or cloudy... If you follow the TFP process you will most likely never have to "Shock" or SLAM your pool again.

I have never had to SLAM my pool and have been using the TFP process for three years. I also NEVER add Pool Store shock to my pool.. ever.. There is just no reason to perform the weekly "Shock" ritual as long as you keep your FC and CYA levels at the recommended values.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Jim R you are correct in that assumption! I thought slam and shock were the same, this site is great if you spend some time reading posts and the resources available.
Been using my test kit as well, really not as bad as I thought, brought back memories of chemistry sets... Here is my findings:
FC 5.4
CC.2
PH 7.8
TA 110
CH 240
CYA 100
Salt 4000
Pool math says my TA is high for a fiberglass pool, and the CYA. Need to drain some water and refill to lower the salt a bit too.
Going to check my FC loss in the AM to see if things are growing... Considering adding Borate as well but need to get the strips to test first.
Thank you, I feel much more confident in maintaining a safe healthy pool now!
God Bless the USA!
 

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100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. While the full instructions are in the Pool School, here is the short version. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. If still at a 100 you will need to dilute more. The problem is that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the rage of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute. Here is a great chart by JamesW to explain dilution rates and what you multiply the results by to get an approximation of your CYA level.

Pool water......Tap or distilled water.........Multiply result by

....1...................1................................2
....1...................2................................3
....1...................4................................5

Hold off on the borates. We only recommend them if the pH is unstable and after you get your TA & pH where you want it to be. Additionally, do you have dogs that drink from the pool? Borates can be hazardous to them so caution is needed in that area.

It appears you are using 25 mL sample for 0.2 ppm accuracy. You can go ahead and use 10 mL sample for 0.5 ppm accuracy. It will save you reagents and is close enough for us.
 
I've gotten my TA down to 90 with a PH of 7.4, with your help I've been able to get a good reading on CYA, however 180 is not what I was hoping for. Time to start exchanging water?
The sad thing is the pool store said it was on 69 and more stabilizer was needed!
Thank you,
 
How much water can removed without potential damage to the UG pool, 8" at a time or more? I'm guessing the important thing is to monitor the PH and FC during the turn over and even help the SWG with bleach as needed? Once the CYA is right then balance the remaining?

Advice would be great.
 
With fiberglass and gunite pools, the biggest danger to drain/refill is "floating" the pool out of the ground. And empty pool literally becomes a boat floating on the underground water and pushes out of the ground. If you have a high water table then this is a real possibility.

If you are unsure of the water table in the area you may need to contact the local health department (they generally know the water table due to septic system installations), the building department or foundation/basement contractors who deal with it regularly.
 
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