False salt readings
- Thread starter pjdnkral
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
There is no salt sensor on the Hayward Aquarite. It is a calculated value based on volts and amps of a new cell.
There is no salt sensor on the Hayward Aquarite. It is a calculated value based on volts and amps of a new cell.
I may be new to this forum but not to the Goldline saltwater generator system. I have an electronic tester and I double check it with Leslie Pool store. My cell will generate chlorine until the ASR drops below 2800 then I have to set it back to the actual salt reading in the pool. I'm looking for someone with technical knowledge of how to bypass the ASR sensor just like the temperature sensor can be bypassed with a resistor/variable.
I reset the instant salt reading and immediately locked the reading when the relay clicked at 3800ppm. It will generate for a while, then over time the salt reading drops and the check salt light comes on and the salt generator stops producing. Anyone have any ideas?
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To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
You can change the cell type to a smaller cell to make it work longer.
What cell do you have?
What cell is selected in settings?
www.troublefreepool.com
You can change the cell type to a smaller cell to make it work longer.
What cell do you have?
What cell is selected in settings?
Basic AquaRite Diagnostics.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Okay, then I need to know how to bypass the voltage/amps which Im pretty sure is going to be a capacitor or resistor. I need to know which components are controlling this value.Welcome to TFP.
There is no salt sensor on the Hayward Aquarite. It is a calculated value based on volts and amps of a new cell.
T-15 cell works just fine as long as the ASR is in the operating range. But it is dropping below operation range (2600) every couple days and I have to recalibrate. I need someone with technical knowledge on how to bypass ASR so I can manually set it I have to.To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
You can change the cell type to a smaller cell to make it work longer.
What cell do you have?
What cell is selected in settings?
Basic AquaRite Diagnostics.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
T-15 cell generates chlorine when ASR is maintained. I reset the instant salt reading and immediately locked the reading when the relay clicked at 3800ppm. It will generate for a while, then over time the salt reading drops and the check salt light comes on and the salt generator stops producing. Anyone have any ideas?To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
You can change the cell type to a smaller cell to make it work longer.
What cell do you have?
What cell is selected in settings?
Basic AquaRite Diagnostics.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
I have been testing with digital tester and Leslie Pools for several years. Readings are very close to each time. Actual reading is just around 3200.
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I think your cell in is the process of dying, ora t least one side of the plates has prematurely worn faster than the other side. Rather than resetting every day, it might be better to change the t-cell setting to T-9, then t-5, then t-3 (if your firmware is r1.50 or higher) so salt readings still fall within Hayward's desired range. Of course,you will have to either increase the duty cycle and/or the pump run time to offset the reduction in hourly chlorine output.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
Sir...Like I said, T-15 (R1.40) cell works fine and continues to generate the proper levels of chlorine. Why on earth would I replace it. Are you insinuating there is a sensor in the salt cell that calculates ASR and this is the reason why the reading drops below 1900/below, when actual is 3200.
You have one of the most knowledgeable persons (JamesW) in here on Hayward cells and you won't provide the requested information.
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings. 31.4 / 0
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings. 26.7 / 1.85
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings. 26.5 / 2.63
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers? *3A0806-1076658* (R1.40)
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it? 3200 (electronic tester & Leslie's Pool)
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Is this volts and amps?
Most likely the cell is dying.
The salinity is calculated from the performance of the cell.
Poor cell performance = low salinity reading.
What are the first 7 of the cell serial number?
- May 3, 2007
- 18,067
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
No but you can spoof it:
Failing T-15 SWG Cell Experiment
I am currently on my 3rd T-15 SWG cell for an 18 year old pool. The 1st cell lasted about 9 years and the 2nd about 4 years and just passed year 4 on the 3rd cell. I thought it might be useful to document this cell's behavior as it is going through the last stages of useful life. As time goes...
www.troublefreepool.com
As others have pointed out, your cell is failing. That does not mean it isn't producing any chlorine but it is producing less.
A T-15 should have amp levels 2x higher than that (~6 amps). In the link I posted above, the cell that was failing was less than half that an yours is even lower than that so it is even further gone than the one I had.
As a T-15 ages, the amp level decreases because the plate surfaces become less conductive due to corrosion. This in turn makes the SWG unit display lower salt levels than the actual salt level. It also reduces the amount of chlorine produced because chlorine production is proportional to the current level.
First number is voltage / second is amps
The cell works just like it should to maintain proper chlorine level. I read on here where others have the same issue after replacing with new cell.
I cant read or see a cell serial number.
I want to bypass the calculated reading and set it to fixed value just like you can do with the temperature sensor.
I need someone with technical knowledge of this unit not a diagnostics solution so to speak.
- May 3, 2007
- 18,067
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I am not sure why you are opposed to troubleshooting the cell because it is not operating within normal conditions.
Have you tested the cell at a pool store? Many pool stores have the test equipment to test cell itself. Do not rule this out until you have had the cell actually tested.
Also, there is a solder joint on the Hayward SWG boards that typically goes bad and when it does, it creates higher resistance than normal which in turn reduces the current through the cell and the displayed salt is lower than normal. So this is another area that could be looked into to solve this issue.
Also, do you understand how a Salt/TDS meter works? It measures the water conductivity (µS/cm from volts, amps, water temperature) and then calculates the salt level using a conversion factor (e.g. 0.5).
www.instrumentchoice.com.au
It is exactly the same way the T-15 & control unit determines salt level. However, the cell plates are used as the sensors and not separate probes. So it is not like the temperature sensor which can be replaced with another temperature sensor or a resistor. The SWG plates are part of the salt measurement.
The unit uses shunt resistors to measure the current via a voltage across the shunt resistor. Theoretically, one could modify the board so that the unit shows higher amps and higher salt level that it would normally by increasing the resistance of the shunt resistor. However, this is not without issues. First, it would require modification of the board and second it would reduce both the current and voltage in the cell itself although the SWG display may show higher current & salt levels. The effect would be a reduction in CL production of the cell.
Another option is that you could put a high powered resistor across the power leads to the SWG cell which would increase the current draw from the SWG controller and it should then read higher amps and higher salt level as well.
But both of these solutions are not really solutions but are putting a band aid on a bleeding artery. You really need to find out what the problem is first or you could possibly cause more damage to the unit and in the end cost more to repair.
Have you tested the cell at a pool store? Many pool stores have the test equipment to test cell itself. Do not rule this out until you have had the cell actually tested.
Also, there is a solder joint on the Hayward SWG boards that typically goes bad and when it does, it creates higher resistance than normal which in turn reduces the current through the cell and the displayed salt is lower than normal. So this is another area that could be looked into to solve this issue.
Also, do you understand how a Salt/TDS meter works? It measures the water conductivity (µS/cm from volts, amps, water temperature) and then calculates the salt level using a conversion factor (e.g. 0.5).
How does a salinity meter work?
It is exactly the same way the T-15 & control unit determines salt level. However, the cell plates are used as the sensors and not separate probes. So it is not like the temperature sensor which can be replaced with another temperature sensor or a resistor. The SWG plates are part of the salt measurement.
The unit uses shunt resistors to measure the current via a voltage across the shunt resistor. Theoretically, one could modify the board so that the unit shows higher amps and higher salt level that it would normally by increasing the resistance of the shunt resistor. However, this is not without issues. First, it would require modification of the board and second it would reduce both the current and voltage in the cell itself although the SWG display may show higher current & salt levels. The effect would be a reduction in CL production of the cell.
Another option is that you could put a high powered resistor across the power leads to the SWG cell which would increase the current draw from the SWG controller and it should then read higher amps and higher salt level as well.
But both of these solutions are not really solutions but are putting a band aid on a bleeding artery. You really need to find out what the problem is first or you could possibly cause more damage to the unit and in the end cost more to repair.
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