Failed Flow Sensor

[jkayca]

Hi, I have an Aquarite chlorinator that has a failed flow sensor. I have a new one on order but in the meantime, is there a way to fool the motherboard into thinking there's flow?
Note the chlorinator and pump are on the same timer so no issue with pumping not running and chlorinator active.

Thx

 

[ogdento]

the flow sensor is just an on/off switch, so you "could" use a jumper to short the two leads (or add a toggle switch)

 

[1poolman1]

Hi, I have an Aquarite chlorinator that has a failed flow sensor. I have a new one on order but in the meantime, is there a way to fool the motherboard into thinking there's flow?
Note the chlorinator and pump are on the same timer so no issue with pumping not running and chlorinator active.

Thx

Can it be done? Yes. Is it safe? marginally as long as the pump is actually moving water when on.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Yes, you can. Mine has been bypassed for over a year. I make sure the cell runs one half hour less than beginning and ending of the pump cycle.

 

[jkayca]

Thanks for the responses. I took a spare phone cable I had an snipped off the end, then soldered the two wires together. It didn't work. I may have something else going on. Red no flow LED blinks for a while and then goes off then the green generating LED comes on for a couple of seconds and then goes out. Note that the green power LED never comes on.

 

[ogdento]

you probably checked this, but are you using the two center conductors on your phone cable? if so... and strangely, this is the 3rd time I've posted this link today!... check the aquarite troubleshooting guide in the TFP wiki:

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jkayca]

Definitely soldered the two middle wires. Thanks for the link. I've used it before when I had a bad thermistor. Super helpful.

Interesting note. I left the old flow sensor connected at the end of the day yesterday, pump on, salt system powered on but the black slider switch in the off position. Looked at it this morning, all LEDs off but the green power LED. Turned off the system plugged my hacked cable back in and turned system back on. Same thing I saw yesterday. Blinking no flow LED and nothing else. I beginning to think I have a lose connection somewhere.

I hate how the daughter board connects to the main board. Should have been a proper cable not those high rise connector things.

 

[ogdento]

Hey, since the hacked sensor cable isn't working, I wonder if you original is actually ok? did you check to see if there's continuity on the original sensor when you have flow, and none when you don't? If so, check the rj-11 jack for corroded contacts

I agree about those long pins... a proper cable must have put the whole thing over budget!

 

[jkayca]

Well I got things working using the hackey flow sensor cable. Definitely a flakey connection between the main and daughter boards. I took the whole thing out and probed around. That is connector is definitely subpar.

I couldn't see anything wrong with the thermistor but I replaced it anyway since I had the board out. Two years since the last replacement. Seem to be all they can do. I got a 10-pack last time so I had the part.

Reseated everything and made sure the daughter board was sitting correct and verified connection is being made via a multimeter.

However I could not seat the faceplate back on without shifting the daughter board. Poorly lined up cutouts, screw locations etc. Left it off for now. I'll have to go back and fix this but the whole white box is closed up tight and the unit is running.