Erroneous low-salt panel reading

[kristenerika]

I've got a Hayward T-Cell-15 with a Hayward Pro Logic panel. Both are original to the pool (which is five years old).

I've been getting intermittent "low salt" readings on the panel but chlorine production has seemed normal so far this season so I figured that the readings were the result of uneven distribution of salt in the water after rain storms (the alerts went away within a few hours each time they came up).

Yesterday I started seeing a message that says "chlorinator off - test salt level" so I added 40 pounds of salt. I also cleaned the salt cell by soaking it with a 4:1 solution of water and muriatic acid. This morning the message was still there so I used my drop test to test the salt level and it's 4000 ppm (ugh -- that will teach me to believe the panel rather than testing first!).

What does this mean? Is my salt cell failing? Is there a problem with my panel? What are my next steps? Bleach is still in semi-short supply around here so I want to act fast to solve the issue before I have a mess on my hands.

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

tftestkits.net

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

If the performance percentage of the cell is less than 0.75, you are probably due for a new cell.

 

[kristenerika]

I have a T-Cell-15. It was installed by the pool builder at the same time as the panel and has not been troublesome for the past five years, so I assume that the T-cell size is set correctly in settings.

I am using the Taylor salt test and am confident in the 4000 ppm result -- I repeated it twice.

Your instructions for the ProLogic aren't working for me. I navigate to the diagnostic menu and I get the following screens:

• Chlorinator Off Test Salt Level
• Instant Salt Chlorinator Off
• Flow Switch Flow
• Cell Temp Sensor 85°F
• Water Sensor 85°F
• Air Sensor 90°F
• Solar Sensor 102°F
• Main Software Revision 4.46
• Display Software Revision 3.12

I do not see salinity readings or an option for reversing polarity.

T-Cell-15: 3E14323
ProLogic: 3L15097

 

[mas985]

With an age of 5 years, I would suspect a failing cell. Have it tested at a pool store.

 

[JamesW]

Where you get to the diagnostic readings screen, press the + button.

 

[kristenerika]

Have what tested at a pool store? The cell? In order to detach the cell from the panel I have to open the panel which I've never done before.

 

[JamesW]

The cell just unplugs from the socket. No need to remove the front panel.

Go to the screen that says chlorinator off and press the + button.

Get the new readings and then press the + button again and get the new readings.

 

[kristenerika]

JamesW, see the attached image.

The instant reading shows 2200 ppm. With my actual test result of 4000, this yields a performance percentage of 0.55.

 

[JamesW]

The screen is showing 400 ppm for the instant salinity on one polarity.

If the instant salinity on the other polarity is 2,200, I think that we can assume that the cell is dead.

 

[kristenerika]

Ok, that's what I figured.

Dashing to order a new one on Amazon in time for Monday delivery. Am I better off buying the Hayward or are any of the knock-offs any good? I'm seeing one called "Blue Works" for $200 less (I am happy to spend the money to get reliable equipment but don't want to pay extra for OEM unless it's necessary).

 

[JamesW]

Some people are happy with the aftermarket cells and some people are disappointed.

My opinion is to go with Hayward for the most consistent quality.

The first number in the serial number indicates the warranty period.

Try to find a cell with a 3 year warranty vs. a 1 year warranty.