Equipment pad setup - Water features automation

srikantheee84

Well-known member
Sep 15, 2021
117
Austin, TX
Pool Size
29000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I’m constructing a new pool. It has spa, one bubbler, 2 sheer descents and a slide. I would like know what is best way to operate them independently and together if required. I got four actuators for this setup. Appreciate any thoughts on this setup.
 
84,

I really doubt that you have 4 usable actuator connections... You most likely have two connections that switch between the pool and spa modes, called the Intake and Return actuators. These move in a fixed way, and you cannot make them do anything else.

That leaves A and B that are user programable... So you really only have two..

Tell us what kind of automation you have. Some are expandable and some or not.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
84,

I really doubt that you have 4 usable actuator connections... You most likely have two connections that switch between the pool and spa modes, called the Intake and Return actuators. These move in a fixed way, and you cannot make them do anything else.

That leaves A and B that are user programable... So you really only have two..

Tell us what kind of automation you have. Some are expandable and some or not.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Make sense. So then I only have two usable ones. Intellicenter i10. Please let me know if I may need more actuators.

I don’t mind having both sheers connected together. I think might even look better.
 
@Jimrahbe what do you think about this setup ? I forgot to mention I do have separate jet pump for spa as well.
 

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Copied and modified Jandy valve plumbing schematics. Any thoughts
 

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84,

With the IntelliCenter, I believe that you can expand the number of valves drivers (connection ports).

That said, I don't have an intelliCenter, so not sure exactly what you need to buy.

The problem with your diagram is that to run the bubbler and waterfalls or your slide means that your pool returns are not on.

In the big picture, you don't really want to shut off the pool returns for long periods of time. Pools returns help the skimmers ... skim, by making the water move around the pool.

If this were my system, I'd want to expand the IntelliCenter and have a 2-way valve that controls each water feature/output.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
84,

With the IntelliCenter, I believe that you can expand the number of valves drivers (connection ports).

That said, I don't have an intelliCenter, so not sure exactly what you need to buy.

The problem with your diagram is that to run the bubbler and waterfalls or your slide means that your pool returns are not on.

In the big picture, you don't really want to shut off the pool returns for long periods of time. Pools returns help the skimmers ... skim, by making the water move around the pool.

If this were my system, I'd want to expand the IntelliCenter and have a 2-way valve that controls each water feature/output.

Thanks,

Jim R.
@Jimrahbe Did you get chance to look at my last diagram?
 
84,

It is not that what you have won't work, it is that I like controlling each individual water feature.

I would use a manifold that have a line to the slide with a 2-way valve, a line to the waterfall with a 2-way valve, and a line to the bubbler with a 2-way valve.

The idea being that the valves could all be off or all on or any combination... you just can't do that with a 3-way valve.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
@Jimrahbe What do you think about this manifold setup ?
 

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84,

I like the basic plan as you have better control over each input and output pipe.

It costs a little more for the extra valves, but in the big picture, you have much better control.

In some cases, you must have a 3-way valve, but when you can, it is better to use 2-way valves.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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84,

I like the basic plan as you have better control over each input and output pipe.

It costs a little more for the extra valves, but in the big picture, you have much better control.

In some cases, you must have a 3-way valve, but when you can, it is better to use 2-way valves.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thank you. What do you think about overall setup. Is there any modifications required ? Few things I found was missing bypass heater and missing long run in-front salt cell.
 
What do y’all think about this equipment pad setup. Any thoughts or changes needed ? Thanks!
 

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What do y’all think about this equipment pad setup. Any thoughts or changes needed ? Thanks!

You have more valves then a nuclear power plant.

I think 3 way valves used as a T stacked above pipes with 2-way valves are wasteful and just add complexity and confusion to understanding and adjusting the flows. A T could have been used instead of the 3-way valves.

Your SWG cell does not have anywhere close to the recommended 12 inches of straight pipe leading into the cell.

I don't know why you have the tablet chlorinator with a SWG. That area looks overly complicated.

full


I can't comment further because no pipes are labeled
 
You have more valves then a nuclear power plant.

I think 3 way valves used as a T stacked above pipes with 2-way valves are wasteful and just add complexity and confusion to understanding and adjusting the flows. A T could have been used instead of the 3-way valves.

Your SWG cell does not have anywhere close to the recommended 12 inches of straight pipe leading into the cell.

I don't know why you have the tablet chlorinator with a SWG. That area looks overly complicated.

full


I can't comment further because no pipes are labeled
Three way valve added on top two way valve is for water feature automation. One thing missing is actuators along with them. Primarily it is going to be salt water pool, I added tablet chlorinator as a backup (pls let me know if it is bad idea or no use for it). I agree SWG along tablet chlorinator area looks complicated (Attached picture)
 

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Last edited:
I hope you never need to remove the covers from your heater. The plumber/installer did not do you any favors there. Should have access on all 4 sides for maintainability.

No reason to keep the tab feeder with the SWCG. If you have a reason to use tabs, you can get an inexpensive floater to drop them in. You won't use them very often, if at all. I'm going on season #3 with my pool and I don't even know what a chlorine tab looks like.

--Jeff
 
I also did not see a heater bypass installed. Surprising with all the individual control added, that that was not considered.

--Jeff
 
I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in but I would look into it and see if you need a check valve between the SWG and the chlorinator. I am trying to understand what the check valve is for that you have circled in red.
 
Use of the tab chlorinator will destroy the SWG due to acidic water back flow from the Trichlor. Whether or not you have a check valve between them. CVs rarely seal 100% over time.

I have been in my heater many times and agree positioned against the wall and surrounded on 2 sides by pipes will give you problems eventually. Heaters need cleaning and maintenance.

The SWG is not positioned for easy access and maintenance either.
 
You have more valves then a nuclear power plant.

I think 3 way valves used as a T stacked above pipes with 2-way valves are wasteful and just add complexity and confusion to understanding and adjusting the flows. A T could have been used instead of the 3-way valves.

Your SWG cell does not have anywhere close to the recommended 12 inches of straight pipe leading into the cell.

I don't know why you have the tablet chlorinator with a SWG. That area looks overly complicated.

full


I can't comment further because no pipes are labeled
@Newdude @wireform
care to chime in here?
 
care to chime in here

About the SWG pipe length ? I don't believe it matters. It didn't for me at least but my plumbing was dirt simple. This does in fact look like someone had 157 valves that they couldn't return for credit. But there will be lots of control, so there is that.

I'm with allen that i wouldn't use the tab feeder. If you can even get a replacement cell these days, they are stupid expensive. @srikantheee84 should buy a dummy cell for $35 (?) and pop it in if the tabs are ever needed. My SWG ran weeks by itself when dialed in. Like 4-6 weeks. But the feeder is there now and can stay empty. (y)

I also agree that OP was not considered in the least for SWG or heater maintenance.
 

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