i'll dump some chlorine in and I have brand new reagants. i'm heading to walmart
I'm only seeing yellow bagsKim
My SWG has been producing chlorine for almost two months.
Try to stay away from Leslies. Go to the Walmart over on Elliott and pick up 2-4 gallons of MA (Kem-Tek) and 2-4 gallons of liquid chlorine (Pool Essentials).
You will also need CYA (stabilizer) - Walmart has this too.... Clorox Pool&Spa Stabilizer 4 lb. bag. Your pool will need 6-8 pounds, so get 2 bags.
Use PoolMath to see how much CYA to add. Add about 75% of what it calls for - use the sock method (do NOT just dump into the pool or skimmer) use the sock method. Test the CYA 24 hours AFTER it is ALL dissolved.
I checked stock online at that particular Walmart and they have all of the above in stock (per their website).
You can also get the salt there or at HD or Lowes. You will probably need 8-9 forty pound bags of salt (but test the full pool for salt before adding any - it will be low because of the refill).
I've used both of these - in the BLUE bag - Morton's Pure and Natural water softener crystals or Diamond Crystal Solar Naturals salt crystals for water softeners. Both are solar salt in crystal form and don't have any of the additives of the yellow bag stuff.
It takes a little more time to dissolve - continue to brush until it's all dissolved. But it's cheaper than the "pool salt" at the pool store.
Do NOT dump all the salt in at one time. Using PoolMath, shoot for about 2800-3000 ppm of salt. Put in 50% to 60% of what PoolMath calls for. Brush to dissolve, let the pump run for 24 hours continuously and retest. After retesting, add whatever PoolMath calls for to get to target (2800-300 ppm), brush to dissolve, let pump run continuously for 24 more hours and test again. That should get you in the ball park.
I'm trying to get you to sneak up on the recommended CYA and salt levels as you don't want to overshoot.
As you are aware - Testing is paramount. Make the time to do it. Take your time. Rushing or not making time to properly test has caused you issues in the past.
Making the time to test, testing correctly and adjusting your chemicals more frequently will actually save you time in the long run.
Huge +1. A ounce of prevention whoops a pound of cure and whatnot.Stay on it!
ah, yes, I was thinking later what u meant about adjusting CH. I definitely know better. I'm emptying my pool after 2 years due to high CH. I'd love to get a soft water system but would have to run a new line to my auto fill. It may be worth it but will have to dig up a lot of stuff that would've been much easier when we put in the pool. It it wasn't for having that issue I'd probably jump at the soft water system. However my friend's blew and they were up wee hours of the morning trying to get their h20 off as water was gushing everywhere. everything requires maintenance but I do remember u saying not to get the RV one. U said x 3-4 yrs. I changed h20 2 years ago. maybe I didn't do my CH right. that is a hard one but I recall doing it 3 xs and then feeling confident and u said to change h20. I wonder if it's cuz I'm so close to the mtn. the pool was a hard dig and tons of caliche. thxDo NOT add any calcium product.
Your starting CH after refill will be about 200-250 or a bit higher.
With our high evaporation rate, your CH will increase due to adding fill water.
In one year, at least your entire pool volume evaporate - but the CH is left behind.
So next year this time (April 2024) your CH will be whatever it is now, plus about 250 (at least).
This is why many have to drain their pool every 3-4 years to manage the CH (calcium hardness)
Many of us have installed water softeners and plumbed them to our autofill. This helps mitigate the CH rise issue due to our hard water. My CH has risen on 50-ish ppm in 3 years.
For you, with everything else you have going, I would only recommend a whole house water softener. It still needs attention to keep the brine tank full of watersoftener salt. A smaller RV type unit wouldn't work well for you as it needs to be manually regenerated. And you don't have time for that. But I believe we already discussed that last year or the year before.![]()
I just brushed the pool after adding 2.5 bags of shock and didn't see any algae visibly. It's always hard with pebble. there was 1 pebble I questioned, but no, not really,. the pool does look slightly green from a distance and it looks that way to me when it gets algae. I tested this morn and it seemed to say .5 FC which seems pretty logical considering h20 from the tap is probably around that and I added half a gallon or whatever someone told me to yesterday, so I hoped I'd be fine was temps did reach low 80s yesterday, I think.. before yesterday it was pretty chilly. with no CYA in the pool maybe it all burnt off. Where would the iron be coming from? I dumped 3 gallons of chlorine in this morning when I left just in case and came back to fc of 2. it was a sunny day so maybe it's cuz I don't have cya in the pool. also, we did not keep the pool running continuosly. I didn't get that message til later (although I know better). I guess I can't be sure if there's algae, unless I do an overnight test.Are you sure you have algae? Is it present on the walls etc? If the pool water is slightly green, that could be iron.
That device adds copper. Turns blonde hair and fingernails green. Will stain the pool surface eventually.