emerfency hotwiring of Intellichlor flow switch

Last June, my Intelichlor IC40 was giving a low temp alert in error. A new aftermarket flow switch solved the problem, but only briefly. I got good help from this forum that determined that the temp sensor on the new switch was no good too. Rather than roll the dice again, I followed your advice and just unhooked the temp sensor wires. That worked great until today.

I got a no-flow light today and when i opened up the pipes I discovered that the swing arm had ripped where it connects at the top of the flow sensor. I have ordered a new one, but it will not arrive for a few days. Is there a way to hot-wire the unit to trick it into thinkimg there is flow so it will run? I know this is a bad idea long term, but it will only be that way until the new flow switch comes in the mail. I assume this can be accomplished by connecting the black and red wires coming out of the IC40, but want to check here first.

Also, less than one year seems like a short life for the flow switch. Does anyone know of a longer-lasting aftermarket part brand? I'd spring for the genuine Pentair part, but the original lasted less than 2 years and is >2x the aftermarket part price.

I've seen Goldline flow switches that look the same and cost less, but I can't be sure the hole size and threads would match up.

Thanks!
 
Hayward pro series sand filter and old time pump pot with 1 hp single speed motor. 2" lines. It runs at about 15 psi on the pump gauge. I completely replaced the sand last year along with the stand pipe and intakes. I had to replace the mixing valve and noticed the stand pipe had corroded and a piece was broken off.

It was the temp sensor on the Pentair part that went out and not the bendy arm that measures flow. I threw it out when I replaced it. I would have saved it if I knew then you could run it with the temp sensor disconnected.
 
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