EDIT - Pool Bonding Question - See Comment # 6

amoses

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 21, 2009
192
Keene, Texas
Pool Size
13500
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool Edge-40
I purchased an auroroa 24' round pool and replacing the one I have, it should be here next week, pool is scheduled to be installed on Nov. 11, digging it down 27 inches. I am relocating pump and filter tp behind my shed so am running new wiring for that (run through pipe underground). I bought a new 2 speed Hayward Matrix pump (I see that many on here use that one) and it is a 110V model. I also bought an RJ-45 SWCG and that is set up from the factory as 240V, but can be modified to 110V. My questions are: Should I run Wiring for 240 to the SWG? or run wiring for 110V and then modify the RJ-45 (have to remove a jumper or something) to work on 110V? If I go all 110, should I put the SWCG and the pump on separate breakers? 20 Amp breakers? The pump has a 6 foot pigtail on it already, so I was just going to run the wiring to my shed and mount a GFI outlet (could plug other stuff in then also if I wanted) and plug it in. I assumed (yes, I know what assume means ;)) that the RJ-45 would just plug in to a 110V outlet also, but was wrong about that. its a hard wired unit and 240 from the factory, but adjustable to 110V. Any advice on this would be appreciated, as I would like to try and get all this done and ready before the install on the 11th of Nov.
 
So you and I will basically have the same set-up (pump and SWG), and that's what I did. Just kept everything 110V on separate GFCI outlets, Installed the 110V jumper in the Control Module, added a plug to the cord, and plugged it in. Simple stuff. In my case, my pump runs 24/7 as I like to catch surface debris, so I don't worry about the SWG being on with no water movement. If you elect to run your pump on a timer, then might just need to think of how the SWG will be powered off when the pump is off (i.e. shared Intermatic timer.

 
So you and I will basically have the same set-up (pump and SWG), and that's what I did. Just kept everything 110V on separate GFCI outlets, Installed the 110V jumper in the Control Module, added a plug to the cord, and plugged it in. Simple stuff. In my case, my pump runs 24/7 as I like to catch surface debris, so I don't worry about the SWG being on with no water movement. If you elect to run your pump on a timer, then might just need to think of how the SWG will be powered off when the pump is off (i.e. shared Intermatic timer.

Good info, thank you, Neighbor. Do you have the 2 GFCI oputlets on separate Breakers? or the same breaker? and is it a 20 Amp Breaker? so, in other words, I guess wihat I am am trying to determine is if the SWCG and the pump are running at the same time will it blow the breaker if they are both on the same breaker? I am not sure how much amperage these things will pull.
 
My pump and SWG are on separate outlets/circuits - 20 AMP GFCI breakers. But the SWG pulls such low amps you might get-by if they were on the same circuit. Initially I ran a separate (new) line for the pump because I thought I might go to a 220V motor down the road, so I wanted the option for later. But still kept it 110V for now.
 
My pump and SWG are on separate outlets/circuits - 20 AMP GFCI breakers. But the SWG pulls such low amps you might get-by if they were on the same circuit. Initially I ran a separate (new) line for the pump because I thought I might go to a 220V motor down the road, so I wanted the option for later. But still kept it 110V for now.
That's exactly what I was planning to do - run extra wiring (or at least a rope to pull wires through) so that if/when this pump goes out and I have to go with a VS pump that is 220, then I would already have the wiring there. I dont currently have wiring to this area where the wiring is going, so I have to dig a trench, install the pvc, and pull the wires. Might as well put it all in there while its easier. I am not sure what wiring to get, not an electrician by any means, but I can talk to some electricians about it.

Thanks for the info, I looked at your other thread and that is great help also. I have room in my breaker box for 2 breakers, so maybe I will just go ahead and put them on separate circuits.
 
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I have had a 24' round ABG since 2008, and I never had it bonded? Should I have? The reason it is coming to question is that I am replacing that pool now, and installing an SWCG and new 24' ABG (sunk half way in the ground). When reading about the install of the SWCG, it talks about having to "Bond" the SWCG to the "Pool Bonding System" with an 8 Gauge copper wire. So, how do I install a "pool bonding system"? My pump and filter are placed remote from my pool behind a shed on the edge of my property. What all has to be "bonded"? and how? I was just going to run an 8 gauge to somewhere on the pump. Is that good enough? But the pump is not grounded except thought the ground in the outlet it is plugged into. wow.... a pool bonding system, lol. Any help would be appreciated.
 
My pump and SWG are on separate outlets/circuits - 20 AMP GFCI breakers. But the SWG pulls such low amps you might get-by if they were on the same circuit. Initially I ran a separate (new) line for the pump because I thought I might go to a 220V motor down the road, so I wanted the option for later. But still kept it 110V for now.
I installed the jumpers, should be ready to go.

When I was reading the install manual it mentioned that "when using a VS or multi spd pump on low speed setting, or for general circumstances where flow is less than adequate, the cell must be inverted in order to ensure adequate flow and effieicnt chlorine production." And it shows a picture of the cell mounted upside down. I noticed you didnt do that. Any issues? you run yours on low speed 24/7, right? Do you think I should mount it upside down like that? look at your manual on page 15 and you will see what I mean.
 
Aaron,

VS pumps can run at very low flow rates, so inverting the cell might be necessary if you had a VS pump. A two speed pump runs at 1750 RPM and then should be plenty so that you don't have to mount it upside down.. You can if you want, but I doubt you will need to do it..

Here is an article on bonding... I am not up on bonding an above ground pool, but it is something that you should do,,,

See if this link works... Search

Does your pool have a light?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Aaron,

VS pumps can run at very low flow rates, so inverting the cell might be necessary if you had a VS pump. A two speed pump runs at 1750 RPM and then should be plenty so that you don't have to mount it upside down.. You can if you want, but I doubt you will need to do it..

Here is an article on bonding... I am not up on bonding an above ground pool, but it is something that you should do,,,

See if this link works... Search

Does your pool have a light?

Thanks,

Jim R.
thanks for the info on the pump. The link did not take me to an article. can you post it differently? My pool does not currently have a light.
 

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So... I need to run an 8 gauge bare copper wire all the way around my pool, bury it 6 inches. Then I need to run a wire from my SWCG unit, to the Hayward pump, and then to the loop. then from a skimmer metal piec down to the loop. Wow..... I never did any of this to my last pool. I have also read that you attach 4 uprights to the loop. My pool is an aurora and is all resin, even the walls. Do I still need to do that?
 
With a truly all resin pool the pool does not need to be bonded but the water, deck, and equipment need to be bonded together.
 
How would you bond a pool that has steel walls and resin everything else? Attach a wire to one of the bolts on the skimmer panel, maybe?
 
How would you bond a pool that has steel walls and resin everything else? Attach a wire to one of the bolts on the skimmer panel, maybe?

AGP pool manufactuers ignore the bonding requirement and don't make it easy.

If resin uprights are between each steel panel then that insulate the panels from each other. Electrically all the panels should be wired together for proper bonding.

Many AGP are not well bonded because of their construction.
 
The uprights are just supports on the outside of the wall, mostly they just keep the pool round (the wall strength depends on it) and provide vertical support for the top rail. The wall itself is continuous, although the Saltwater pool that I bought does have a separate panel just for the skimmer and return because that one section is made from stainless steel.

I intend to do whatever it takes to properly bond mine. I hope that just bonding to the skimmer panel somehow will be enough for the wall, then I can put a plate inside the skimmer itself to bond the water. Then down into the ground and it should be good. Need to do more research to make sure I get it right.
 
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