EasyTouch 4 -- Self-wiring roadblock

pdalton

Active member
Jun 19, 2014
27
Grapevine, TX
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I hate to have to ask for help on this because I've read so many other posts about it, but I somehow still am getting it wrong.

After my old IC40 died, it seemed like a good time to get some automation options for the future, so I bought an EasyTouch 4PSC-IC40. The IC40 went right to work - I'd replaced one before. For the EasyTouch, before I changed anything, I spent a lot of time reading about it & -- from what I learned -- I knew wiring it likely would be a challenge, but I thought I could do it because -- at this point -- all I have to deal with is the SCG and the pump. No heater, no water features, etc. Seemed like that should make it easier.

My first surprise was when I discovered the underground PVC conduit (1/2" ID) from the main panel to the pump area contained only separate black, red, & green wires -- no white wire. So I pulled a new white wire ( THAT was a whole lot less fun than I wanted).

After mounting the EasyTouch (the easiest part), I tried principally following Pentair's instructions with notes I had made from other TFP posts. I quickly discovered that -- for me -- Pentair's having including Intellitouch info mixed with EasyTouch info got very confusing, so I scratched out the Intellitouch text and illustrations and I believe it was a bit clearer.

After doing the wiring, when I turned it all on, the lights above AUX2 & AUX 4 flashed ON and the small 3A breaker in the top panel tripped. So I've done something wrong, I just don't know what it is.

Here's how I intended it to be set up:

An existing 30A 240VAC breaker (non-GFCI) at main panel in garage supplies power (via Bk, R, W, & G wires) to connectors of ET subpanel.
I installed a 20A 240VAC GFCI breaker in the EasyTouch subpanel.
Using a R & a Bk jumper wire, I connected the two terminals of the 240VAC GFCI breaker in the ET subpanel to the two LINE terminals of the Filter Pump Relay.
I connected the Intelliflo 2 VST pump's power wires as follows: R & Bk directly to the two terminals of the 240VAC GFCI breaker in the ET subpanel; W to the white bar; & G to the ground bar.
From the SCG Transformer (wired for 240VAC), I connected its W & Y wires to the two LOAD terminals of the Filter Pump Relay.
Because I had on hand a 20A 120VAC GFCI outlet I needed to have mounted on the side of the ET box and I also had on hand a 20A 120VAC breaker (non-GFCI), I installed that breaker into the ET subpanel, then connected a (Bk) jumper wire from that breaker to the upper hot-side terminal on the GFCI Outlet and connected a W jumper wire from the upper neutral (white) side of the GFCI Outlet to the White bar.

To provide GFCI protection for the System Transformer, I left it wired for 120VAC and connected its Bk wire to the lower hot-side terminal on the GFCI Outlet and connected its purple wire to the lower neutral (white) side of the GFCI Outlet, so the System Transformer would receive GFCI-protected 120VAC power.

For the low-voltage wiring in the top section, I followed the directions as best I could. However, it required some interpretation because the SCG circuit board illustrated in the manual is different than the one that came mounted in my ET.

The manual references (& its illustrations show) a SCG circuit board with "COM1" marked on it and instructs that the R, G, Y, Bk wires should be connected between that COM1 and the "J20 COM Port" on the ET main circuit board (which is correctly marked). My ET came with its R, G, Y, Bk cable already connected to "JP2" on the SCG circuit board, so I've assumed that to be the referenced "COM 1" and just left it there.

The last anomaly is the low voltage wiring for the IntelliFlo 2 VST pump. The manual references a 4-wire cable with R, G, Y, Bk wires. The cable for my pump contains 5 wires: R, Blue, Y, Bk, & W (I checked inside the pump and those colors correspond to the stamped color abbreviations on the pump itself). So I treated the Blue as a Green wire and just tied off the (now) extra white wire.

I've taken, annotated, and attached photos that may better clarify what I've tried to describe above.

I hope someone can tell me what I've done wrong and what I must do to make it all work as it should.

Thanks,
Paul
 

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Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
22,239
Bedford, TX
Paul,

It appears to me that you have the wrong cable going to your pump... It should only have two wires, a yellow wire and a green wire.. The pump does not get connected to the blue or red connection at J20. I suspect that is the main reason your "electronics" breaker is popping..

Are you sure you have an IntelliFlo pump and not a SuperFlo VS? Does the cable have a part number?

I suspect that the cable you have is for the SuperFlo VS, which is not an RS-485 cable.

The SWCG/Surge card has three RS-485 connections.. They are all identical and it does not matter which one you use. They are all interconnected, so connecting one of them to J20 on the main board, connects them all to J20.

Your pump and SWCG transformer are wired correctly..

The system transformer does not need GFCI protection and doing so is a mistake.. If the GFCI pops for any reason, the EasyTouch will shut down. I suggest that you only wire the system transformer to the 120 VAC breaker and neutral.. I would leave the GFCI outlet installed as it is a good place to have an outlet.

Where did you get the control cable going to the pump?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Last edited:

pdalton

Active member
Jun 19, 2014
27
Grapevine, TX
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Jim- THANK YOU very much!

After reading and acting on your recommendations, I have good news & bad news. Every bit of the good news is due to you . . . and every bit of the bad news is on me!

So thanks, thanks, thanks for your great observations and really good advice!

As you suggested, I removed (& tied off) the Red & Black wires from J20 and wired the System Transformer directly to the 120VAC breaker. That did the trick!

So you'll know why those 4 wires were all connected to J20, I've attached a photo of the bottom of page 18 & the top of page 19 of the ET manual, which I could interpret only as requiring that all 4 of those wires should be attached to J20. Did I misread it somehow?

Details:
The pump is a Pentair Intelliflo 2 VST, Model#011055. Originally, its control panel was on top of the pump, but I bought & installed the "Pentair Keypad Relocation Kit #356904Z" to move the Control Panel up to the nearby wall (at eye level). That kit came with a blank cover for the top of the pump (to cover the opening after the Control Panel is removed/relocated) and that specific extension cable.

[That mod was very easy to do: After the Control Panel is removed from the top of the pump, the original (very short) connector between the pump & the Control Panel is also removed, & then the 5 wires (Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, & White) of the Kit's cable are connected to the existing terminals of the pump where those specific colors (including "Blue") are stamped into the pump housing. That cable then gets routed out through a grommeted hole and up to the relocated Control Panel. Then the "blank" cover from the Kit is installed on top of the pump where the Control Panel originally was located.]

I don't remember whether yet a different new cable came with the EasyTouch (maybe so), but it obviously was easier for me to just use the already attached cable and follow the instructions on page 19 of the ET (520593) manual where it instructs to attach the cable's conductors to the "COM PORT (J20) screw terminals . . . (see diagram below)". The "diagram below" clearly shows all 4 of the Red, Yellow, Green, & Black wires from the IntelliFlo pump control cable attached at J2. So that's why I did it that way.

And, as I mentioned before, although that cable didn't have a Green wire, it DID have a Blue wire that I knew was attached to the pump at a terminal marked "Blue" and I also knew there was no terminal on that pump marked for "Green". So I assumed the Blue cable wire was the functional equivalent of the Green wire. And the cable also had that White wire attached to the pump at a terminal marked "White", but because J20 didn't have a terminal for a 5th (or White) wire, I just left that White wire unconnected.

So today I made the changes identified above and, as I said, the ET and the pump started up just as they should . . . EXCEPT (and this is the bad news that I'm sure was my fault) when the pump picked up speed, water started spraying out of a crack near the top of my old Tagleus TA 100D filter! The pump quickly backed itself down to about 30 GPM & the spraying stopped (didn't even appear toleak), but this obviously means I now either must find a way to seal that crack or get a new filter system! I'm guessing the crack was caused by the unseasonably low sub-freezing temps we had recently. RATS!!

But at least the EasyTouch is working now!

Thanks again,
Paul
 

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Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
22,239
Bedford, TX
Glad you got the pump working and too bad about your filter... A lot of freeze damage has been reported here.. Some of it is amazing!!!

Just to be clear All 4 wires to J20 are used when connecting a remote, or RF antenna, or other things that don't have their own power supply.. But since the pump has its own power, only the two data lines get connected.

I have a large cartridge filter and love it.. My filter pressure is only about 1 or 2 lbs. and there is no backwash valve.. It is dirt simple.. I clean mine twice a year, but could go all year between cleanings if I wanted.

Good luck with your upgrade and let us know if you run into any other issues.

Programming can be fun, but pretty easy with ScreenLogic.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

pdalton

Active member
Jun 19, 2014
27
Grapevine, TX
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Glad you got the pump working and too bad about your filter... A lot of freeze damage has been reported here.. Some of it is amazing!!!

Just to be clear All 4 wires to J20 are used when connecting a remote, or RF antenna, or other things that don't have their own power supply.. But since the pump has its own power, only the two data lines get connected.

I have a large cartridge filter and love it.. My filter pressure is only about 1 or 2 lbs. and there is no backwash valve.. It is dirt simple.. I clean mine twice a year, but could go all year between cleanings if I wanted.

Good luck with your upgrade and let us know if you run into any other issues.

Programming can be fun, but pretty easy with ScreenLogic.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks again!

"since the pump has its own power, only the two data lines get connected."
I sure wish Pentair would have mentioned that little fact in the manual!

Can you give me any recommendations for cartridge filters I should look at for this 20,000 gallon pool?

Bedford & Grapevine are pretty close, so I imagine you probably have thoughts about what to consider in this area.

Paul
 

pdalton

Active member
Jun 19, 2014
27
Grapevine, TX
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks James, I do see that now.

However, a big part of my misunderstanding is that NO "IntelliFlo COM Port" exists anywhere on my EastTouch. There's a terminal on the Easytouch circuit board marked as both "J20" and as "COM Port", but nothing is marked as "IntelliFlo COM Port" anywhere on my EasyTouch.

So I had concluded that was just another of the many references in the manual that apply only to sonething on the "IntelliTouch" systems, the instructions for which are mixed in with (and I believe confuse) the instructions for the EasyTouch.

In hindsight - I suppose I would have understood it all better if I had (1) ignored the text of the paragraph beginning with "Easytouch" (bolded & the product I do have), which says to connect that cable as shown in the "diagram below" that - for some reason - illustrates all FOUR wires being attached to J20, and (2) assumed that the term "IntelliFlo COM Port" really meant just "COM Port" (or "J20") on the EasyTouch circuit board.

Those instructions are indeed very cleverly worded . . . well beyond my ability to readily comprehend their true meaning. They "trapped me" because I assumed the words they used actually meant what they intended. I've just got to be more careful in the future!
 
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Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
22,239
Bedford, TX
Paul,

The bigger the filter the better... I would not go less than 320 Sq. Ft. I have a 17K pool and the Clean and Clear CCP-520.

I like these guys.. Clean & Clear Plus

That said, you could not have picked a worse time to order pool parts.. Prices are up and a lot of stuff is our of stock because of the big freeze..

Also.. Keep in mind that most Pentair products are not designed for DIY installs. Pentair sells most of their products to pool builders through distributors.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

pdalton

Active member
Jun 19, 2014
27
Grapevine, TX
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Jim - Thanks for the filter info. I checked and you're sure right about this being a bad time! Just my luck! But I have to do something fairly soon.

Checking online, it looks like the prices for either the CCP-320 & the CCP-520 are a lot more than for Pentair's sand filters, but of course I know they also filter out much smaller particles than sand filters can.

However, while at Pentair's site I read about one model of their Tagleus sand filter (a "TA 60D CP") that coms with the ClearPro technology. Even it appears to be much less expensive than the CCP models. Do you happen to have any thoughts/knowledge about it? I wonder whether it even would be sufficient for this pool, as it apparently only comes in that "60D" size, while the older Tagleus I have now is quite a bit larger (a "TA 100D").
 
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