Draining water out of a mesh-covered pool after closing

[poolnewbie4]

I need to drain water out of my mesh-covered pool since my pool service didn't lower the water at closing and I like to keep the water level below the tiles all winter to protect them from damage. I just tested my chlorine out of curiosity, and I noticed that the chlorine level at the top is much lower than the chlorine level near the bottom. I closed with FC of 16 and it looks like the bottom is close to where I left it but the top is only at 8 ppms. I assume this is due to the rain that we got since closing. Is there any way to only drain water from the top so I'm not draining out chlorine and CYA that I want to keep in the pool? I normally put the sump pump in the shallow end since its closer to the plug but I have a swim out seat in the deep end that I could potentially put it on if that would be preferable.

Since I closed at SLAM level (16) for the first time, I am also curious to know if a chlorine level that high could potentially damage my 1/3 HP sump pump and if I need to flush it out with water after using it to protect it from damage from the chlorine. I'm also curious to know if there is anything I could do to protect my grass while pumping water out since I can't pump it out into the street. Would simply running the hose over the grass after pumping water out help? It usually takes 5-6 hours to drain water to the desired level with my 1/3 HP sump pump attached to a garden hose so I normally move the hose a few feet every hour or two so I'm not saturating the same area. I might rethink this technique if the high chlorine could potentially kill the grass. The grass is fescue and I know that high chlorine will kill it since the grass around the backwash line died after doing a SLAM this Spring.

 

[Biskitz]

I'd say setting the sump pump in the seat is a viable option. Also 5-6 hours for a 20k pool doesn't sound right, even with a 1/3HP pump. How long is your garden hose? That long length, narrow tubing may reduce the flow rate of that pump.

If it's long it might be a preferable option to buy a "discharge hose" from the local supply store and adapt it to your pump outlet. It's like a rolled up plastic firehose. If you can find one that you can adapt to the 3/4 GHT (garden hose) then that's what I'd go for. It may even be long enough to get it somewhere more suitable than the grass? If not, I'd also get a tarp while you're at the store, and put that under the discharge. The pump itself should be fine at 8 PPM, depending on the build quality/materials, so long as you thoroughly rinse it and run fresh water thru it right after. I wouldn't worry about any plastic-type pumps but be wary if it's a cast iron, or even stainless internals.

 

[newdude]

I need to drain water out of my mesh-covered pool since my pool service didn't lower the water at closing and I like to keep the water level below the tiles all winter to protect them from damage

As rain water accumulates, you need to drain so even if they did lower it enough, it could have been time anyway if it's been wet recently. It's the users choice if they'd rather drain a foot 3 times over the winter. Six inches 6 times (etc etc). But we get about 3 ft of off season accumulation in the northeast. (Depemding on weather year to year and how long it's closed, of course)

closed with FC of 16 and it looks like the bottom is close to where I left it but the top is only at 8 ppms. I assume this is due to the rain that we got since closing.

I proved similar last year with no FC up top, a little.at 2 ft and just like I left it on the bottom. I added a new step when draining and after draining, tossed the pump hose on the cover for 20 mins each on the left, right and center. For this you want to drop the pump to the bottom. Put it in a 5 gal bucket on the floor to help protect the pool finish.

Is there any way to only drain water from the top so I'm not draining out chlorine and CYA that I want to keep in the pool?

With my newfound knowledge of the exact stratification (we're always all learning, even on year 11 ), I will MacGuyver up a stand that I can hang the pump high in the pool. I'll use 2 chairs and a 2X4 at a corner or something similar, haven't had to do it yet. Lol. But I'll use the 5 gal bucket here too, to let the pump be deeper (2 ft ?) while sucking higher water. I'll have to pay closer attention with less room for error in the water height.

I cannot reccomend this $83 1.6HP monster enough. It will accept a 3/4 garden hose (ok), 1 inch backwash hose (better), or 1.5 inch hose (fire hydrant). Somebody upped it to 2 inch this year and their all day project took no time at all.

I am also curious to know if a chlorine level that high could potentially damage my 1/3 HP sump pump and if I need to flush it out with water after using it to protect it from damage from the chlorine

The CYA buffers the FC making SLAM less harsh (lower HOCL content) than the tap water you'll rinse it with. Rinse it anyway. I fill up a garbage can with the hose and dump the pump in to rinse it with 55 gallons.

I'm also curious to know if there is anything I could do to protect my grass while pumping water out since I can't pump it out into the street.

I can attest that Fescue and KY bluegrass love pool water, wherever I drain is always the greenest grass in the yard. SWG range CYA (70/80) and FC in the teens is my usual dump water. Maybe you can drown less hardy grass in the hot climates but your yard should be plenty used to being flooded in TN.

 

[ajw22]

You have a fiberglass pool. Fixing tiles is easier then fixing a fiberglass pool.

I would be very careful about how much water you drain. Your pool company knew what they were doing when they closed your pool.