Draining and bringing down the waterline?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Let's start with CYA testing.

You want to stand outdoors with your back to the sun and hold the view tube at about waist level. If sunlight is not available, find the brightest artificial light you can.

Slowly pour the mixture from the mixing bottle into the view tube to the first line, check at your waist, just a quick glance. If you can't see the dot you are done. If you can see it pour to the next line and repeat. Continue pouring to the next line until all traces of the black dot at the bottom of the view tube completely disappear, AT A GLANCE.

Reading the result:
  • If the view tube is completely full, and you can still see the black dot clearly, your CYA level is zero.
  • If the view tube is completely full and the black dot is only partially obscured, your CYA level is above zero but lower than the lowest level your test kit can measure (20 or 30 ppm).
  • If the tube is not completely full, look at the scale on the side of the view tube. Record your CYA result.
So, somewhat visible. Was it mostly obscured on not really obscured. Would you call it a mostly cloudy or partly cloudy?

For our purposes were going to call your CYA 20. Pool math says 1.5 lbs of Stabilizer will raise your pool CYA by 11. Put 1.5 lbs in a sock, tie it off and put it into your skimmer. After 30 minutes, you can start squeezing and it will dissolve.

At the same time, with a pH of 7.2, you are good to go with your slam. You need to find about 10 gallons of liquid chlorine to start the process. You may use more, you may use less. When you have your liquid chlorine, follow these instructions! Your SLAM level for 30ppm of CYA is 12. That is your target for SLAM (target found here: FC/CYA Levels)

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The more often (every 1-2 hours) you test and add Liquid Chlorine, the faster the process will go. Use the 10ml sample of water for the FAS-DPD test (.5 increments), it will save reagents.
 
tsar said:
The water was green, but it has cleared up after the first day of running the filter. I
Click to expand...
^^ you had/have algae, even if you can't see it. The only way to rid your pool of the Algae is the SLAM process.
tsar said:
@PoolStored - I would say partially cloudy regarding cya test.
Click to expand...
You are likely lower that 20 on the CYA. Go ahead and add the whole 1.75 lbs of stabilizer that you have. That will get us started.
tsar said:
> You need to find about 10 gallons of liquid chlorine to start the process.
I have a SWG, shouldn't I be adding salt instead to generate the chlorine? If I remember the pool store folks said to add salt and let the filter/swg run for 24 hours?
Click to expand...
Again the only solution to ALGAE is to SLAM. You can only do that with liquid chlorine. We'll get to adding salt and firing up the SWCG after we confirm that ALGAE is no longer an issue. During the SLAM, you want to turn off your SWCG.

If you don't think you have algae, or you aren't ready to SLAM yet, then do this test tonight -->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Test AFTER dark, and BEFORE sunrise. If your FC drops more than 1ppm, you have algae.
 
tsar said:
If I remember the pool store folks said to add salt and let the filter/swg run for 24 hours?
Click to expand...
:ROFLMAO: I AM PoolStored. I would ignore their advice, we got you.

You want to add the salt with the SWCG OFF for 24 hours to allow the salt to mix. One bag, no need. You are going to be adding 4 bags, I would recommend turning off the SWCG for 24 hours until the salt mixes. A large slug of salt increase can damage the SWCG.

It probably doesn't matter if you add the salt now, or after SLAM. In either case, you can only SLAM with liquid chlorine (LC). It is easier to do at the end of the SLAM because you are using LC to chlorinate and you have to turn the SWCG off for a big addition of salt.
 
>Again the only solution to ALGAE is to SLAM. You can only do that with liquid chlorine. We'll get to adding salt and firing up the SWCG after we confirm that ALGAE is no longer an issue. During the SLAM, you want to turn off your SWCG.

Hmm... ok, adding chlorine is fine - I'm just curious the pool was greenish when it was opened by the pool tech. He "shocked" the pool, which probably cleared up most of the algae. What we are doing now is clearing up the algae that might have accumulated since, because chlorine level has been practically 0 and the pool has been open in the summer for over a week. Does that sound correct?
 
  • Like
Reactions: ghall6292
tsar said:
>Again the only solution to ALGAE is to SLAM. You can only do that with liquid chlorine. We'll get to adding salt and firing up the SWCG after we confirm that ALGAE is no longer an issue. During the SLAM, you want to turn off your SWCG.

Hmm... ok, adding chlorine is fine - I'm just curious the pool was greenish when it was opened by the pool tech. He "shocked" the pool, which probably cleared up most of the algae. What we are doing now is clearing up the algae that might have accumulated since, because chlorine level has been practically 0 and the pool has been open in the summer for over a week. Does that sound correct?
Click to expand...
Spot On. Have you read through the SLAM process? SLAM Process Have you read the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test? Overnight Chlorine Loss Test Hopefully those make sense to you on what they are and what they do.

We know, if you lose >1ppm FC overnight, you have algae, even if you can't see it.

We know if you raise your FC to SLAM levels and keep it there, until your pool is 1) clear (including to dusty stuff floating around the bottom, 2) you lose <=1ppm FC in an OCLT and 3) your CC<=.5, THEN you no longer have algae.

We don't "shock" pools weekly. There is no need. When you maintain enough sanitizing chlorine in your pool, algae will never be a "thing." You just follow the targets for FC in this chart -->FC/CYA Levels

I had to do 1 SLAM in my life and I hope to never do one again. I have maintained my FC for my CYA and I have a crystal clear pool. I don't worry about algae, shocking, algaecide, floc or anything else. I use my SWCG, salt, Muratic for pH...and that's about it. You have a gunite pool, so you will have to worry about TA and CH, but that comes after we get your pool clear and your SWCG going!

We got you.
 
Another question, I am currently lowering the waterline, and have the valve turned to "waste", water is currently coming out of the faucet without turning the pump on. However am I not supposed to turn the pump on? (I thought I did) When I turn the pump on, there seems to be a lot of pressure in the DE separation tank, and one of the nuts there starts spraying water.
 
tsar said:
Another question, I am currently lowering the waterline, and have the valve turned to "waste", water is currently coming out of the faucet without turning the pump on. However am I not supposed to turn the pump on? (I thought I did) When I turn the pump on, there seems to be a lot of pressure in the DE separation tank, and one of the nuts there starts spraying water.
Click to expand...
So I understand. You have the MPV turned to waste. You have the ORANGE T handled valve open. Water is coming out of the red handled spigot, with the pump off? In that case, the red handled spigot is open and the water is running downhill from the DE Filter, which is full of water, so that makes sense. Just close the red handled spigot and water should not come out anymore.

Yes, pump should be on if you want to drain.

Can you take a picture of the "NUT" that is spraying water? Have you emptied the DE separator?


1658518156505.png

1658518156505.png

 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
>Have you checked/cleaned the separation tank’s bag of the DE it’s captured?
When the pool was opened, I believe they cleaned the filter, I know since the cleaning process left a lot of DE in the area. I personally haven't cleaned/checked the tanks or the amount of DE it's captured.

How frequently do I need to check/clean the separation tanks bag of DE ? What's the process?

In fact now that the robot is here and vacuuming regularly, I see a lot of silt deposit being captured, which I assume is DE (is that normal)?
 
Every time you backwash you should clean the separation tank And dispose of the de. By design it will capture the de and send the water back to the pool. To drain down like you are trying is not using the system as designed, but once you completely get the de out of the filter and separation tank, you shouldn’t see any more pressure rise in the tank as you’re trying to drain down the pool. Once you‘re at the level you want, you should recharge the filter with de.
 
tsar said:
>Have you checked/cleaned the separation tank’s bag of the DE it’s captured?
When the pool was opened, I believe they cleaned the filter, I know since the cleaning process left a lot of DE in the area. I personally haven't cleaned/checked the tanks or the amount of DE it's captured.

How frequently do I need to check/clean the separation tanks bag of DE ? What's the process?
Click to expand...
After every backwash, instructions here:
tsar said:
In fact now that the robot is here and vacuuming regularly, I see a lot of silt deposit being captured, which I assume is DE (is that normal)?
Click to expand...
Is the silt white? If it is DE, is not normal and your grids, if compromised, are allowing DE back into the pool.
 
> To drain down like you are trying is not using the system as designed, but once you completely get the de out of the filter and separation tank, you shouldn’t see any more pressure rise in the tank as you’re trying to drain down the pool.

I thought this was the right way to reduce the waterline, if not what's the right way? The pool opening did include cleaning the DE filter, so I'm hoping I don't have to clean it again this soon ( 1 week later).

@PoolStored - The silt is not white, it's like cement grey, more close to sand.

I'll add some more pics for where I saw the water leak when I turned the pump on with "waste" setting.
 
After some more thought if you clean out the separation tank and lower water via the waste setting on your MPV, you should be bypassing the filter and should‘nt have an issue with the tank re-filling with DE during the process.
 
Last edited:
@Lake Placid @PoolStored
I'm sorry but I'm still trying to understand what are the right steps for me to reduce the waterline in the future given my set up. And what exactly should I do now given that I probably let the water run without the pump running in the "waste mode" of the MPV, with both the valves of the waste line open for about 30-40 mins at least. I've now shut them off as a precaution until I figure out what's the right thing to do.
 
tsar said:
The silt is not white, it's like cement grey, more close to sand.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that is likely DE being returned to the pool. Can you take pics of what the robot is picking up? It is very possible that the grids were compromised when they were cleaned, or something was not put together right.
 
tsar said:
@Lake Placid @PoolStored
I'm sorry but I'm still trying to understand what are the right steps for me to reduce the waterline in the future given my set up. And what exactly should I do now given that I probably let the water run without the pump running in the "waste mode" of the MPV, with both the valves of the waste line open for about 30-40 mins at least. I've now shut them off as a precaution until I figure out what's the right thing to do.
Click to expand...
The process is correct, just make sure the separation tank is empty prior to draining down. I had a mental block and was stuck thinking you were in backwash mode draining down. It’s my brain fart not a problem with the process other than the tank needs to be empty.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply