Draining and bringing down the waterline?

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PoolStored said:
Does the large pipe in the center of the frame at :13 seconds into the video go into the ground?
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I'm assuming from the video, though really tough to see, that that the line from the SWCG and the line from the separator join and go into the ground. Assuming that, here is what you have.

  1. if the multiport is in "filter," water from the pump goes through the multiport, filter, the to heater, SWCG and back to pool. It also feeds the booster pump for the pressure vacuum.
  2. If the multiport is in the recirculate, it does the same but does not go through the filter.
  3. If the multiport is in Backwash, it will go through multiport and reverse the flow of water in the filter and will push water out the WASTE side of the multiport. This will take all the DE out of your filter and put it into the separator. If you backwash, you want to make sure the T handle is open.
  4. If the multiport is in rinse, it will push water through the filter in the normal direction for the filter, but water will go to the WASTE side of the mulitport. If you rinse, you should have T handle open.
  5. if the multiport is the WASTE position, anything pumped will go through the multiport, but NOT through the filter and will go to the WASTE side of the multiport. You should have T handle open.
  6. For Backwash, Rinse and Waste, all water will be returned to the pool. The separator is used if you backwash to catch any of the DE and particulates from the backwash.
  7. The ONLY way to use this system to drain water from the pool is by using the spigot.
    1. Since the pad is below the pool, you can use this to drain without pump running (as you found out). Open T, open spigot.
    2. You can turn on the pump with Multiport in WASTE, T handle open and use spigot open to speed the draining. As you found out, you need to close the valve on top of the separator. Under pressure it should NOT spray water like it did. If you can manually close it so it doesn't spray, you are good to go. If it sprays AFTER you manually close, the o-ring is likely shot. You can try to find a replacement at HD/Lowes/Ace if you have the old one. If not the vent valve, with o-ring is Hayward part #ECX1322A.
Net Net is that the waste line goes back to the pool (if, as I said, the SWCG line and Separator line join and go into the ground.

That should give you summary on the equipment and how it generally works. Valve from skimmers (or from skimmer and main drain if that is configuration) will allow you to control how much comes from either one, or allow you to close one, the other or both. It is likely setup so that you can only close one side if the pins are in the handle.

Hope this covers the equipment end of the equation, and how to drain.

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I'll be doing the SLAM today. As I go through it, I might put in a few questions, it's been way too many hot days (i think we are going close to 14 now) with 0 chlorine so I'm going to skip the OCLT).

1. @PoolStored - As I mentioned, I won't have this weekend pretty much, and have like 3 days at most to work with the pool. (We had to get tickets for the 30th night instead of 1st, so it makes things very tight).
A few questions before I get started with SLAM. I was hoping to avoid cleaning the DE filter since it was recently cleaned, is that a must in the SLAM process? My concern is I might not have time to figure out how to clean it given the short timeline.

2. I have 12 gallons of liquid chlorine that I got yest evening, I know you said put 10 gallons, is that all together, or do that staggered?

3.
> For our purposes were going to call your CYA 20. Pool math says 1.5 lbs of Stabilizer will raise your pool CYA by 11. Put 1.5 lbs in a sock, tie it off and put it into your skimmer. After 30 minutes, you can start squeezing and it will dissolve.

Is there an order in which I need to add the stabilizer vs chlorine? i.e. add stabilizer first and then chlorine? Lastly the waterline is still higher than where I'd like but I believe the skimmer works, just seems like less movement probably because it's skimming below the waterline. Is that going to be a problem?

4. As for reducing the waterline, I'm going to keep things simple and use a sump pump, might work easier overall and be better given the location of the waste spigot. But the waterline is right now about 1.5 inch above half of the skimmer, which I assume isn't a problem to get SLAM process started.
 

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tsar said:
I'll be doing the SLAM today. As I go through it, I might put in a few questions, it's been way too many hot days (i think we are going close to 14 now) with 0 chlorine so I'm going to skip the OCLT).

1. @PoolStored - As I mentioned, I won't have this weekend pretty much, and have like 3 days at most to work with the pool. (We had to get tickets for the 30th night instead of 1st, so it makes things very tight).
A few questions before I get started with SLAM. I was hoping to avoid cleaning the DE filter since it was recently cleaned, is that a must in the SLAM process? My concern is I might not have time to figure out how to clean it given the short timeline.
Click to expand...
No, however if you have lots of deal algae you are filtering, your filter may need to be cleaned a few times during slam. Typically, when your "clean" pressure rises 25% you want to backwash and reset your filter.
tsar said:
2. I have 12 gallons of liquid chlorine that I got yest evening, I know you said put 10 gallons, is that all together, or do that staggered?
Click to expand...
You should follow this process --> (click it) SLAM Process If you have any questions, ask. You should test your FC and add enough to get back to your target FC level. For your 30ppm with the sock addition, your FC target level is 12. The more often you can test and add the better (like every 1-2 hours). Use the 10ml FC test (.5ppm test). This will save reagents.
tsar said:
3.
> For our purposes were going to call your CYA 20. Pool math says 1.5 lbs of Stabilizer will raise your pool CYA by 11. Put 1.5 lbs in a sock, tie it off and put it into your skimmer. After 30 minutes, you can start squeezing and it will dissolve.

Is there an order in which I need to add the stabilizer vs chlorine? i.e. add stabilizer first and then chlorine? Lastly the waterline is still higher than where I'd like but I believe the skimmer works, just seems like less movement probably because it's skimming below the waterline. Is that going to be a problem?
Click to expand...
Put the stabilizer in the sock in the skimmer, you can start the slam process at the same time. I would target 12 for your SLAM (here is the FC/CYA chart that gives you SLAM Level for your CYA FC/CYA Levels) Skimmer level is probably not ideal, for skimming, but if you are pulling water through you should be fine.
tsar said:
4. As for reducing the waterline, I'm going to keep things simple and use a sump pump, might work easier overall and be better given the location of the waste spigot. But the waterline is right now about 1.5 inch above half of the skimmer, which I assume isn't a problem to get SLAM process started.
Click to expand...
Nope, not a problem, just won't be efficient at skimming.
 
Last edited:
tsar said:
I do have DE on hand, at least 1 bag of DE
Click to expand...
Great. Let's just watch your filter pressure. What is it now?

Do you have Pool Math on your phone to help you calculate how much chlorine to add? If not, get it! PoolMath

When you have it, go to the gear in the upper right corner, then scroll to the bottom and enable sharing with TFP, then we can see your test results, this will help us during/after your SLAM.

Since we are tight on time and you want to be ready to run your SWCG after SLAM, you can add your SALT now with SWCG OFF. At 1600 from your test, FOUR 40 lb bags will get you to your minimum 2800 for your SWCG. Since you want to add it when it is off, now is a good time. Just dump it in the shallow end and brush it around until it dissolves, 4 bags shouldn't take more that 10 minutes or so...
 
tsar said:
@PoolStored - the pressure gauage on the DE filter reads 25
Click to expand...
Great! Your "clean" pressure is likely lower, but we can work with that. As you kill algae, your filter will filter it out. Your target pressure for cleaning is 1.25 x 25 = 32-33. Cleaning the filter is really not that hard, but we can cross that bridge when we get there. While you are SLAMMING, here are two articles to read on DE Filters in case we need to go there:

DE Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

DE Filter Cleaning Tutorial

This tutorial is geared toward the traditional grid-style DE filters. If you have a cartridge-style DE filter, you may want to switch over to JoyfulNoise's QuadDE Tutorial. When DE filters are backwashed, not all of the DE/fiber cellulose (henceforth, the term DE will be used to refer to both)...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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