Drain and refill plaster pool with temps in the 80s?

Did you add CYA? There wouldn't be any CYA in a fresh fill, it's something you add to your pool.

Yep, sure did, about 5 pounds of dry CYA from a sock. Spent a lot of time brushing to mix in the bits that escaped.

Are you planning to take care of the water yourself? Have you read Pool School, and learned about Pool Math?

Yep, been reading as much as I can for the past few months and going to try to take it on myself.

Was able to get the FC up to 6.5 and pH up slightly, and the CH up to 250 later on in the day as well. TA came down to 110. So I think pretty much everything is where it should be at this point.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Yep, sure did, about 5 pounds of dry CYA from a sock. Spent a lot of time brushing to mix in the bits that escaped.



Yep, been reading as much as I can for the past few months and going to try to take it on myself.

Was able to get the FC up to 6.5 and pH up slightly, and the CH up to 250 later on in the day as well. TA came down to 110. So I think pretty much everything is where it should be at this point.

Thanks for all the help!

I'm probably too late, but the CH of our fill water here is around 225. You don't need to add CH, within a month or two it will be 250 and you're off to the races. While it's at 225, just watch the CSI and leave your pH a little higher, in the 7.8 to 8.0 range and everything will be fine. We have so much calcium in our water here in Tucson there is very little need to ever add calcium if you're filling from the tap.
 
I too plan to start on the low end of the range for CH and salt, to prolong the inevitable refill! My fill CH is 350, so I've got a built-in challenge. I've attached my auto-fill system to my water softener (CH = 0) to slow the "CH Creep." I write about that elsewhere if you're interested, along with my experiment to use captured rain water to maintian or lower CH and salt levels...

There's a school of thought for managing CH up to high 3-digits (or more), and another that suggests changing water ofter just to "clean house." Not sure if TFP has "best practice" advice about those ideas. But there are other considerations as well: cost of water, risks involved with emptying your pool of water, local ordinances about draining pools, fill water specs, etc.
 
Thanks for all the help, guys!

I'm probably too late, but the CH of our fill water here is around 225. You don't need to add CH, within a month or two it will be 250 and you're off to the races. While it's at 225, just watch the CSI and leave your pH a little higher, in the 7.8 to 8.0 range and everything will be fine. We have so much calcium in our water here in Tucson there is very little need to ever add calcium if you're filling from the tap.

Yeah good call. I didn't add any CH, it was just testing at 250 at that moment. It tested back at 225 yesterday. I don't plan on adding CH if I can keep everything else in check. It was 1100 when I drained it so I can forsee problems.

My city fill water tests at 225 as well.

I'll try to keep the pH on the high side.

Dirk said:
I too plan to start on the low end of the range for CH and salt, to prolong the inevitable refill! My fill CH is 350, so I've got a built-in challenge. I've attached my auto-fill system to my water softener (CH = 0) to slow the "CH Creep." I write about that elsewhere if you're interested, along with my experiment to use captured rain water to maintian or lower CH and salt levels...

I've got a rain barrel too and will get into figuring out where that falls in the range soon.
 
Short version: rain here is CH0, but I was collecting it off my concrete tile roof, so by the time it got to my pool it was CH40. I abandoned that idea because it was more trouble than it was worth since my softened auto fill water is CH0! Who knows what else was running off the roof. A rain barrel might work better, as there would be an opportunity to filter it somehow should it prove to contain any undesirables...
 
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