Down side to SWG?

Maybe another good reason to get away from Frog. My pH was forever drifting low, nearly always wanting to be mid-6's. The best reason I can imagine for that was the CYA being added by dichlor tablets, as I don't think I was adding anything else that would lower pH.

I went thru two full tubs of pH Up this spring, working up to the mid-7's, then watching it fall back to mid-6's, and then repeating the correction a second time.
 
My pH was forever drifting low, nearly always wanting to be mid-6's.
Tabs are acidic, that is your cause.

Looking at your logs, why are you adding washing soda? The are very few times that you should be using washing soda. With a TA as high as yours, pH will rise naturally, now that you are not using pucks.

How did you get a TA of 145?
 
How did you get a TA of 145?
Because I was following the instructions provided by Taylor for measuring TA, which were apparently wrong, according to folks on this site. I was measuring to first change from green to red, and getting values in the 60's and 80's, so I was adding a bit of "Alka Plus", targeting 100 ~ 120.

Then the folks on this site told me that I was measuring it wrong, that you need to keep adding drops until it stops getting any redder, and then subtract one. All of a sudden, my nice 110 ppm values jumped up to 140 - 150 ppm, using this new method.

If using my old method, adding drops until it turns from green to clear, and then first shift into red, I am sure I will get 110 ppm. I was told to target 100 - 120 ppm.
 
Each drop is 10...TA should be a number that ends in 0.

Target of 100-120 is based on using Pucks. Our recommendation is 60-80.
 
Each drop is 10...TA should be a number that ends in 0.
Oh, yeah... sorry. When I can't decide if it's 140 or 150, as the color change is too faint to say for sure, I just pick the value between. There was a very faint color change at 15 drops... so 140 ppm. Then I added one more drop, and I *think* I might have seen it change a bit more... so 150 ppm. But being less than totally sure, I discounted to 145.

Target of 100-120 is based on using Pucks. Our recommendation is 60-80.
Heh... gonna have to change out about 8300 gallons of water, to get down to that, unless there's another way to lower TA. Given they can't get any truck longer than 3500 gallons up my winding driveway, that's a few trips and some serious coinage.
 
. I was told to target 100 - 120 ppm.
Dont target any specific TA. Let the TA settle such that your ph is stable. This tends to be in the range of 60-80 (when youre not using pucks). Your ph will drift upwards due to the high ta, requiring muriatic acid to bring down ph. The acid will also slowly bring down the ta and eventually it should stabilize
 
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Heh... gonna have to change out about 8300 gallons of water, to get down to that, unless there's another way to lower TA. Given they can't get any truck longer than 3500 gallons up my winding driveway, that's a few trips and some serious coinage.
Since you are geeking out over TA. You will like this link. With your high TA, this, in fact is a good solution for you.

 
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Since you are geeking out over TA. You will like this link. With your high TA, this, in fact is a good solution for you.

Another toy to build! I don't have any spare 110V pumps around, only a 12V and a big PTO crop sprayer pump, both of which run off my tractor. But I'm sure I could pick up a sump pump this weekend.

I am a bit confused about the concern over taxing the pool pump, though. If we oversized the elbows on that return-powered sprinkler, I don't think it would increase pump back pressure much at all. The main risk there may be more in terms of accidentally breaking a return socket, if someone bumps that rig, but that could be resolved by attaching a backwash hose instead of hard plumbing.
 
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