Does anyone use the pH meter from TFT Test Kits?

[Skenn81]

This one: pH Meter

Thinking about getting one to go along with my regular Taylor kit, and since I am going to order a refill set in March it could be included with the shipment.

Are they worth using or should I just stick with my red drops? How long do they last with the included calibration stuff? As in would I need to calibrate it all the time or is it a set once and forget it?

pH I test most frequently so thought this might be a good option for quick midweek tests.

 

[BMerrill]

Have the TFtest kit pH meter, it seemed reliable.
Now using the Apera Instruments Series PH60. It is considerable more accurate than the drop test or the TFTest Kits version.
I test pH once a week during swim season.

 

[ajw22]

I found the cheap yellow pH meter got less reliable as the battery voltage dropped with usage. I think an unreliable pH meter is worthless.

The Apera pH meters are much better.

You get what you pay for,

 

[kul]

I wouldn’t recommend the ph meter from TFP. I have it and it’s never seemed incredibly accurate despite calibration, so I just rely on the drop test.

 

[midlifecrisis]

If I had to do it again, knowing what I know now, I wouldn't order it. I've had mine about a month at this point, and a couple of times I've turned it on only for it to be dead, which makes me wonder if it is still accurate/calibrated.

I want to stay away from having to compare colors as much as possible because I am always second guessing myself. I've been considering another. Just waiting for the right moment.

 

[jesse-99]

I just purchased the TF pH Digital meter today myself to try it. I have the Aptera PH60 too, but I've started to hate it. It reads high, despite calibrations, and it's slow to read too.. I've given up using my Aptera PH60 basically. Figured $18 was worth a try.

 

[duraleigh]

The drops based pH test in TFTestkits products is quite dependable. Some users are not confident in their ability to read the drops based test and so an inexpensive digital test is offered as a work-around.

The digital test was NEVER meant to replace the drops based test but rather an alternative to it.........only if you can't read the drops based.

 

[BMerrill]

I just purchased the TF pH Digital meter today myself to try it. I have the Aptera PH60 too, but I've started to hate it. It reads high, despite calibrations, and it's slow to read too.. I've given up using my Aptera PH60 basically.

The Aptera is differently not an instant read meter. Try placing a 2" sample of the water in a glass and leave the PH60 in the glass while you do the other test. It will settle in nicely. Same process applies when doing the calibration, give it some time to settle in.

 

[Sarah and Nate]

The drops based pH test in TFTestkits products is quite dependable. Some users are not confident in their ability to read the drops based test and so an inexpensive digital test is offered as a work-around.

The digital test was NEVER meant to replace the drops based test but rather an alternative to it.........only if you can't read the drops based.

This post is accurate. The pH meter is optional, and meant for users who prefer digital to analog.

Are they worth using or should I just stick with my red drops? How long do they last with the included calibration stuff? As in would I need to calibrate it all the time or is it a set once and forget it?

The included calibration solutions are not consumed by the meter, so as long as you store them in a closed container, you can reuse them indefinitely and calibrate whenever you notice deviation from your expected results. I would still recommend performing the R-0014 pH test using the TF comparator block once a week or so.

Nate @ TFT

 

[Dirk]

I have never used a digital pH tester, but after a quick read of the instructions for the Aptera PH60, I am very confident in the following. If it's quick, easy, accurate pH tests in a typical swimming pool you're after, stick with the drops. I can test pH in under 30 seconds, accurate to 1ppm. That's about twice as accurate as you need for a pool. No calibration necessary. No batteries necessary. And more importantly, no wondering if I need to calibrate, or change the battery, or if this reading, this time, is actually accurate. The drops never lie, and work every time.

Now if you have a need to measure pH more accurately than that, or at ranges outside of pH 7-8, or have vision issues that make reading drops difficult or impossible, then do continue your quest for the right digital solution. But if you're just after the fastest, easiest way to make sure your pool's pH is within an acceptable range, you're not going to do better than the drops.

 

[ajw22]

I can test pH in under 30 seconds, accurate to 1ppm.

FYI, pH is not measured in PPM.

The pH test has distinct coloring if you ignore all the numbers and just look at the coloring as too high, ok range, or too low. Trying to discern a pH difference of 0.1 or 0.2 is meaningless for most peoples pool care.

If your pH is too high (above 8) then lower it.

If your pH is too low (below 7) then raise it.

Any color in between those two, leave it alone.

 

[Dirk]

FYI, pH is not measured in PPM.

The pH test has distinct coloring if you ignore all the numbers and just look at the coloring as too high, ok range, or too low. Trying to discern a pH difference of 0.1 or 0.2 is meaningless for pool care.

If your pH is too high (above 8) then lower it.

If your pH is too low (below 7) then raise it.

Any color in between those two, leave it alone.

Ah, my bad. Every Taylor test I perform results in ppm numbers except pH, which Taylor calls "pH units." Thanks for the correction.

But I'll need to take exception to the rest of your statement. Advising to leave pH alone unless it goes out of the range of 7-8 is an oversimplification of pH management. There are many reasons to adjust your pH to a more restricted range. Personally, I don't want my pH to stray beyond two "pH units" of my target, and I generally maintain my pH even closer to target than that. I determine my pH target weekly using Pool Math calculators, which are based on CSI, a rather important consideration for those of us with plaster-based finishes, IMO. I regularly adjust pH to maintain a CSI that is best for my finish. Since CSI is affected by several parameters (salt level, water temperature, CH level, etc), which change seasonally and for other reasons, my pH target changes throughout the year, and any time I adjust CH. This level of pH management is a personal choice, of course, as some would argue it's not entirely necessary. But I prefer to keep my CSI (and so pH) in check, to help maintain my finish's appearance and hopefully its longevity.

Read up on CSI here at TFP and how it can affect your finish, and make up your own mind about how accurately you want to maintain pH. Keep in mind that where you live, and the type of fill water you have, can be part of the equation.

Having replaced my finish because of the previous owner's careless maintenance of pH and CSI, I know first hand how a finish reacts to improper pH/CSI management vs proper pH/CSI management, so, for me, strict pH level maintenance is what I choose.

For some pools, a pH reading between 7-8 is just fine. For other pools, I believe it's possible to increase your finish's lifespan and maintain its appearance as much as possible by monitoring and adjusting pH more accurately. TFP can help you determine which is best for your particular pool, if you're interested.

 

[ajw22]

For some pools, a pH reading between 7-8 is just fine. For other pools, I believe it's possible to increase your finish's lifespan and maintain its appearance as much as possible by monitoring and adjusting pH more accurately.

You over generalized like I did.

For the majority of TFP members CSI does not matter and I think there is too much emphasis on CSI here to where we have acrylic standalone spa users worrying about CSI for no reason.

Liner pools, fiberglass pools, above ground pools, standalone spas, all have few worries about CSI.

Then you get to the minority with plaster pools and CSI becomes a concern primarily for those in dry high CH regions.

Sorry to hear your plaster got trashed by poor water chemistry. That is not the only way to trash a pool with mismanagement.

 

[Ahultin]

I had a question that ive been meaning to ask but never have. Are the results from the Electronic pH meters (aphera ph60 in my case) skewed by fc >10 like the drop test is?

 

[mknauss]

I had a question that ive been meaning to ask but never have. Are the results from the Electronic pH meters (aphera ph60 in my case) skewed by fc >10 like the drop test is?

No

 

[duraleigh]

Advising to leave pH alone unless it goes out of the range of 7-8 is an oversimplification of pH management.

I don't think so......I think it is micromanaging [Edit.....if you try to refine it further] and you have no means of knowing of success or failure.

We have hi-jacked this thread badly but it is a good topic perhaps for deep end discussion if someone want to start a thread. Let's keep this one for strictly discussing the various testers,

 

[Skenn81]

As much as I love the deep end of everything, usually for me that means fixing my flapper and adjusting the sweeper on my Polaris.

I think for now I will just stick to the drops, they have done their job for years and I don't really mind them all that much. Good chat though, a lot of stuff to process. I put in my refill order and added some extra 004 for good measure instead of getting an electronic tester.

 

[newdude]

Good chat though, a lot of stuff to process

+1. And although it stayed off the original topic, the 'why' discussion that ensued is totally part of the equation and will help future folks wondering if they too need a PH meter.

Maybe they have an above ground pool or a hot tub and didn't realize they didn't need the extra help it may provide. Or that CSI does matter for them and it may help. The 'off topic-ness' will make them think a little further.

 

[duraleigh]

I think for now I will just stick to the drops, they have done their job for years and I don't really mind them all that much.

That's a good choice.

If it ain't broke...........

Or my favorite,( "if it aint broke keep on fixin' it until it is!)

 

[abfab]

I bought the yellow one but even after calibrating it was way off from my Taylor drop test - brand new reagents bought from them.