Does anybody know what this is and how to fix it?

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rfra0525

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Aug 2, 2017
16
Charlotte, NC
Hey guys - I'm new to the forum. I've done some reading and I wish I had known this sooner but it appears that ionizer systems (which is what I was sold) create issues in pools. Is this possibly leading to this speckling/discoloration?

Pool.jpg

FC - 3
TC - 3
Calcium Hardness - 240 (I was getting a reading of 380 with Taylor Test kit)
CYA - 40
TA - 100 (I was getting a reading of 60 with Taylor Test Kit)
PH - 7.5
Copper - 0 PPM
Iron - 0 PPM
Total Dissolved Solids - 1000
Phosphates - 1000 (Leslie indicates that this is high and that I need to use a product called PHOSFree)

Does anybody know what this white speckling is and how to stop it from happening and get rid of the speckling that has already appeared? I have an inground pool with aplaster finish and I have noticed this speckling recently.

My Calcium hardness keeps slowly climbing...it's currently at 380 and it seems I have to drain about 15% of the water out every month or two to maintain a hardness of around 300. I'm not sure if the high calcium hardness level is causing the issue. I've been keeping alkalinity at 60 PPM. I keep scale inhibitor in the pool and algaecide.

Any thoughts or ideas?
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the forum!

Do you know where your CSI is?

Please post a complete set of test results so we can better answer your questions. Please include:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Also, please tell us exactly what additives you have used in the pool.
 
Thank you!

I'm not sure what my CSI is or how to measure it. I may need to go get my water tested at a pool store but for now I used a test strip in order to help answer some of your questions. I know that my CH is around 380 PPM and Alkalinity around 60 PPM (i took both measurements yesterday with Taylor Test Kit)

Additives that I have used: Sea Kleer 90 day Algae Prevention for Pools, In The Swim brand 3" chlorine tablets, In The Swim brand 1 lb bag of shock, Scale Free Plus, Muriatic Acid, Baking Soda. I think that's it...

Pool1.jpg
 
Okay I have some readings that I got from Leslie Pool Supply tonight

FC - 3
TC - 3
Calcium Hardness - 240 (I was getting a reading of 380 with Taylor Test kit)
CYA - 40
TA - 100 (I was getting a reading of 60 with Taylor Test Kit)
PH - 7.5
Copper - 0 PPM
Iron - 0 PPM
Total Dissolved Solids - 1000
Phosphates - 1000 (Leslie indicates that this is high and that I need to use a product called PHOSFree)

Based on pool math (if i did it right), my CSI is .04
One other thing to know about my pool is that it is an ionizer cleaning system (it's not a chlorine pool or a salt pool). The company that installed it was referring to it as a "Zinc system" I think. I'm just mentioning this because I'm not sure if it changes any of the recommendations.

With all of this in mind - do you know what these spots might be and/or how to get rid of them? Also, is it possible that my reagents are bad and that I need to order a new test kit? My readings are way off it seems.
 
rfra0525 said:
Okay I have some readings that I got from Leslie Pool Supply tonight

FC - 3
TC - 3
Calcium Hardness - 240 (I was getting a reading of 380 with Taylor Test kit)
CYA - 40
TA - 100 (I was getting a reading of 60 with Taylor Test Kit)
PH - 7.5
Copper - 0 PPM
Iron - 0 PPM
Total Dissolved Solids - 1000
Phosphates - 1000 (Leslie indicates that this is high and that I need to use a product called PHOSFree)

Based on pool math (if i did it right), my CSI is .04
One other thing to know about my pool is that it is an ionizer cleaning system (it's not a chlorine pool or a salt pool). The company that installed it was referring to it as a "Zinc system" I think. I'm just mentioning this because I'm not sure if it changes any of the recommendations.

With all of this in mind - do you know what these spots might be and/or how to get rid of them? Also, is it possible that my reagents are bad and that I need to order a new test kit? My readings are way off it seems.
Click to expand...
Which model # Taylor kit do you have? Is it the K2006?

We really do not trust pool $tore testing, unfortunately it has proven to be unreliable and not accurate at all. Same goes for test strips, especially for CYA.

Your pool is a chlorine pool, as you add chlorine right? Ionizers and mineral systems are not sanitizers, and do not carry EPA registration as a sanitizer, chlorine is in fact an EPA registered sanitizer.

Please post a complete set of test results from your test kit, and confirm which kit you have. At that point we can re-calculate CSI.

I really think that what you see is flakes of calcium.

In a well balanced pool, you will not need any of those 'pool $tore potions'. Also, don't worry about phosphates, they are irrelevant in a properly sanitized pool. Sure, algae will eat phosphates, but if the pool is properly sanitized there is no algae. That's like a 5-star buffet in an empty building full of chlorine gas.... sure, there's a lot of great food in there, but nobody would survive long enough to eat it.
 
Is the plaster a plain white marble plaster?

How old is the plaster?

Try some vitamin C on a spot.

I'm thinking that the plaster might be white and the dark is metal stains (zinc, copper, silver).
 
The plaster color is called "French Gray"... the little white spots are what I'm concerned about. The plaster is about 9 months old. The pool finished construction in Dec 2016. It is possible that a pool store potion sat on the plaster without being dissolved but I usually read the directions first to see if I need to dilute it, etc. I haven't put any pool store potions in the water in awhile though and these spots just started popping up this week.

I have been using a Taylor Test Kit but I think it's old and that I need to get a new one.

Yes, the pool is a chlorine pool but it uses an ionizer. I was instructed to keep it at 1-3 PPM chlorine.

Is there a difference between the Taylor Test Kit K2006 and the Taylor Test Kit K2006-C?

Good to know about the phosphates, I appreciate that information!
 

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Okay guys - i just tested the water myself with the new TFT-100 Test Kit and Speed Stir that I purchased. Here is what I got:

CH - 400
TA - 50-60
CYA - 100? I'm not sure if i did this right but i followed directions closely and i think I did it right
FC 3.5
TC 3.5
PH 7.2

With these measurements in mind - do you guys think that the speckling is calcium? I have drained some water out today and the pool is refilling now with hose water that is about 20 PPM Calcium Hardness.

Is there a way that I can easily reverse the speckling? will it reverse itself once the calcium hardness goes down?

Additionally - is my CYA high? How do I lower it?
 
Once your pool is refilled and the pump has run for a few hours to mix, do another CYA test using Step 8 - Pool School - CYA

From your data the CSI should not be in scaling tendency. But your water change (if significant) will only help.

Take care.
 
Quick question about that - i have the ionizer/chlorine combination and I was told to keep chlorine at 1-3 PPM by the person that installed my pool. He's been wrong about a bunch of stuff so I don't really have great faith in what he tells me. Should I disregard what he said about 1-3 PPM chlorine?
 
The ionizer is not worth the electricity it uses. Chlorine is the only sanitizer accepted by the EPA and health departments.

You need to follow the Chlorine / CYA chart - Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Please do not follow the 1-3 ppm chlorine thing with CYA in the water. It is not enough to sanitize the water.

Take care.
 
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