Hi, my puppy chewed the cord to pieces on the Hayward Salt Cell. I have a 15,000-gallon pool. The cell I have is a T-15. I'm assuming the cord cannot be replaced and I need to order a neq salt cell. I see that the T-15 is for a 40k gallon pool. Just wondering would a T-3 or T-9 work. Is the T-15 overkill? TIA
Do I need a T-15 cell?
- Thread starter aztony
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,592
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
We recommend you get an oversized cell. With a T-15 you can generate the CL you need while running your pump 6 hours or less. With a smaller cell you will need longer pump run times to generate the same amount of CL.
A larger cell should last longer as long as your puppy does not chew the cord again.
A larger cell should last longer as long as your puppy does not chew the cord again.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,592
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
With a pump run of 8 hours a T-3 could not generate enough CL running at 100%; a T-9 would barely do it running at 100%; you would likely run the T-15 at around 40-50% for 8 hours.
I've been pricing a new T-15 and saw some generic ones pop up. Just wondering if anyone has bought them or has experience with them. Are they any better or worse?
There's presently someone selling a T-15 on Ebay for parts only for short money. It may be possible to swap the cord with connector at the cell. I'm not familiar with the cell but the photo shows a small plastic cover where the cord is attached and it's possible that cap may simply snap-off and the connections could be remade. Worst-case the middle of the cord could be pieced-in if both ends of your cord are intact. Something to think about considering the cost of a full replacement. If the multiple wires are color coded then reattachment might be straight forward. Then again, if your cell is old and near end-of-life then maybe it's best to simply replace it.
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,789
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Update: I ordered a new T-15 off of Amazon. Took a couple of weeks to get here from CA. Issues with delivery. Anyway, installed it a little over a week ago along with new o-rings. I've been having a problem getting the water chems balanced. The water temp keeps reading Cold, except for yesterday. When I do the pH test the color is yellow, salt is at 3000. They're the only two tests I've done. The salt was reading low at the beginning, I'm asuming because there was no SWG for a few weeks and having some rain. Actually, I used an old SWG that I had replaced just to have the water circulate every day. Wondering should I do the other tests or work on the pH first? Do I need to shock the pool? The water looks good. Water temp is reading 50F, that's why the reading says cold.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,730
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You need a proper test kit for your water chemistry levels.
Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.
For salinity the best is a Taylor K1766. There are strips that are OK. Right now with cold water, I would turn off the SWCG and use liquid chlorine to maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA chart in Pool School.
Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.
For salinity the best is a Taylor K1766. There are strips that are OK. Right now with cold water, I would turn off the SWCG and use liquid chlorine to maintain your FC based on the FC/CYA chart in Pool School.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,592
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
SWG will not operate when water that cold. Use liquid chlorine and treat your pool as a non-swg pool until the water warms up.
We do not “shock” pools. If you suspect you picked up algea then do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or have CCs 1 or above then you need to follow the SLAM Process process.
Do a complete set of tests with your TF-100 and post the results.
We do not “shock” pools. If you suspect you picked up algea then do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you fail the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or have CCs 1 or above then you need to follow the SLAM Process process.
Do a complete set of tests with your TF-100 and post the results.
Do I let the pump run and turn the SWG off until the water warms up? Is it okay to do all the tests with the water cold?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,592
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, run the pump and turn off the SWG. Maintain your FC level with liquid chlorine.
Yes. CYA test water should be taken inside and let rise to room temperature.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,730
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You only need to run your pump during cold water times enough to skim the surface and mix any chemicals (liquid chlorine and/or acid). I only run mine a couple hours a day when the water temperature is below 60F. Once it reaches 60F, I turn on the SWCG and run the pump enough to generate the chlorine I need.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,592
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Add chlorine to get your FC to 6-8ppm ASAP.
Raise your pH & TA with soda ash. Use PoolMath to calculate dosages.
From Recommended Pool Chemicals
Just to be sure I have the correct chems. I have Borax detergent booster and chlorinating liquid. Are those what I need?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,592
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Borax raises the PH and also raises the TA level just a little. If your TA level is low soda ash will raise both the PH and TA levels.
You need to raise both pH and TA so soda ash is preferred.
I don’t know if Borax chlorinating liquid has no additives. You have to read the label or post pics.
Last edited:
The chlorinating liquid is KemTek 10% sodium hypochlorite, 90% other. Borax is the detergent booster, only sodium tetraborate