Do I have a problem come winter?

[Methuselah]

We had a recent misadventure, turning down temperature from 100 to 97 and getting impatient waiting for it to drop...

Better half and I decided nope, we LIKE it at 100.

So, what I noticed is putting it back to 100 did NOT run the heater while we were using the tub. Didn't matter what speed either, no heat. The only way it turned on the heater was when it engaged in polling, and even then, off the heater went if you turned the pump on high (it then waited for the next polling cycle).

So here's what's got me concerned; Link

If we use it in winter won't it have the same issue? Is there a mode we are unaware of, or is this just the way certain manufacturers set up the tubs? It's a Balboa controller so I'm thinking this may be configurable?

 

[CuckooChris]

It would be best to post the model # of the controller and all of the specifics about the system. You need to know what gauge wire is going to the tub and what size breaker it is on, also what wattage heating element you have. My Balboa is configurable and there are settings as to when it heats and at what speed the pump is when it heats. I believe there was also a "mode" setting that selects when it heats. If I remember correctly, there was a setting where it would only heat during the 2hr filter cycle. I changed mine to heat whenever it needed, just can't remember the name of the cycle right now. There is also a switch that you can select to only heat on low speed or low AND high speed.

Here's the link to a manual. You may be in 'Ec' mode. 'St' mode will keep the spa at the set temp all of the time. https://www.spadepot.com/docs/3-4-Button-Topside-Control-Operation-Directions.pdf

 

[RDspaguy]

Stop worrying. It's doing what it's designed to do. It disables the heater when jets are on high to reduce the amp draw so you don't trip your breaker. SOP for most spas. You can change it on most, but would need the higher rated wire and breaker for it to work.
"Polling" stops "cycling", where your pump and heater turn on for 30 seconds every 5 minutes. Very hard on equipment, especially circuit board relays.

 

[Methuselah]

Stop worrying. It's doing what it's designed to do. It disables the heater when jets are on high to reduce the amp draw so you don't trip your breaker. SOP for most spas. You can change it on most, but would need the higher rated wire and breaker for it to work.
"Polling" stops "cycling", where your pump and heater turn on for 30 seconds every 5 minutes. Very hard on equipment, especially circuit board relays.

I know! ("stop worrying")

What bothers me the most is when I bought a top of the line stereo it had the schematic on the back page, my televisions had a schematic in the back, and even the cars had manuals you could purchase reasonably priced. We spent 12,000 and the only schematic is a block diagram buried inside it.

I had called Balboa requesting a service manual and they treated me like I had two heads! It's always been difficult to impossible to obtain stuff like the programming for the board's eeprom but this world's just gone bozowacky.

So there, I said it. I reckon I'm always the guy who wants to "do more than the universe wants me to".

On amps, I'd have to pull the tables back up, but I did run wiring myself --- went on the cheap and just put what they recommended despite seeing a warning on youtube where one guy always ran 4 AWG, but I ran 6 AWG because I'm a cheapskate and my neighbor's work had tossed a spool of it about a decade ago. So it's 6 AWG and a 50A breaker, plus 50A disconnect/GFCI outside with the tub.

So anyway I agree with you, 10A on high with the main pump, 4 kw heater (4000/220 = 18.2A), and if (IF) the board allowed the aux pump another 10 A = 38A. 80% derating on 50 = 40A, very close but timed to a 15 minute cycle seems smack in the grey area. But, if I'm in there dead of winter (not likely) and the water temp is dropping, well, given a proper service manual I'd seriously consider rigging the darn thing for two "extra" modes, 1) heat with the main pump and aux drops the heater relay, or 2) forced polling mode. Alas, no service manual, no programming info. Pity is for decades you can buy a drop-in eeprom for your car, but not you hot tub.

Yeah you are 1000% right, I worry too much. Maybe I've lived too long but I remember when, well, I'm not going there.

I will say this though, because I'm handy (programming, electronics, electrical, plumbing, small/large appliances, cars, small engine, carpentry, HVAC), I'll be right back in the thick of things the minute a new situation comes up, like *dosing when I'm on vacation or eventual repairs when the circuit board relays get tired of doing their thing.

@RDspaguy, I've been reading through this entire forum sub-group, hot tubs, and very much appreciate what you do here. I've seen you take some flack from other so-called experts on occasion and it seems (very) undeserved. Thank you for your reply, and thank you for being here. You are an absolute treasure.

Methuselah

* was looking at this.

 

[RDspaguy]

A balboa system has readily available manuals, but they are user manuals. The tech manual IS the label on the box cover. No spa control manufacturer will release their electronics schematics, and Balboa tech support is for authorized balboa dealers, not consumers, and in most cases will tell you to contact a dealer. You did not buy from balboa, you bought from a dealer, so call them. The dealer bought from balboa, so they can call balboa.
#6 wire is fine.
Yeah, some folks here have a real problem with pool and spa professionals. Guess they had a bad experience or can't handle being contradicted. I'm only here as a result of some helpful guys on a diesel forum. I can't repay their help as I am no diesel guru, but I can pay it forward.

 

[Mdragger88]

Not to balk at your concerns but, the dead of Alabama winter is a whole lot different than even regular winter up north. I am in North MS & have a 110v spa that cannot heat & run the jets at the same time & used it throughout the last few “polar vortex/snowmageddon” situations that we’ve had the last couple years with no issues. My solution: I set the tub to be a little hotter in the winter to account for the temp dropping due to the ambient temp. By the time it’s starting to get too cool for my liking (around 100) I’m ready to get out anyway.