Do I even need a valve?

[Mdragger88]

Uh oh
Is it possible to return it for some a little larger?

 

[Richie-Czech]

Uh oh
Is it possible to return it for some a little larger?
View attachment 645308

Yeah, I saw that page as I was going back to TFP website while I was standing in front of my filter seeing it be too fine.
It is from Amazon and it does say "free returns," though the folks at WF return desk will be not pleased. Luckily I only opened one bag.
I think I would need 0.65 at the least. I guess I mistakenly though that all #20 is created equal, clearly not. For example Aquaqartz at Leslie's doesn't seem to list grain size.

I am wanting to finish this thing hopefully tonight and start running it. Temps are rising and pool (because of the concrete pad pour etc) has been sitting for 3 days without circulation.

The issue I'm having is I cannot find any other options for Mystic White II even online (the different sizes), much less on Amazon or somewhere with quick access. None show the size on the packaging with the exception of the 0.49, which I now know is too fine.
If I want to get this filled today, given limited options available, would you go with HTH #20 (Ace) or Aquaquartz #20 (Leslie's) or no-name brand (Watson's)?
I'm getting bit frustrated with how many pieces of the puzzle there are if you're wanting to do it right and right the first time.

Doheny's customer chat says to "send it" and if there is blow by they'll replace or refund the filter. I don't see how there wouldn't be blow-by from the pictures above if I use the MW II.
They recommend Aquaquartz for that filter (which I assume would be similar issue) or Zeolite, which in my mind is no go.

 

[phonedave]

I had the Kaplan valves in my cart ready to arrive, but on very short notice changed it for the Pentair ones.
I keep being told ball valves are no bueno, so by the time I pay $40 for a 2" Kaplan, decided to pay $50 for a 2" Pentair I guess.

There is nothing inherently wrong with ball valves. It is cheap valves (of any configuration) that are the issue. Most of the ball valves sold at big box stores are pool quality and are not rebuildable. The Kaplan valves are very good, have reversable seals, are rebuildable, and if you ever decided to go crazy - are actuator ready.

I have only single skimmer and single return. No other equipment or water features. This pump should hopefully run under very light load now.

I do have a question for I guess everyone to see if my plumbing makes sense and some questions:

1) I will keep a simple single 90deg directly to pump. Pump comes with unions, which is great. Would you for the return notch into the deck to be able to run virtually a single 90deg, or would you go from filter down under deck with 1x 90, up with another 90 and then 90deg to the wall of the return? I know / think you're not supposed to have more than 3x 90deg in one line right?
Nothing the deck shouldn't be an issue, but seems risky. I think the pad will make the MPV sit just tish too high to clear all decking without cutting or 90s. I don't want to do flex pipe anymore.
View attachment 644754

I'm not sure what you are asking here. My suction side comes straight down from my skimmer, 90 degrees to horizontal, and then an 90 left turn into the pump skimmer. My return comes out of the top of my filter, 90 degrees down towards the ground, 90 to a horizontal run, 90 back to vertical, through my salt cell, and then 90 degrees into my return. I have no issues with any kind of flow.

2) Unions - pump has union on basket side and on the filter side. If I do a valve between skimmer and basket (to clean out basket) and one between filter and return, I should be good? I might even get away with just one valve and closing MPV. That should stop water from pool to fill the basket from either direction, but a valve on return side would allow me to isolate all equipment without use of rubber stoppers (which I don't mind, really).

I guess I don't understand unions enough. My thought was it helps with removal of equipment. Pump might stay outside, not sure yet. In any case it has unions on both sides, so that's fine.
I don't think putting unions on each side of the Pentair valve makes sense though, does it? Because don't you glue in a pipe into the valve anyway, in which case union does really provide any value?
Or is it so it can be "spun" in place while you remove piping from the filter for example?

Please see below my plan and tell me if it is silly.
I think valve 1 (V1) on skimmer side is must. V2 on the return side is optional, I'd think (stoppers might do).
U1 and U2 are unions on the pump.
Do I need U3 and U4, i.e. unions on the filter? I think I need a 1-1/4" threaded fitting adapter into 2" PVC, but not sure if I want unions here too?

View attachment 644766

Unions make it easy to take things apart. Or, more accurately, easy to take things apart when you cannot slide things forwards or back, only side to side. I gave up on unions a few season ago and switched to camlock fittings. I can disconnect and reconnect camlocks in a fraction of the time I can with a union. My only unions are on my salt cell, because that is how it comes. Camlocks are only an option if you can slide your equipment forwards and back.

Where you place unions is dependent on what you want to bring in for the winter, and what you want to leave outside. My whole setup (pump, filter, and valves, and salt cell) all come inside for the winter, so my set up is designed accordinly.

 

[Richie-Czech]

There is nothing inherently wrong with ball valves. It is cheap valves (of any configuration) that are the issue. Most of the ball valves sold at big box stores are pool quality and are not rebuildable. The Kaplan valves are very good, have reversable seals, are rebuildable, and if you ever decided to go crazy - are actuator ready.


I'm not sure what you are asking here. My suction side comes straight down from my skimmer, 90 degrees to horizontal, and then an 90 left turn into the pump skimmer. My return comes out of the top of my filter, 90 degrees down towards the ground, 90 to a horizontal run, 90 back to vertical, through my salt cell, and then 90 degrees into my return. I have no issues with any kind of flow.

Unions make it easy to take things apart. Or, more accurately, easy to take things apart when you cannot slide things forwards or back, only side to side. I gave up on unions a few season ago and switched to camlock fittings. I can disconnect and reconnect camlocks in a fraction of the time I can with a union. My only unions are on my salt cell, because that is how it comes. Camlocks are only an option if you can slide your equipment forwards and back.

Where you place unions is dependent on what you want to bring in for the winter, and what you want to leave outside. My whole setup (pump, filter, and valves, and salt cell) all come inside for the winter, so my set up is designed accordinly.

For the valves, yes, cheapos are no go, been there, done that on the old equipment. The Kaplans were $40/ea, Pentair $50/ea, so I just got a Pentair gate valve.

The amount of 90s was my question. My intake will have just one 90, i.e. from vertical to horizontal. One 90 between pump and filter, as expected. Pump has unions on both ends of it, so that should be good for removing for winter if I do that. My return is where my question was. I would need to go 90 down from filter to clear deck, another 90 up diagonally towards pool wall and another 90 to enter via the return. So total of 3 90s, should be fine. Im trying to reduce gluing etc, as that's clearly a potentially failure point.

I didn't even think of cam locks. I have them on my animal tanks, so maybe I ought to look into those. But I think I might be fine without them. Once everything is glued in on the return side, that will stay there for a long time. And pump can be moved with the existing unions.

My main problem is the sand now, as stated above. The Doheny's service chat said to "send it" and if there's issues, they'll refund or replace the filter. They call for #20 media, which MW II .49/20 is, but I don't get how it possibly could work without blow-by through laterals. Rolling the lateral in a palm full of send embedded sand into the gaps and some even went through I think, which for sure would happen once system is under pressure I think.

I know backwash is needed before it's put into service. Is it then going to wash out all the smaller particles?