no, it passed t he test but now wednesday. it went BACK to being greenish. as a matter of fact its worse for some reason. I didn't know my pump wasn't running 24/7. The display is hard to read and I now know the driver needs replaced. for example, this morning I measured the fC at over 18 and just now it was 8 and pool is super cloudy.
dirt and a greenish tint
- Thread starter Markjohns
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You passed all three criteria to end the SLAM?
Does not really matter, if you are seeing algae, go back to the SLAM Process
Does not really matter, if you are seeing algae, go back to the SLAM Process
i cant go back right if have to run the pump 24/7 correct? if that is the case I need to get the driver on the pump replaced as I cannot see the display numbers to change it. also, if I run 24/7 what speeds should I run 1.2, 3 intervals? I dont want my electric bill to be any higher than
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
24/7 helps speed up the process. What kind of pump do you have? I have never heard of a Pentax pump.
Add chlorine. Maintain at SLAM level several times per day. Get your pump repaired or replaced.
Add chlorine. Maintain at SLAM level several times per day. Get your pump repaired or replaced.
Mark, your pool isn’t going to clear up unless you get the pump working where you can run it as long as needed, and unless you test FC every few hours and add chlorine to get It to SLAM level, and brush every surface regularly, including stairs and crevices.
Think about this... how is the algae going to die if there isn’t enough chlorine in the water, long enough to kill every spore? How is the dead stuff going to be removed if the filter isn’t being used (meaning the pump is running)?
It shouldn’t make a big difference I; your electric bill, but even so, how much more will it cost you if you don’t SLAM the pool, and then keep it clean afterward?
Think about this... how is the algae going to die if there isn’t enough chlorine in the water, long enough to kill every spore? How is the dead stuff going to be removed if the filter isn’t being used (meaning the pump is running)?
It shouldn’t make a big difference I; your electric bill, but even so, how much more will it cost you if you don’t SLAM the pool, and then keep it clean afterward?
ok, here we try again but more questions. yesterday I added just a tad bit more than recommended to get to 22 FC per pool math and waited over 1hour and tested the water, it was 34. this morning 8.5 hours later it ws 25. the pool looks 100x better. I notice that the water level is low, not even close to half up the skimmer, so I added water. Now, according to pool math my target is 20-22. should I just leave alone til later or add more chlorine. Also, what do you think about getting some calcium hypochlorite shock? I am spending a small fortune on liquid chlorine.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Cal Hypo in Arizona should be banned. Your calcium levels go very high due to evaporation.
Please read and follow the SLAM Process. No where in there does it say to raise FC above SLAM level.
Please read and follow the SLAM Process. No where in there does it say to raise FC above SLAM level.
I didn't do on purpose. it called for 2 gallons and just over 3 quarts. I added 3 gallons. thats not much over the recommended dosage.
I am a member of nextdoor app here in Glendale, aZ. there are about 20 people who are saying the same thing I am saying. The algae goes away then comes back. literally the same type and the same symptoms that I have been discussing for a week now so its not just me. 
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- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,206
- Pool Size
- 27000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Unfortunately it sounds like 20 people who aren't SLAMming their pools. I wholeheartedly believe it's not just you. Many people could benefit from a proper SLAM.
My point is sometimes slamming doesnt work. I followed to a TEE the process, it went away then 3 day later it was back. it looked great for 2 days then bam,right back to greenish, I kept the FC level above the recommended 7-9 during the post slam
SLAMming absolutely does work. it requires following the instructions, not ending it too soon, and then doing proper upkeep afterward. But that depends on you.
Something is off in your calculations in Pool Math - perhaps the volume of your pool, or the strength of the chlorine you are using. You shouldn’t be so far off the FC you are trying to reach if the parameters you put in are correct, and you add what Pool Math is telling you to add.
Something is off in your calculations in Pool Math - perhaps the volume of your pool, or the strength of the chlorine you are using. You shouldn’t be so far off the FC you are trying to reach if the parameters you put in are correct, and you add what Pool Math is telling you to add.
I am doing exactly what the test gives and what pool math says. today was better. Last night before bed it was 20, this morning 14 BUT...... I also tested the PH and that's cleearly 8.2 or more. should I add some muriatic acid?
Mark
Mark
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
thank you for that info. I did TA and it was 170, the solution turned to yellow. So I assume just leave it alone then? Mark
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No need to address anything during a SLAM except add chlorine.
Once you pass the three criteria, then address pH, TA, etc.
Once you pass the three criteria, then address pH, TA, etc.
Whats the forums thoughts on lowering phosphate levels to treat algae and also what's the difference between chlorine granules and liquid-besides the obvious of course.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Phosphates are rarely an issue. If you wish to see if you have enough to bother, get a Taylor 1106 test kit. If they are above 2000 ppb, you can address them with a quality remover.
You are in AZ. With high calcium fill water, you should never consider using solid chlorine, aka Calcium Hypochlorite. Dichlor is worse, adding CYA very quickly.
You are in AZ. With high calcium fill water, you should never consider using solid chlorine, aka Calcium Hypochlorite. Dichlor is worse, adding CYA very quickly.