Digital Water Tester

Oct 7, 2015
86
Adelaide, Australia
Hi,
I have recently acquired a digital pool tester, mainly for the results for pH as I'm so colour-challenged, and also for salt readings. The tester also gives results for ORP, TDS, and temperature levels. While I know what my test reading results should be for a balanced pool using this tester, It gives no hints as to what to do if test results are high or low, and what and how many chemicals to use to adjust these results.

Is anyone aware of an app or formula for converting these readings into results I could punch into the TFP pool math app?

I do have an Aussie Clear Choice test kit, but I really struggle with it, not because it's not good, it's just me. So for some time, I have been going to the local pool shop to have my tests done, but we all know how inaccurate those tests can be.

Cheers,
John
 
What manufacturer and model digital pool tester do you have?

Can you post links to its manual?

@mgtfp @aussieta may be familiar with what is sold in your country.
 
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What manufacturer and model digital pool tester do you have?

Can you post links to its manual?

@mgtfp @aussieta may be familiar with what is sold in your country.
Hi,
Thanks that was very quick.
This is the model I have, but currently, they are out of stock, as they are pushing another tester which is quadruple the price. It came with minimal instructions and was mainly for calibration etc.

Cheers,
John
 
With CYA in your pool water, the ORP reading won't provide good results.
TDS is mostly worthless for TFP methods.

The pH and water temp can be used.
You will need to calibrate the pH meter, and keep it calibrated.

Input your results for pH and water temp into PoolMath - along with the other results from your Clear Choice test kit. You can then use PoolMath and adjust your chem levels as needed given your results and your needed levels.
 
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Unfortunately the only tests that your meter may be useful for are pH and salt. And then only if you are confident the meter stays properly calibrated.

There is no way to derive an accurate FC level from an ORP reading.

We don't care about TDS and do care about the TA, CH, and CYA levels that the meter cannot measure.

You really need to get comfortable using your CCL test kit for TFP methods.
 
With CYA in your pool water, the ORP reading won't provide good results.
TDS is mostly worthless for TFP methods.
Oh, I was not aware of that.
Input your results for pH and water temp into PoolMath - along with the other results from your Clear Choice test kit. You can then use PoolMath and adjust your chem levels as needed given your results and your needed levels.
Yes, I had toyed with that idea, but I need to rely on other people's help for doing the readings, but hey yeah I will give it another try, so thanks for that.

Cheers,
John
 
Unfortunately the only tests that your meter may be useful for are pH and salt. And then only if you are confident the meter stays properly calibrated.

There is no way to derive an accurate FC level from an ORP reading.
Yes, I'm starting to get that feeling. :)
We don't care about TDS and do care about the TA, CH, and CYA levels that the meter cannot measure.

You really need to get comfortable using your CCL test kit for TFP methods.
I'm hearing you, and have come to the sudden realisation that I may not have made the best of choices in buying it.

Cheers,
John
 
There is no real way around the CCL kit.

For pH, an electronic meter is an alternative, but it's crucial to keep it well calibrated, which requires extra solutions. I also recommend to always store it in storage solution. In my case (Apera PH60) this is 3 molar KCl solution, check what's required for your multi parameter thingy.

For salt, I would use an actual salt meter, not a TDS meter, if at all. That can be an option to track relative changes inbetween proper tests with the CCL kit.
 
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There is no real way around the CCL kit.
I'm getting that idea.
I also recommend to always store it in storage solution.
No solution to keep mine in. I wash it off with distilled water and airdry it. But I do check the calibration on it frequently.
For salt, I would use an actual salt meter, not a TDS meter, if at all. That can be an option to track relative changes inbetween proper tests with the CCL kit.
Seems like a plan. I was looking at your brand of tester.

Cheers,
John
 
pH probes are quite sensitive to drying out. When stored dry, they lose their calibration, become less responsive and will have a reduced lifetime. Apera recommends to store their probes in KCl solution, or at least with a drop of water in the cap. When dried out, they need to be refreshed by soaking in KCl.

Not sure how compatible that is with the storage requirements of the other integrated probes.
 
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The tester also gives results for ORP, TDS, and temperature levels.

It gives no hints as to what to do if test results are high or low, and what and how many chemicals to use to adjust these results.
Nobody addressed the temperature, and this one we can do. If it tests high, you need ice. If it tests low, you need to wait for spring to come again. ;)
 
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Also nobody addressed the reason TDS is a junk stat. Look at these two results that both show 3800 TDS. (ignoring the other parameters just for an example)

Salt 3500
CH 300

Salt 300
CH 3500

They both tell an entirely different story and the parts of the equation are the key, not the sum of the equation. 3800 is meaningless unless you are draining with a no drain water exchange. For those you need to know how heavy the water is compared to the fill water. The parts don't matter whether it's Salt, CH, etc, just the 3800.
 
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Oh, I was not aware of that.

Yes, I had toyed with that idea, but I need to rely on other people's help for doing the readings, but hey yeah I will give it another try, so thanks for that.

Maybe we can help you with the CCL kit instead? Many people think it’s harder than it really is and once you get some tips on it, lots of the complexity goes away. Maybe try one of the tests and post the results with a couple pictures of what’s difficult.
 
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I can relate to the CCL pH test being hard to read. Their comparator truly sucks. Having ordered a Taylor comparator from the US was a revelation. I'm still using mainly my meter, but the drop test is now at least an option.
 
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As others have stated ORP isn’t particularly useful in a residential scenario and even when in use in commercial automated chemical delivery applications it IS NOT a replacement for consistent reliable free and total chlorine testing. In the right scenario it can be a useful tool to generally indicate how much HOCl is available in the water or how much oxidant demand there is, but the testing must be performed at a consistent PH, Temperature, and CYA level.

If not all factors are set at a consistent level when the ORP testing is performed (particularly PH) the ORP baseline shifts and your readings are effectively useless as an estimate of HOCl in the water. Many factors can affect ORP levels including PH, water temperature, CYA, oxidant demand, and FC levels in the water. Usually when ORP is used as a basis for chemical delivery other automated systems are also put into place to control the other variables in an effort to maintain consistent results. A vast majority of residential pools don’t have those systems in place.

There are a lot more rabbit holes regarding ORP that could be gone down, but in reality for residential use it’s far quicker and simpler to use a good test kit to provide reliable test results for chemical adjustments.
 
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Unfortunately these multi parameter meters are a dime a dozen, on ebay, Amazon etc. Without calibration they are really just a random number generator. Unfortunately you would have been better off investing your money on the smart stir and an Aussie gold kit for a pH comparator upgrade.

I stuggled with the pH test but a few tricks can help big time. Take a photo of the comparator and edit out everything but the sample and comparison windows and then choose the best match from the photo. Another good idea is blank white card in front of the comparator with a small rectangle cutout to isolate just one comparison window and sample. Move it up and down to select the best match.

 
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Also nobody addressed the reason TDS is a junk stat. Look at these two results that both show 3800 TDS. (ignoring the other parameters just for an example)

Salt 3500
CH 300

Salt 300
CH 3500

They both tell an entirely different story and the parts of the equation are the key, not the sum of the equation. 3800 is meaningless unless you are draining with a no drain water exchange. For those you need to know how heavy the water is compared to the fill water. The parts don't matter whether it's Salt, CH, etc, just the 3800.
I think I just understood some of that. :)

Cheers,
John
 
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