Differences in chem test results

There is no need to try to actively lower the TA unless you want something to do.

I would leave the CH and let it climb due to evaporation. Just keep the pH in the mid-upper 7s.

Yes, CYA will climb from the tablets, although the pH may also drop so keep an eye on that.
 
Your CYA is 55ppm right now. I would only use trichlor until you get up to 70ppm and then switch to liquid chlorine. You can use LC with and SWCG, I do it all the time when I want to "boost" my FC level a bit after the kiddos and in-laws swim and add their nasty bather waste to my awesome sparkly pool :(

Hmmmm, nasty well water you say. You should get it tested to see what's in it. Eventually you've got to add make up water to the pool and you need to know what your putting in it.

You can acid/aerate if you want. Honestly a TA of 140ppm is not bad. Your plaster needs it so, if it were me, I'd just let it ride. As you add acid each week (or daily :) ), the TA will come down along with the pH. I see no need to accelerate the process. Others may be of a different opinion.






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I'll look into a water test, but I'm thinking it's high in copper and iron. Nothing I can really do about that though.

Best to know the levels. Check with your municipal water department. Some of them may offer free water testing for residents. They can also suggest a proper lab.

Actually, there are some filtration devices that hook up to garden hoses that can be used to mitigate certain naturally occurring metals and water contaminants. Search around and you might find something that could work.


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FC: 0.5
PH: 8.2
CYA: 60

For some reason I can't keep my free chlorine up. Last week I put 6 tabs in the tri-chlor and turned it to a 3. That along with the shock kept the FC high all week. Towards the end of the week I noticed the FC drifting down to the lower limit so I bumped the setting on the Nature 2 up. Yesterday FC was 3, this afternoon it's at a 0.5. I have had the Nature 2 on the highest setting since yesterday.

As for the PH it was 7.8 yesterday and went up overnight. I'm going to the pool store or home depot to get acid tonight.
 
You are talking about a Nature 2 and a trichlor feeder and your signature lists a SWG ... I am confused as to what equipment you actually have :scratch:

You should be using bleach to ensure the FC level stays at acceptable levels.
 
You are talking about a Nature 2 and a trichlor feeder and your signature lists a SWG ... I am confused as to what equipment you actually have :scratch:

You should be using bleach to ensure the FC level stays at acceptable levels.
I have both. Like I mentioned before, with new plaster we need to wait a month before using the SWG. Will do a full test including CC shortly.
 

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Right ... hard to keep all the thread straight :hammer:

You should start actively keeping the pH in the 7s with muriatic acid, and ensuring there is enough FC with bleach.
Yea I have been, I just ran out of acid. If I get the TA to go down should the PH stay more stable?

And is there any reason that 6 1 pound pucks in the nature 2 wouldn't be providing enough chlorine? I'm thinking of just taking the pucks out and going with straight bleach. I just want to make sure nothing is wrong anywhere else.
 
You need to get more chlorine in the water. Careful with the trichlor tabs as they take time to register on the CYA test. If I were you, I would just use bleach to get the FC up to 4ppm at the very least.


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Because PBs follow the standard national pool recommendation of 1-4ppm FC without any regard to CYA. That is why TFP is so "radical" because we actually use science to tell us what the proper FC level is and not just historical precedence.

Are you following TFP or your PB? Sorry to sound short (I'm typing this mobile) but you can't mix the two.


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Because PBs follow the standard national pool recommendation of 1-4ppm FC without any regard to CYA. That is why TFP is so "radical" because we actually use science to tell us what the proper FC level is and not just historical precedence.
Yes, we are VERY cutting edge ... the FC/CYA science was documented in the 1970s :shock:
 
Are you following TFP or your PB? Sorry to sound short (I'm typing this mobile) but you can't mix the two.
There seem to be a bunch of rules for new plaster, I was asking in case lower FC is one of those rules.

It's getting close to time to add salt and start using the SWG. My CYA is at around 55, so I need to raise it a bit when the salt goes in.

I mistakenly bought Chlor-brite shock from the pool store before I found this website. Since chlor-brite is chlorine+stabilizer, can I just use that to bring up the CYA level?
 
Ok so it's been a month, and the guy the PB sends came out to put in the salt yesterday.

FC- 6.5
CYA - Around 60
Salt - 2800

FC was 4.5 before the salt was added, so the cell is making chlorine.

1) Should I wait a few days and monitor the FC before I change the % on the SWG? It rained all day yesterday so I don't know what the demand will be with sun/swimmers.
2) It is a simple adjustment on the SWG, right? The guy who came didn't really show me how to use it because I don't think he knew himself.
3) Should I add some CYA? I *think* it's around 60 but I'm still having a bit of trouble with the subjectiveness of that test.
4) Salt. I should probably add a few more bags right? The SWG manual says 3000ppm.
5) We also started the heat pump yesterday. With it running there are lots of air bubbles coming out of the returns. I bled the valve on the filter, but no air there just water. Is this anything to be concerned about?
 
I would leave stuff alone for now and just monitor. It sounds like you are about to get it dialed in so if you mess with it now, it may take a bit longer to fine tune.

Leave the CYA alone. Your very close to optimal. In a couple of weeks you will have a good feel whether to raise it or keep it right where it is
 

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