Didnt pass OCLT...need to drain more...HELP!!!!

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A

adeleincali

0
May 12, 2017
74
Temecula, CA
I am new, started out with high CYA, my T-2006 says over 100 and pool store says 290. So I rented a pump and drained around 75-85% of pool. I tested fill water and 0 CYA.

I then filled pool, re-took CYA and it was 85-90. Still high. I then did OCLT test and did not pass. Went from FC 18 to FC 13. Latest numbers are as follows:
This morning...
FC 13
CC 0
Yesterday...
pH 8
TA 180
CH 300

Water and pool look amazing, but I know I need to SLAM due to OCLT test. But, need to drain more water...again. UGH!!!

My question is I dont want to rent another pump from HD, I think I have drain in my equipment pad. How do I know and do that?

Also, potential algae could be coming from light that i noticed has water in it and is not working. How hard is that to take off? Should I get a pro?

THank you!!!!!
 
A,

When you did the OCLT did you test after sundown and before sunup???

If you have something that looks like a water faucet/hose bid in your pool plumbing, then this can be used to remove water from your pool. But keep in mind that once the water goes below the skimmer level your pump will run dry unless you have valves that allow you to turn off the skimmers and turn on just the main drain.

You can also put one end of a garden hose into the pool and the other end downhill somewhere. A little suction on the hose will cause it to siphon the water out of the pool. Slow but cheap method.

Usually, pool lights are held in by one screw at the top. Take the screw out and the entire light assembly will come out with enough cable to let you bring the assembly up on the deck.

I doubt any algae in the light would have such an impact on your FC. But I would take it out anyway.

Are you testing the CYA level in bright sunlight, with you back to the sun and hold the tube at waist level? You can't do this test inside or when real cloudy..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
A picture of the pad will help us figure things out in regards to a drain. What you might find helpful is to drain the spa into the pool so the pool level is real high and the spa is empty, and then start draining the pool while refilling the spa. That's what I do when I replace water to lower the CH buildup. In my pool, the spa equates to about 2" of pool depth. Your pool is a lot bigger, but it still helps.

The lightring may twist off, or there will be a screw probably on the bottom edge. You loosen the screw --it should be captive so it doesn't fall out -- and tilt the whole works up and then slip it out. It should have enough cord attached and wound up inside the niche to let you set it on the edge of the pool. Here's a few pics. Think I may have found my FC demand issue?

.
 
Jimrahbe said:
A,

When you did the OCLT did you test after sundown and before sunup? Yes and yes

If you have something that looks like a water faucet/hose bid in your pool plumbing, then this can be used to remove water from your pool. But keep in mind that once the water goes below the skimmer level your pump will run dry unless you have valves that allow you to turn off the skimmers and turn on just the main drain.Yes, I have a spigot..and valves, will post a picture of the pad.

You can also put one end of a garden hose into the pool and the other end downhill somewhere. A little suction on the hose will cause it to siphon the water out of the pool. Slow but cheap method.Haha...like siphoning our parents gas in high school!

Usually, pool lights are held in by one screw at the top. Take the screw out and the entire light assembly will come out with enough cable to let you bring the assembly up on the deck. Ok, I will shut off breaker before attempting this scary thing...

I doubt any algae in the light would have such an impact on your FC. But I would take it out anyway. Will do....

Are you testing the CYA level in bright sunlight, with you back to the sun and hold the tube at waist level? Yes...You can't do this test inside or when real cloudy..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your quick response!!!

- - - Updated - - -

Richard320 said:
A picture of the pad will help us figure things out in regards to a drain. What you might find helpful is to drain the spa into the pool so the pool level is real high and the spa is empty, and then start draining the pool while refilling the spa. That's what I do when I replace water to lower the CH buildup. In my pool, the spa equates to about 2" of pool depth. Your pool is a lot bigger, but it still heI like this idea...will post pad to show valves as I dont know how to do that.

The lightring may twist off, or there will be a screw probably on the bottom edge. You loosen the screw --it should be captive so it doesn't fall out -- and tilt the whole works up and then slip it out. It should have enough cord attached and wound up inside the niche to let you set it on the edge of the pool. Here's a few pics. Think I may have found my FC demand issue I knew about the "light" issue from reading that post yesterday actually, which is how I knew to bring it up!

.
Click to expand...
So appreciative of your help Richard!
 
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