What would you do about attaching the 2x4s to the deck framing? On the left, you could use 2x8s and offset sister the two. How about the others where your hand drawn ones start running diagonal to the joists?
Deck extension over pool rail
- Thread starter jamin35008
- Start date
I was going to use my Kreg jig and drill pocket holes to attach them to the joists.
The offset sisters would work to but cost more. I would also have to offset them going to the right and closer to the pool to make them perpendicular to the rail. I could cut a notch out over the fascia board.
The offset sisters would work to but cost more. I would also have to offset them going to the right and closer to the pool to make them perpendicular to the rail. I could cut a notch out over the fascia board.
CJadamec
TFP Expert
If your concerned about strength, notch the facia, not the joist.
What's the pullout force of the pocket hole & screws?
What's the pullout force of the pocket hole & screws?
Good point about notching the fascia. Not sure what the pull out force is. I'm sure there is something out there to attach the joist to the 2x4's.
My wife doesn't the thought of the step up so I guess I need to focus on the cantilever design. I'm just really worried about the strength. I could double up the joists like mentioned before and double up the fascia for added support.
Why not just take the facia off. Sister the joists with a 24" joist and cut all the ends like you show in post #13. I'd use 2x6". The left side will be perpendicular to the pool so those are easy. The right side will come off at a tangent but you could just cut the ends at an angle to match the pool wall angle. And then just put a narrow facia on to trim it out.
For the decking itself just use decking boards running parallel to the pool wall to make sort of a border affect.
Like this up by the lounge chairs:
For the decking itself just use decking boards running parallel to the pool wall to make sort of a border affect.
Like this up by the lounge chairs:
If I were going to try the cantilever idea (which I think I'am) then yes I would remove the fascia and in fact use old wood from the fascia for the new joists. I really like the boarder look on the last image. Here is my latest rendering of my plans. I think I would make each new joist perpendicular to the pool railing to minimize the length of each notch. The longer the notch the weaker it will be. Granted it means more work but in the end I these subject to least amount of stress as possible.
The yellow is the support beam.
The red are the new joists that will be the cantilever over the railing and attached to the new solid blocking.
The new solid blocking is green.
The black are the current joists.
The yellow is the support beam.
The red are the new joists that will be the cantilever over the railing and attached to the new solid blocking.
The new solid blocking is green.
The black are the current joists.
I think the step up as you have shown would be good. If it is big enough it will be seen as a second level of deck space, rather than a tripping hazard.
The more I think about it the more I think I'm going to attempt the cantilever idea as shown in my last post. For one I maybe able to modify the deck without removing the deck boards this way. Also wouldn't require raising the deck with a step.
I was worried about strength but as mentioned and shown in a previous post he also has the cantilever about 1.5" thick where mine will be 1 3/4-2 3/8.
RoxxW
0
Understand the treated wood problem better now
....So I am thinking of extending the deck floor joist now (with a non treated Pine deck joist for example) out over the wall ledges and capping the perimeter of the ledges with composite deck boards...say a couple 1x6 on top and a face plate composite to hide the ends of the floor joist should do the trick and look fairly attractive I would think. If the joist spacing is standard 16" apart, the deck composite boards should bear any weight short of an elephant!
RoxxW
0
Why not just take the facia off. Sister the joists with a 24" joist and cut all the ends like you show in post #13. I'd use 2x6". The left side will be perpendicular to the pool so those are easy. The right side will come off at a tangent but you could just cut the ends at an angle to match the pool wall angle. And then just put a narrow facia on to trim it out.
For the decking itself just use decking boards running parallel to the pool wall to make sort of a border affect.
Like this up by the lounge chairs:
This is what I was thinking when i posted my last reply to this thread except to use composite for the perimeter and face. That would eliminate the problem associated with treated lumber so close to the pool. Great picture!
What about the new sistered joists that will be over hanging the pool rail? Shouldn't those be pressure treated? Those will be an 1/2" away from the pool rail.
You should use treated lumber for the joists. Untreated will not last, especially that close to the water. It was the direct metal (if any) contact that is the issue with the PT wood and pool frame.
With the cantilever there will be no PT joist to pool rail contact. I really like the way that cantilever idea looks in that picture you posted. That's the look I'm shooting for. Again my only worry is the strength of the notched portion over the rail.
RoxxW
0
I was mainly concerned about the post from CJadmec above. He said that "The modern ACQ pressure treated wood in very corrosive and will quickly shorten the life of any metal pool components. I am using treated lumber in the deck. I was concerned about his comment so I suggested I might use a pine joist for that part of the deck. My ABG pool is 90% metal.
Thank you for that information. I was unaware of that. All of my rails are medal so i will steer clear of pt around the rails.
Well I have ran into another possible solution and want to know what you guys think... I called Knape and Vogt and got the dementions of the 45 to see if it would fit and from what I can tell it would. If I went this route I was thinking of attaching one where every other joist meets the fascia. Each pair is rated to 1200lbs. Another one I found and may fit much better was from Rockler and I would attached them in the same fashion as the K&V brace. Each pair of the Rocklers is rated for 1000lbs. What do you guys think?
http://https://www.knapeandvogt.com/208-series-super-duty-ultimate-l-bracket?
http://https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-steel-shelf-brackets-black-finish#turnto-reviews-content
http://https://www.knapeandvogt.com/208-series-super-duty-ultimate-l-bracket?
http://https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-steel-shelf-brackets-black-finish#turnto-reviews-content
RoxxW
0
I am not sure what kind of material each is made from. The Rockler looks more solid than the first one. They are rated for a great deal of weight short of a horse. I think they might flex when stepped on and I am not sure what kind of fasteners to use to distribute the loads.
I ordered 12 of the rocklers last night. I figured that this is the easiest way so far to extend the deck over the rail. If I don't see it as a solution or don't think it will work then I will simply return them and move on to the sistering of the joists with the notch or possibly use there rocklers arms in addition to the joists. I will update when I receive them.
I want to throw this out there for what it's worth. The facia is not considered a structural element. It's typically there for beautification. Screwed or nailed into end grain and isn't really capable of holding much weight. Then you are using brackets that may not be rated for structural use to hold up some of your decking. I'm sure there will be plenty of people jumping off these boards into your pool. Personally I'd be concerned about the ability of the system to support the decking as intended. The weakest point will be the facia to joist end grain attachment.
It may be more work but I would really recommend removing the facia, sister in the joists/ add new joists and just setting the deck boards on top of them. You could add a new facia for looks if you want on the end of the new joists.
It may be more work but I would really recommend removing the facia, sister in the joists/ add new joists and just setting the deck boards on top of them. You could add a new facia for looks if you want on the end of the new joists.