Cyclone Winterizing Blower - Looking for a Good Deal!

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PoolGate

PoolGate

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 7, 2017
9,971
Damascus, MD
Pool Size
29000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
If anyone knows about or sees a Cyclone blower for a great price, please post it here. I have decided to winterize my own pool this year. These are rather pricey. The same as having my pool winterized so next closing season I'll start to see savings.

Like this one: Amazon.com

613iGSnwfDL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
I don't recall ever seeing them less than $325 since the supply chain went to crud. $354 is fair for a bird in the hand. 🤷‍♂️

Best wishes for a clearance sale somewhere tho. :)
 
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PoolGate said:
If anyone knows about or sees a Cyclone blower for a great price, please post it here. I have decided to winterize my own pool this year. These are rather pricey. The same as having my pool winterized so next closing season I'll start to see savings.

Like this one: Amazon.com

613iGSnwfDL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
Click to expand...
They work well for blowing out sprinkler systems as well.
 
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We're on our 3rd season with our pool and the first two I've had "complimentary closings" with the PB. I've been thinking about closing myself and my PB just confirmed that. They want $845 to close this year. Found another pool company that closes pools, and they want $400 just to blow out lines and add chemicals, no cover placement.

Gonna get the Cyclone, but will need some way to attach to the pump. Would like to buy a pump lid cover with an adapter, but not seeing anything online, besides making one. Would attaching through the pump drain work as well as the lid?

What fitting would be needed to attach to the drain?

Is there somewhere to buy the lid with adapter drilled in the hole?
 
SecoSteve said:
Would like to buy a pump lid cover with an adapter, but not seeing anything online, besides making one.
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There's too many pump lids out there, so it's a DIY thing.

Consider blowing the whole system from the skimmer. They make blow through gizzmos, or you could make your own threaded pipe right to the skimmer. @pb4uswim has an example.
 
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SecoSteve said:
We're on our 3rd season with our pool and the first two I've had "complimentary closings" with the PB. I've been thinking about closing myself and my PB just confirmed that. They want $845 to close this year. Found another pool company that closes pools, and they want $400 just to blow out lines and add chemicals, no cover placement.

Gonna get the Cyclone, but will need some way to attach to the pump. Would like to buy a pump lid cover with an adapter, but not seeing anything online, besides making one. Would attaching through the pump drain work as well as the lid?

What fitting would be needed to attach to the drain?

Is there somewhere to buy the lid with adapter drilled in the hole?
Click to expand...

It comes with a fitting that apparently fits most hoses. From there I was planning on putting it into my pump suction port (lid removed). That will allow me to blow out each skimmer and the main drain. I am not sure about the pressure side but I do have some unions that I could disconnect to blow the returns and water features out. Perhaps just the pressure side of the pump basket?

Anyone know how I get antifreeze into the main drain?
 
PoolGate said:
Anyone know how I get antifreeze into the main drain?
Click to expand...

You do not need to get antifreeze into the Main Drain since it is below the frost line. Your pool will never freeze down to the MD level.

You do need to get antifreeze into the MD suction line down to the frost line.

Frost_Line_Map.jpg
 
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PoolGate said:
From there I was planning on putting it into my pump suction port (lid removed).
Click to expand...
Pull the pump and blow both directions. Or DIY a skimmer attachment. Found PB4s pic of his.

Screenshot_20230825_153904_Chrome.jpg

Or use a blow through gizzmo and then cap it in place.

PoolGate said:
Anyone know how I get antifreeze into the main drain?
Click to expand...
With the low side open, it'll ooze out over time anyway. Blow it and airlock the high side. Water will immediately glug glug glug back in the horizontal pipe under the pool, buts its 8ft (?) down and no biggie. The angled up part towards the pad will remain empty.
 
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OK I ordered it! I will do my own closing this year. I am still a little unsure what lines I put antifreeze into. I assume since I will blow and shut off all of the pressure lines, that I don't need any in any of those. Well - maybe. I do have floor returns which will be impossible to totally blow/seal so I guess that line will need some? And the skimmers should also be able to be blown out entirely. So that leave the MD. Above I was told to add antifreeze and that I didn't need it. Huh? :oops:
 
Antifreeze offers some extra insurance jn case the blowout did not completely clear the water in pipes above the frostline. Its not absolutely needed. It doesn’t hurt to use it.

Ive never used it and haven’t had trouble.
 
PoolGate said:
OK I ordered it! I will do my own closing this year. I am still a little unsure what lines I put antifreeze into. I assume since I will blow and shut off all of the pressure lines, that I don't need any in any of those. Well - maybe. I do have floor returns which will be impossible to totally blow/seal so I guess that line will need some? And the skimmers should also be able to be blown out entirely. So that leave the MD. Above I was told to add antifreeze and that I didn't need it. Huh? :oops:
Click to expand...
You need to blow out the pain drain to remove the water from the pipes that are above ground at your equipment pad. The antifreeze is just in case some water gets back in and fills up that pipe. But if it’s air locked, it shouldn’t need any. The antifreeze isn’t needed down by the drain as the drain won’t freeze.

The skimmers should be blown out and antifreeze in the skimmer, unless you can cover them in such a way that rainwater doesn’t fill them back up. You can plug them with a gizmo so frozen water doesn’t expand and crack the skimmer housing.

The returns get blown and plugged. Not sure how to get antifreeze in those.

Make sure to drain your heater, filter, pump, etc. there’s a wiki article on all of that as well.
 
Bperry said:
The returns get blown and plugged. Not sure how to get antifreeze in those.
Click to expand...

Members have posted about constructing periscopes out of PVC that are inserted into the returns and vent the returns above the water line. That allows antifreeze to be poured into the return and keeps water out.
 
I am not concerned about any returns accept my floor returns. They are on the bottom of the pool so no way to blow them completely. The other returns (3 wall, 2 water features) will be above the water line when the water is lowered. Skimmers also will be above the water line. So just the main drain and floor returns (3 ports on the pool floor all coming from 1 pipe from the equipment pad). Main drain is also a homerun from the pool to the equipment pad.
 
ajw22 said:
Members have posted about constructing periscopes out of PVC that are inserted into the returns and vent the returns above the water line. That allows antifreeze to be poured into the return and keeps water out.
Click to expand...
I like that idea I may do that instead of the screw in plugs
 
PoolGate said:
I am not concerned about any returns accept my floor returns. They are on the bottom of the pool so no way to blow them completely. The other returns (3 wall, 2 water features) will be above the water line when the water is lowered. Skimmers also will be above the water line. So just the main drain and floor returns (3 ports on the pool floor all coming from 1 pipe from the equipment pad). Main drain is also a homerun from the pool to the equipment pad.
Click to expand...
The cyclone will blow the floor returns too. Do you have a pipe that will let you airlock those?
 
Any open line into the pool (all well below the front line) will ooze out, so there's no point in using antifreeze.

Air lock them at the pad while blowing, and it's good to go.
 
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