Cyclone Blower Pressure

[dustinh]

Hi, is it safe to have the cyclone hooked up and running with no outlet for the air to escape? Scenario: I have the cyclone attached to my pump lid and its blowing, I let the returns blow and cap them one by one. After the last return is capped, with the blower still on the air has nowhere to go and pressure will build up. It is a bit of a walk to the equipment pad outside the fence, so will this be safe for my plumbing until I can walk over there and turn it off if I am closing my pool by myself? I didn't know how important it was to immediately turn off the blower once the returns are plugged.

Thanks!
Dustin

 

[Texas Splash]

To avoid the back-pressure issue, you have a couple options:
1 - Have a helper turn off the Cyclone once you have the last plug ready to be inserted.
2 - Use an extension cord to allow you to position the Cyclone close to that last return so you can unplug if from power yourself.

Also see:

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

I wanted to place a generic post that people can refer to when closing an IG Pool with a sand filter. The information in this thread is based on my experience, how I prefer to close a pool, and extremely valuable information from some of the many talented forum members. Most of the credit...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Serious1]

Could you use a plug in with a remote on/off or would that damage the cyclone? They should make them with a remote for self-closers.

 

[Texas Splash]

Could you use a plug in with a remote on/off or would that damage the cyclone? They should make them with a remote for self-closers.

A smart plug would be a creative idea as well. Lots of them work with today's APPs.

 

[Serious1]

A smart plug would be a creative idea as well. Lots of them work with today's APPs.

I'd probably use the clapper if the cyclone wasn't so loud....

 

[JoyfulNoise]

The cyclone doesn’t build up enough pressure to damage your plumbing. They are high flow, low pressure air blowers. Your PVC pipes would need to be pressurized to hundreds of PSI to burst them.

The only risk of no flow for the cyclone is that the blower will heat up. You should have plenty of time to walk over and shut it off before it overheats. And, in any event, the motor has a thermal protection switch that would limit damage.

As my wife likes to say to me - “You are way overthinking this sweetie …”

 

[JamesW]

Product Description​

The Cyclone Pro is built with a powerful bypass motor specifically designed for winterizing pools and for installing vinyl liners.

The cyclone offers:

• A powerful long life 8.4″ diameter two-stage motor producing 140 cfm on open flow and a sealed pressure of 180 inches of water column.
• A completely redesigned plastic housing made of durable polycarbonate that can take the abuse as a pool service tool.
• Dual sized inlet to accommodate a 4.0 inch flex hose or a 2.0 inch PVC pipe with a protective stainless steel screen for maximum air flow when installing liners.
• Durable 20 amp rocker switch.
• 1.5″ threaded outlet that can accommodate a variety of PVC fittings, shipped with a 1.5″ threaded hose adapter.

Specifications

• Model 14128100P
• Size L x W x H: 13″ x 9.25″ x 13.5″
• Weight: 14 lbs
• 14 Amps 120 Volts

Air Supply – Cyclone Pro

www.airsupplyflorida.com

https://www.airsupplyflorida.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Cyclone-Pro-Flyer-Air-Supply-of-the-Future-Inc.pdf

The Cyclone will generate about 160 to 180 inches of water pressure, which is about 5.8 to 6.5 psi.

180 inches is 15 feet. So, that's the maximum water depth that it can blow out.

 

[JamesW]

I'd probably use the clapper if the cyclone wasn't so loud....

I used to have the clapper, but a dose of penicillin cleared it up.