We recently installed a SWG after many years of using chlorine tablets (which I now see are rather disparagingly referred to as "pucks" here).
The chlorine and CYA are high. The pool school chart has shown me what a problem this actually is. I just ordered the TF 100 test kit.
Leslie's test results: FC and TC 10ppm, pH 7.6, TA 100, CYA 100 (I suspect it may be much higher), Salt 3700, CH 200
The Leslie's analysis report recommendation was to lower FC by adding Leslie's chlorine neutralizer and lower CYA with Leslie's Bio-Active CAR. The verbal recommendation was to turn off the SWG and it would drop naturally. And not to worry too much about CYA - it would eventually come down with backflushing dilution over time.
We turned off the SWG three weeks ago and the FC / TC is still 10 (aquacheck test strips, which I now know are a poor way to test).
OK, that was the background: my first question is what to tackle first? I think I should first address the CYA and keep an eye on FC and switch on the SWG when it drops, in the meantime not use the pool until we get chemistry sorted out and determine whether CC is a problem.
We live in CA, so the drought makes me tres reluctant to dump water to dilute. I can't find anything in past TFP posts about using Bio-Active, and the Leslie's chap said it was a pain to use and he didn't particularly recommend it. There are a few positive reviews from users on the Leslie's web page which may indicate that the negative reviewers didn't use it exactly as directed but it's hard to tell.
When the test kit arrives I will endeavor to get a better handle on the true CYA level (right now I think Leslie's result really means 100+ as it maxed out their test and they don't dilute the sample to verify the result). I would like to try the Bio Active to see if I can avoid draining the pool but would appreciate feedback about that idea. Thanks!
The chlorine and CYA are high. The pool school chart has shown me what a problem this actually is. I just ordered the TF 100 test kit.
Leslie's test results: FC and TC 10ppm, pH 7.6, TA 100, CYA 100 (I suspect it may be much higher), Salt 3700, CH 200
The Leslie's analysis report recommendation was to lower FC by adding Leslie's chlorine neutralizer and lower CYA with Leslie's Bio-Active CAR. The verbal recommendation was to turn off the SWG and it would drop naturally. And not to worry too much about CYA - it would eventually come down with backflushing dilution over time.
We turned off the SWG three weeks ago and the FC / TC is still 10 (aquacheck test strips, which I now know are a poor way to test).
OK, that was the background: my first question is what to tackle first? I think I should first address the CYA and keep an eye on FC and switch on the SWG when it drops, in the meantime not use the pool until we get chemistry sorted out and determine whether CC is a problem.
We live in CA, so the drought makes me tres reluctant to dump water to dilute. I can't find anything in past TFP posts about using Bio-Active, and the Leslie's chap said it was a pain to use and he didn't particularly recommend it. There are a few positive reviews from users on the Leslie's web page which may indicate that the negative reviewers didn't use it exactly as directed but it's hard to tell.
When the test kit arrives I will endeavor to get a better handle on the true CYA level (right now I think Leslie's result really means 100+ as it maxed out their test and they don't dilute the sample to verify the result). I would like to try the Bio Active to see if I can avoid draining the pool but would appreciate feedback about that idea. Thanks!