CYA before SLAM?

drharris

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2016
275
Walhalla, SC
That should be plenty DE then - adding more is just going to reduce the amount that can be filtered.

Sorry to say that at this point it's just time. The good news is that cloudiness/turbidity is a logarithmic thing (like the gradations on your CYA tube), so it spends a while seemingly doing nothing and then should be much quicker toward the end. Once you can see the shallow end, the rest goes much quicker. At this point, continue maintaining FC at SLAM and let the filter do it's magic. Have you tried changing where the suction-side valves pull from? Like pull more from the main drain than the skimmer? It probably won't change much, but combination of allowing things to settle more and pulling from main drain more might help it clear faster. But really it's just a time thing.
 

pypeke

Silver Supporter
Jul 31, 2015
243
Southeastern Oklahoma
We had the main and skimmer open all the way. Two days ago, I closed 2/3 of the main drain off.

I can change it to the main drain all the way open and the skimmer 2/3 closed.

Just the last two days, I am finally seeing improvement. I can see the wrinkles in the sides of the liner about 2 1/2 ft down. A professional put our liner in! I think we could have done just as well.

So once all three aspects of the slam are met, what does the FC have to go down to before it is okay to swim in? I will need to check the pH again too.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
22,404
Laughlin, NV
It is safe to swim
If your FC is at or below shock level
Your pH is between 7.2 and 7.8
And you can see the bottom of the deep end.
 

drharris

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2016
275
Walhalla, SC
We had the main and skimmer open all the way. Two days ago, I closed 2/3 of the main drain off.

I can change it to the main drain all the way open and the skimmer 2/3 closed.
I probably would. I would think most of the cloudy water is nearer the bottom. I mean, it all gets mixed together, but it's all about circulation, and maybe giving your main drain more responsibility would help keep it better circulated during the filtering process. I mean, we're talking small percentage improvement, but it could help.

So once all three aspects of the slam are met, what does the FC have to go down to before it is okay to swim in? I will need to check the pH again too.
It's safe as long as you're below shock level (and good pH, and clear). But I'd let it drop below 10 in order to accurately test pH, especially if anybody there has sensitive eyes/skin.
 

spinPHD

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2017
501
Phoenix
Glad you're starting to see improvement. Keep up the good work, once you're through this you're going to see why this method is the best way to maintain pool.
 

pypeke

Silver Supporter
Jul 31, 2015
243
Southeastern Oklahoma
I can see the bottom of the pool in the shallow ends. This has taken me weeks longer to get this pool cleaned up this year.

Never, never, never again will I wait until May to clean up the pool. Lesson learned...I hope.

Getting closer...
 

pypeke

Silver Supporter
Jul 31, 2015
243
Southeastern Oklahoma


Still doesn't sparkle though. I can see the main drain a little. I can see the bottom of the vinyl liner pattern from 3-4 ft deep.

OCLT has passed every night since the 16th...so 6 nights in a row. Fc is good. It is just taking forever to get clear. Good thing it is a small pool and only 15K gallons.

Miserably hot here...I am so ready to swim.
 

funandsun

Bronze Supporter
Jun 11, 2017
764
Bloomington Indiana
Awesome pypeke!!

I feel your pain with waiting so late to get started.. "never again" has been my favorite 2 word phrase since June 2nd. Kids finally got to swim yesterday and today. Thought those last couple of feet would never clear!

Great work!
 

pypeke

Silver Supporter
Jul 31, 2015
243
Southeastern Oklahoma
FC 10
CC 0
CH 250
TA 70 will raise this today
pH 7.2

1. Do I need to keep doing the FC and CC test the rest of the summer? Or do I use the Chlorine/pH testing container from now on? I keep up with pH so no one gets sick.

2. How often do I test TA?

3. Vinyl liner so do I need to test CH again this summer?

4. How often do I need to test CYA?

I need to see what chemicals to reorder to last the rest of summer. I am almost out of the drops for testing FC, but I don't want to have them get out of date.

Thanks a million to everyone!
 

funandsun

Bronze Supporter
Jun 11, 2017
764
Bloomington Indiana
pypeke I am a noob when it comes to this level of awareness about my pools chemistry. Have owned the pool for 13 years but this is the first year with a proper test kit.

I plan to check my chlorine every day until I get a "feel" for my pools behavior in my climate. I keep an excel spreadsheet to log all my results, I test pH, TA and CH every 3-4 days as I do not expect these to change much and CYA I will check every 2 weeks and then monthly, since I only use liquid bleach/chlorine, I do not expect my CYA to change much, I certainly do not expect it to increase.

As far as my testing reagents, I assume I will use a bit more this first year and potentially into next as I keep a tight leash on things. Again, having used strip tests for 12 years this is a whole new level for me, but I look through pics of the "pros" on TFP and my competitive nature will not accept anything but crystal clear clean water from now on.

The way I see it, by NOT purchasing Algaecide, Floc and Clarifier ever again, my reagents in my mind are free. I am not looking to maintain my pool for free, only looking to reallocate my dollars to what matters most. If in the end I save a few bucks ok, but I was fine with my pool maintenance budget prior to this year, I am just getting much better results and peace of mind.

Hope this view helps,