I have unfortunately wasted a bunch of cash the past few weeks, trying to get my green pool open. Fixing to put the cover over it or throw dirt in and fill her up. As I cant keep throwing money into something that I cant stay on top of due to the fact I have to work as well as my wife has to work. So what I am asking is I throw some bleach in get it up to 25 ppm and then 1 hr later it has lost half the strength of what I originally threw in. So to get this done I would have to stay out by the pool all day or is there another way as I can does the thing the whole day.......... Please calgon take me away
Curious, just how quick does Chlorine/bleach get used?
- Thread starter Bowlin
- Start date
If you have no CYA and the sun is shining, losing half the FC in an hour is quite normal, even with clear water. If you have a green or cloudy pool, or ammonia, you could lose it all before it's had enough time to mix for you can retest it!Bowlin said:
It can take days or weeks. What's the pool look like? Do you have a test kit, and what kind? Have you been reading pool school?
tcat
Silver Supporter
- May 30, 2012
- 1,786
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Don't give up, once it's clear it shouldn't take much work or $$. Mine uses 1.5 gallons of Clorox per week, and a gallon of ma. Total cost about $15/mo. Sure beats paying the pool guy!
I wonder if using pucks and Clorox would help. That would add some cya and continually feed chlorine. Good luck!
I wonder if using pucks and Clorox would help. That would add some cya and continually feed chlorine. Good luck!
I will post some results tomm, however I am considering floc-ing the pool whats the thoughts there???
Yeah I have read pool school, so to get the pool going can run up into the hundreds, thinking closing for the year!!!
Pool store the other day said cya was 60 so I lowered the water some as I fill may be a touch higher. Mountain Dew never looked so bad!!!
Yeah I have read pool school, so to get the pool going can run up into the hundreds, thinking closing for the year!!!
Pool store the other day said cya was 60 so I lowered the water some as I fill may be a touch higher. Mountain Dew never looked so bad!!!
It's hard to advise you without test results. It's even harder if you post pool store test results because they are just like test strips... unreliable. It is highly encouraged that you take your pool into your own hands, stay away from the Pool Stores and order a reliable test kit of your own and start caring for your own pool by reading Pool School.
tcat, No one knows what the CYA is so saying to use pucks is really not the solution here. His pH could be very low as it stands and the pucks could aggrivate the situation in that regard. My point is, without posting his results, we can recommend nothing at this time, all we can do is speculate and heck... we should just send him back to the pool store for that. Ya know? :|
tcat, No one knows what the CYA is so saying to use pucks is really not the solution here. His pH could be very low as it stands and the pucks could aggrivate the situation in that regard. My point is, without posting his results, we can recommend nothing at this time, all we can do is speculate and heck... we should just send him back to the pool store for that. Ya know? :|
Bowlin said:
We usually don't recommend floccing but filtering. Why don't you put that money to better use and order a TF-100? You would be much happier with the results over the floccing!
tcat
Silver Supporter
- May 30, 2012
- 1,786
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
OK, I thought cya of zero was mentioned... yeah if it's 60 (or 200) it'll take a lot more chemicals. Might be faster to refill if there's a low water table and reasonably priced water. But do nothing until you get a test kit and know what your dealing with.
Well my fc is or was 10 my cc was 3, so yes I know shock shock shock or chlorinate chlorinate chlorinate
and as I said 60 for cya, and the main reason I go to that particular pool store is because they use the taylor test lab, and I watch the cya being performed and they seem legit, and probably can do it much better than I
my ph was 8.0
my alk was 90
not immune to the pool school love it and love this site, if anything my major drawback is not being able to be there with the pool for an extendded period as to where I can keep up with the game.
Is it possible I still have way too many leaves down there and I need to continue dredging the bottom till I come up with nothing?
Considered draining but as much as it has rained lately dont wanna go that route but it is suppose to be in the 90's be middle of week so I am way behind!!!!!!
Throwing hands up in dispair :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:
and as I said 60 for cya, and the main reason I go to that particular pool store is because they use the taylor test lab, and I watch the cya being performed and they seem legit, and probably can do it much better than I
my ph was 8.0
my alk was 90
not immune to the pool school love it and love this site, if anything my major drawback is not being able to be there with the pool for an extendded period as to where I can keep up with the game.
Is it possible I still have way too many leaves down there and I need to continue dredging the bottom till I come up with nothing?
Considered draining but as much as it has rained lately dont wanna go that route but it is suppose to be in the 90's be middle of week so I am way behind!!!!!!
Throwing hands up in dispair :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:
If you still have debris on the bottom of the pool, you need to get that out of there by raking the bottom with a leaf rake or vacc'ing it out. Whatever it takes, it needs to come out because it is eating your chlorine.
If your CYA level is 60, your shock level is 24ppm.
You would be so much more ahead of the game if you just purchased your own test kit so you can cut the middle man out and test it yourself. The pool store testing is not as accurate as you think it is. AND, the test kit will give you a starting point to go off of to start the shocking process. You will need to test the water before the sun hits the pool at the end of the shocking process and most pool stores don't open until atleast 9am. That's not going to work for you.
If your CYA level is 60, your shock level is 24ppm.
You would be so much more ahead of the game if you just purchased your own test kit so you can cut the middle man out and test it yourself. The pool store testing is not as accurate as you think it is. AND, the test kit will give you a starting point to go off of to start the shocking process. You will need to test the water before the sun hits the pool at the end of the shocking process and most pool stores don't open until atleast 9am. That's not going to work for you.
Still in my drama phase and I know I have read here plenty of times about foam on top of pool water. But it seems every time that I add liquid bleach I get foam, not so much if I use calhypo, is that a sign of leaves or more stuff in bottom of pool. As I will be dredging today for awhile maybe some more tomm and the next day and then I plan on getting back in the chlorine buying business.
You didn't buy some weird "splashless" or "outdoor" bleach did you? Because that stuff has additives that can cause foaming.Bowlin said:
The foam is the result of the bleach oxidizing something, so everything is happening as it should.
The TFP philosophy isn't just about clearing your pool or buying chemicals from the grocery store. It's about understanding and taking complete control over your pool. I know you're sick of hearing it, but we're saying it because it's important: you need to buy your own test kit.
The TFP philosophy isn't just about clearing your pool or buying chemicals from the grocery store. It's about understanding and taking complete control over your pool. I know you're sick of hearing it, but we're saying it because it's important: you need to buy your own test kit.
Pogo
0
- May 8, 2009
- 48
That's exactly what we use and we don't have any problems.Bowlin said:
Concerning your original post, let me offer my personal experience. Let me say first of all, I'm an amateur, am not deep into all the technical details and in depth knowledge most of these folks can offer. But, I have had some success keeping my pool clean and I can tell you what I am doing and what's working, and you can take it for whatever it may be worth to you.
For the record, I have, and use, our own test kit to keep track of things. We are also fortunate in having a family owned pool store that is more concerned with customers having a clean pool than selling chemicals. Oh, they make recommendations but, they don't try to tell me Clorox won't work. They are really very helpful. I use them to test MY test results. If there is any major discrepancies, and there haven't been many, I bring the debate here for clarification.
For one thing, I live in East Texas so our (mine & Bowlin's) climates are likely comparable at least to some extent. Also, like you I am using Wally's bleach though, and I don't really believe it makes a difference, my wife insists on "Clorox" brand.
For another thing, it is gonna cost you to clean it up. No way around that but maybe not as much as you're spending now. For several years running, I opened each spring with 23,000 gallons of stinking green, primordial ooze.
No more but, more on that later.You do have to have the cya up too.
I tried using the chemical calculator referenced elsewhere on this site and was given to use something like 5 bottles of the, I forget the size exactly- the bottles that were a little less than a gallon and a half- to super shock it and it didn't really accomplish anything fast. I got po'd one day, said the heck with it and dumped like 10 bottles in there and let it rip. It worked. Now, maybe I misused the calculator. I wouldn't be at all surprised cause I did have trouble with it.
But, overnight my opaque green turned translucent grey. I did the same again and that pretty well cleared it up. Oh, there still had to be a lot of scrubbing and back washing but, that took a strain off the chemicals.Now, here's a curious thing. Every year near the end of the season (September about) I seem to get a determined algae bloom. "Normal" shocking and algacide just wouldn't stop it but, being end of season I usually gave in to it until spring. Well, 3 years ago I decided "No."
I dumped my "super shock" dosage of "Clorox" and it knocked it right out. Then, strangely, It stayed clear. All winter I pretty much only, added some bleach if it started getting cloudy but, only about 3 bottles at a time, 5 if it seemed determined. That and, not having a cover and being of two minds about the wisdom of using one, simply cleaning out any substantial leaf or such like build up as it occurred. Pretty much, unless a storm blew in some trash I only did things to it about once a month. Also, I would normal shock the pool if we got some heavy rainfall (Not as frequent an occurrence as I we could use.). Come spring, I hardly had to do anything special to open it. Mainly just some good brushing and vacuuming and properly balancing the water and that's it.
The end of the next season, came the usual algae bloom and like the previous year I knocked it out. That winter and spring, same thing, no headaches. This past year I went into it with that in mind and again, it stayed pretty clear all winter.
My fill water, btw, is ph high well water in case in matters, though, last year I had little problem keeping the ph in line, usually a struggle. I used to use nearly as much acid as bleach! Maybe the drought, bad here in East Texas year before last had some effect on it. I don't know.
I hope this helps somebody and I am anxious to hear what wiser, more educated heads have to say about it.
(And let me hasten to assure, I am in no way being smart alecky or sarcastic in that "smarter/wiser" comment. I am literally in awe of, and have great respect for, the accumulated knowledge here.)
Sorry all, that this is so long but, I wanted to put what I did and what happened in detail because I really don't know what, or even IF I am doing anything "right." I only know what I am doing is working. Maybe it's a fluke?
Anyway, there you have it. I only know it's working and has for 3 years straight now.
If I am reading it correctly, based on your comment, you have a "Mountain Dew" looking pool. If you are that clarity and green, keep adding the chlorine and focus on adding it in the evening when the sun is off the pool... and keep filtering. If the CL level is below shock in the morning, add CL to bring it back up based on the calculator and accept the daytime loses to kill the green.
The water may go cloudy blue/white first but that is a good sign that you are getting closer to all dead algae. It may also be a good time to brush to ensure you don't have fuzzy walls/floor.
The water may go cloudy blue/white first but that is a good sign that you are getting closer to all dead algae. It may also be a good time to brush to ensure you don't have fuzzy walls/floor.
Everyone thanks for the help and helpful thoughts during my rant. I am totally on board with the TFP way of thinking. I do have a test kit. And my numbers are horrible so they are not gonna be posted. I know my problem is leaves so I am gonna start back there when and if I start back. Then maybe I can keep a chlorine reading of something. I tested with a slide cell for the cya where you put water to a the the reagent to b shke for 30 seconds let sit for 2 minutes and then check, dang dot never left so that means 0 cya right??? Or higher than 100???
I don't have one of those testers, so I can't comment on the CYA level. But after you mixed equal parts of pool water and R-0013, it didn't get cloudy? That would indicate low CYA, which tallies well with your alarmingly fast FC drop.Bowlin said:
So you likely have two culprits using up your expensive bleach: leaves, and no stabilizer.
If you add stabilizer, do not pour it in the skimmer. You'll likely need to backwash before it's fully dissolved and you will wash it away. Tie it up in a sock and hang it in front of a return.
There's no reason your pool can't be clean, balanced, and sparkling - and you be an old hand at testing and dosing - in time for a Fourth of July party.
The voice of experience here... get rid of the leaves ASAP. If you keep adding beach, you are dissolving the blackened leaves one bleach bottle at a time. An hour or two vacuum to waste will make life much easier on your pool and your wallet.
As for you bad numbers, I am sure we (I) have seen worse.
As for you bad numbers, I am sure we (I) have seen worse.
OK curious to get the same effect as 25ppm shock level according to my cya test which puts me low maybe even 10 - 20 cya, to get the same effect I need to stay according to cya chart above 10 correct???
CYA Minimum FC Target FC Shock FC
20 2 3 10
And staying above that level is that just wasting chlorine???
CYA Minimum FC Target FC Shock FC
20 2 3 10
And staying above that level is that just wasting chlorine???