Hi everyone - long time lurker, first time poster...I have hairline cracks on both the front and back unions which are getting worse. I don't have much room in the front to cut it out and add a coupling/pipe, are there any concerns moving the chlorinator toward the back? I want to avoid adding a fitting extender if possible. Thank you!
Cracked Union - Pentair Chlorinator
- Thread starter To0w1r3d
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
T,
Same thing happened to me... I temporarily epoxied the cracks and ordered new unions. That was about 6 or 7 years ago, and I still have the new unions in a box somewhere... If they every break again, I'll replace them. Assuming I can find them...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Same thing happened to me... I temporarily epoxied the cracks and ordered new unions. That was about 6 or 7 years ago, and I still have the new unions in a box somewhere... If they every break again, I'll replace them. Assuming I can find them...
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,042
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The SWG should be positioned as far to the right as possible. You have plenty of pipe to add a new union on the right. Probably enough to do it again someday. Cut the pipe to the right of the SWG as close to the old SWG union as possible, to leave as much of that section of pipe as possible. Glue on the new union. Don't forget to slip the threaded part of the union on the pipe first, it can't go on afterward!
You'll need to extend the pipe on the left a bit. The longer that run of pipe is the better. The flow sensor, located just inside the SWG on the left, is sensitive to turbulence, so a long, straight run of pipe entering the SWG is best for its performance. Install a PVC coupler as close to the elbow on the left as you can get, then use a new piece of pipe between that coupler and the new union (to the left of the SWG).
Then paint the new pipe to match existing. Use latex paint. Painting above-ground PVC helps shield it from damaging UV rays.
You'll need to extend the pipe on the left a bit. The longer that run of pipe is the better. The flow sensor, located just inside the SWG on the left, is sensitive to turbulence, so a long, straight run of pipe entering the SWG is best for its performance. Install a PVC coupler as close to the elbow on the left as you can get, then use a new piece of pipe between that coupler and the new union (to the left of the SWG).
Then paint the new pipe to match existing. Use latex paint. Painting above-ground PVC helps shield it from damaging UV rays.
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Yeah, I've been lazy but I guess it's time ..T,
Same thing happened to me... I temporarily epoxied the cracks and ordered new unions. That was about 6 or 7 years ago, and I still have the new unions in a box somewhere... If they every break again, I'll replace them. Assuming I can find them...
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,042
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
With respect, that's not the case with a Pentair SWG. It needs to be as far to the right as possible, with as much straight pipe to the left of it as possible, as described in post #4. The less turbulence on the flow switch, the lower you'll be able to set your pump's RPMs, which means the cheaper the operating cost will be...
- Jul 21, 2013
- 55,447
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You are splitting hairs.
The cell will work FINE anywhere along the pipe.
Lets differentiate between will it work and optimizing for the .001 %.
+1. With 2 inch plumbing the 'Florida filter' is going to be the weak link restricting flow, not the turbulence coming out of the 90.
Mine was 90'd to my heater with no pipe before it and it activated at such low RPMs that skimming didn't work. So I had to add 200-300 RPMs to skim at 1200.
Speaking of.......... what kind of pump are you using. If it's single speed, none of this even matters until you have to replace it and only VS is available. And the SWG placement left/right still won't matter.
Mine was 90'd to my heater with no pipe before it and it activated at such low RPMs that skimming didn't work. So I had to add 200-300 RPMs to skim at 1200.
Speaking of.......... what kind of pump are you using. If it's single speed, none of this even matters until you have to replace it and only VS is available. And the SWG placement left/right still won't matter.
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One of the unions on mine split in half. I epoxied it and it lasted about a month. Then I found split nut PVC unions to replace the damaged union. It works great because you don't know to mess with the piping.
https://www.amazon.com/Tub-Pump-Union-Split-Nut/dp/B07D9RTHK6
https://www.amazon.com/Tub-Pump-Union-Split-Nut/dp/B07D9RTHK6
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,042
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sorry about the squabbling, @To0w1r3d. I didn't mean to confuse the issue. Your SWG was installed in the correct place originally, and for good reason. My advice is to reinstall it in the same place, as that satisfies Pentair's installation instructions.
Right out of the Pentair IntelliChlor owner manual:
Right out of the Pentair IntelliChlor owner manual: