Cracked Manifold

ericstac1

Member
Feb 24, 2021
5
Fort Bend Co, TX
Moved from HERE.

I'm down in Texas and the same issue.. I pulled my manifold out and its got a nice long crack in it. I placed a backorder for the part but they are saying it could be months and my piping doesn't have a bypass to bypass the pump.. I'm thinking about building a pipe that mimics the in/out of the manifold so I can run my filtration and use my pool when it warms up..
 
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I need to build a pipe to flow in place of this Jandy heater manifold. It seems like it should be easy enough right? A male on top, a little pipe to a 90 and a male on the side.

My issue is not sure of the parts. Are these threads standard in the industry? It has 2" PVC and a Jandy Elbow that screws on to these threads.

Any input would be much appreciated. This part is on a nationwide backorder so I need to bypass the heater to keep my pool operating.


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Welcome to TFP! :wave: Post a pic of your pad set-up and maybe we can give you some ideas. Also, don't forget to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment details. Thanks for posting.

thanks!! Here is my pad setup the heater is covered with plastic because we are expecting rain. I was thinking if I build a 90 to route from the top pipe to the bottom pipe I would need to mess with anything else. Let me know what you think.

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I suspect if you can't find adapters to mate to those black ones, you could easily cut the PVC line just behind the black fitting and use regular Sch 40 PVC elbows and pipe to make a bypass (top to bottom) to get you going. Then you could always work on reconnecting the heater at a later date.
 
Jandy is notorious for using proprietary parts and I would not be surprised if the threads for their heater union is not standard.

It could be easier cutting in a heater bypass valve in the heater in and out pipes before the unions.

 

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I suspect if you can't find adapters to mate to those black ones, you could easily cut the PVC line just behind the black fitting and use regular Sch 40 PVC elbows and pipe to make a bypass (top to bottom) to get you going. Then you could always work on reconnecting the heater at a later date.

Sounds like this is my best bet. The internet doesn't turn up any males to fit those Zodiac unions and normal PVC ones don't connect right. I'll just cut and rebuild with regular stuff, the heater isn't even connected to the propane anyway so its not like we used it.
 
If possible I'd leave room behind the black fittings if you can. Those black fittings may become even longer delivery than your manifold with all the damage last week.

Good luck!
 
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The heaters in the below videos are similar in design so that you can get an idea about what it takes to get to the heat exchanger.

It’s not easy to check or test.

Jump to 17:00 in the first video.





jxiheater.png


 

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