Cracked Manifold in Heater

[plays10s]

Hi - We just got our SWG gunite pool finished about 7 weeks ago. There has been a constant leak under the heater. Finally, they came out and looked at it and said it was a cracked manifold and have ordered the part. I went on this forum and looked at threads of others and no one mentions a leak. Would there be a steady leak (constant wet concrete) if the heater had a leak (we have not used it, of course)? I'm concerned that they are ordering a part and it could be something else. We are fixing to have concrete poured for our pool house that butts up against this pool pump pad, and right now the ground is wet there.

Any help would be appreciated! We have pool school tomorrow, so I will get all my "signature" stats and post later. Thanks!
LaDonna

 

[ajw22]

Water flows through a pool heater even when it is off and not being used unless you have a heater bypass installed. If your builder says the manifold is cracked then it probably is.

You may want to ask your builder to install a heater bypass so the next time you have a heater problem you can stop water from flowing through it and leaking.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[1poolman1]

Hi - We just got our SWG gunite pool finished about 7 weeks ago. There has been a constant leak under the heater. Finally, they came out and looked at it and said it was a cracked manifold and have ordered the part. I went on this forum and looked at threads of others and no one mentions a leak. Would there be a steady leak (constant wet concrete) if the heater had a leak (we have not used it, of course)? I'm concerned that they are ordering a part and it could be something else. We are fixing to have concrete poured for our pool house that butts up against this pool pump pad, and right now the ground is wet there.

Any help would be appreciated! We have pool school tomorrow, so I will get all my "signature" stats and post later. Thanks!
LaDonna

If it is something else, the company will find it when they open the heater to replace the manifold. Its not a particularly "fun" job, depending on the brand especially, so most likely they are right.

 

[plays10s]

If it is something else, the company will find it when they open the heater to replace the manifold. Its not a particularly "fun" job, depending on the brand especially, so most likely they are right.

Thank you! The pool company came and changed out the manifold, and it is working now. I do have a question about calibration of heater temperature to computer pad, but I will do a new post. Thank you so much!

 

[1poolman1]

Thank you! The pool company came and changed out the manifold, and it is working now. I do have a question about calibration of heater temperature to computer pad, but I will do a new post. Thank you so much!

As they measure water temp at different spots in the system, it is not always possible to get automation and a heater display to sync perfectly. Even measuring the water at the pool can result it differences as you would be measuring right a the top of the water, and that is not necessarily the same temp as water that has been mixed from the bottom if you have an active main drain or are measuring the top of a spa with the water pulling off the bottom and pushed through the pump and filter. Basically, you find a setting that works for you and work with it.

There's a saying in the pool industry (as there is in all trades), "You can be accurate, but never precise, and accurate is good enough."

To put it another way, all chemical manufacturers, in their dosing instructions, actually allow for a +/- 10%, yes a 20%, range, for their products to be effective. Your "10,000" gallon pool could be 9,000 or 11,000 and the product would work as well. Virtually everything pool related references 10,000 gallons as where to start.