California has a lot of different temperature zones. However, all Californians are affected by the drought. In my area (and probably others), we are required to have a pool cover (and our swim season (unheated) doesn't begin until June). We are under water restrictions and I understand refilling the pool is one of them. In some areas, new pool permits are banned.
We do what we can to conserve water related to the pool.
When you think of the chemistry, it's no surprise that our alkalinity tends to be high. Having the cover on almost all the time, is going to keep the pool from breathing (exchanging CO2 for O2). (Maybe instructions for reducing alkalinity should indicate to leave the pool uncovered normally until the level is where you want.)
I've been preparing the pool for swimming, and the last thing I'm fixing is the alkalinity: Add acid & aerate (and repeat). So my problem was how to aerate with minimal evaporation.
My immediate but hopefully temporary solution was to run a hose from a spigot (the only spigot) between the pump & filter to a wand sprayer that sprays the water onto the pool surface under the cover. (Wish it were downstream of the filter, but this was all I had.) It is slow to raise the pH, and I'm still running with a negative LSI until I get the alkalinity where I want, and then let the pH get to 7.7 or 7.8.
I've thought about buying a $50 (quiet) air pump and investing in about $20 of air stones designed for ponds. I figure bubbling air through the water would maximize gas exchange but minimize evaporation. The bubbles would be under the cover and the air would find its way out. I'm worried that the chlorine levels might destroy the stones too quickly. Anyone have any experience using them in a pool (not pond)? Any alternative suggestions? (no directional outlets, no threaded water outlets)
Also, with the cover on the pool most of the day during swim season, I'm running my CYA on the low side. Currently 37, I'll probably keep it about there (but I do know it will slowly drop).
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While I'm posting:
Accuracy of pool size estimate:
I hear or see people describe their pool size in gallons, based on some rough estimate of average depth. I think that's a hard estimate to make. Realtors will likely overestimate the size of a pool. I wonder how many people have then compared the amount their FC goes up when they put in a measured amount, relative to what would happen in a pool of their declared size. In a 15K gallon pool, 1 gallon of 10% bleach will raise FC by 6.7. In a 25K gallon pool, it only raises it by 4.0. Have you confirmed the size of your pool?
My pool has a surface area of 500 sq feet (much easier to measure than volume). If the level of the water changes by 3.5 inches, that's 1000 gallons. Conversely, to counteract 3.5" of evaporation, I need to use 1000 gallons. Considering the water restrictions, I should probably do more than an inch at a time (I have to keep it from sucking air!).
We do what we can to conserve water related to the pool.
- We've had our cover on all winter to avoid evaporation (we don't get much rain). We will have it on the pool in the summer except when swimming.
- We don't use Cal-hypo or dichlor or tri-chlor as those build up chemicals you have to drain the pool to get rid of.
- We don't use fountains or similar as they would increase evaporation (and, we're not plumbed for it, the pool is 60 years old).
When you think of the chemistry, it's no surprise that our alkalinity tends to be high. Having the cover on almost all the time, is going to keep the pool from breathing (exchanging CO2 for O2). (Maybe instructions for reducing alkalinity should indicate to leave the pool uncovered normally until the level is where you want.)
I've been preparing the pool for swimming, and the last thing I'm fixing is the alkalinity: Add acid & aerate (and repeat). So my problem was how to aerate with minimal evaporation.
My immediate but hopefully temporary solution was to run a hose from a spigot (the only spigot) between the pump & filter to a wand sprayer that sprays the water onto the pool surface under the cover. (Wish it were downstream of the filter, but this was all I had.) It is slow to raise the pH, and I'm still running with a negative LSI until I get the alkalinity where I want, and then let the pH get to 7.7 or 7.8.
I've thought about buying a $50 (quiet) air pump and investing in about $20 of air stones designed for ponds. I figure bubbling air through the water would maximize gas exchange but minimize evaporation. The bubbles would be under the cover and the air would find its way out. I'm worried that the chlorine levels might destroy the stones too quickly. Anyone have any experience using them in a pool (not pond)? Any alternative suggestions? (no directional outlets, no threaded water outlets)
Also, with the cover on the pool most of the day during swim season, I'm running my CYA on the low side. Currently 37, I'll probably keep it about there (but I do know it will slowly drop).
--------
While I'm posting:
Accuracy of pool size estimate:
I hear or see people describe their pool size in gallons, based on some rough estimate of average depth. I think that's a hard estimate to make. Realtors will likely overestimate the size of a pool. I wonder how many people have then compared the amount their FC goes up when they put in a measured amount, relative to what would happen in a pool of their declared size. In a 15K gallon pool, 1 gallon of 10% bleach will raise FC by 6.7. In a 25K gallon pool, it only raises it by 4.0. Have you confirmed the size of your pool?
My pool has a surface area of 500 sq feet (much easier to measure than volume). If the level of the water changes by 3.5 inches, that's 1000 gallons. Conversely, to counteract 3.5" of evaporation, I need to use 1000 gallons. Considering the water restrictions, I should probably do more than an inch at a time (I have to keep it from sucking air!).
