Could use some help for fixing a broken PVC (PICS)

Thurston

0
Bronze Supporter
May 19, 2017
173
RI
Hi All! :D

I'm getting ready to open the pool, mostly to clean up a major algae issue that has developed. While I was adjusting valves on my plumbing, one of the old PVC components cracked and needs to be fixed before I put water back in the system.

The TEE coming off the 3-way valve now has a crack that protrudes into the body. The TEE was for an auxiliary pump that I no longer need and can be replaced with a straight pipe.

20180329_155705_resized.jpg

My concern is how to remove the TEE from the 3-way valve and the downstream union. OR do I have to replace all of this and install new 3-Way and Union? I'm thinking I do since the TEE looks like it's cemented to the 3-way. Really not sure how the connection to the union is made.

I know how to work with PVC and cement. Any advice is appreciated!
 
t,

Jandy valves come as two sizes.. Like 1.5" and 2" or 2" and 2.5" for the same valve.. In your pic you are using the smaller "inside" pipe size. You can still connect to the existing Jandy valve by putting a pipe or coupler on the "outside" of the valve.

I think that you will have to replace the union at the other end, but there seems to be plenty of room there.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

You would just cut the bad Tee off flush with the Jandy valve..
 
t,

Jandy valves come as two sizes.. Like 1.5" and 2" or 2" and 2.5" for the same valve.. In your pic you are using the smaller "inside" pipe size. You can still connect to the existing Jandy valve by putting a pipe or coupler on the "outside" of the valve.

I think that you will have to replace the union at the other end, but there seems to be plenty of room there.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

You would just cut the bad Tee off flush with the Jandy valve..

That's awesome! The PVC is 1.5", so I could cut flush (or maybe leave a little of the TEE so I don't cut too close) and refit with a 2"?

For the union, do you think I can find a similar union for a 2" PVC and keep the mating side of the union? Or do I replace both pieces of the union with a 2" Union and step down from 2" to 1.5" on the downstream side?

- - - Updated - - -

From the picture the tee looks pretty bound up, make sure things are straight A's you can get them

I should have mentioned, in the picture, the union is disconnected so the TEE is out of line with the downstream section. I think that's what you're talking about?
 
t,

Yes 2" pipe should work fine... I would replace both side of the union just so that I would not have to worry about finding a duplicate union.. It is not like you will be able to just buy one side.. :p

Jim R.
 
CPVC glue works best but regular pvc glue works well enough.

Thanks James... I've used regular PVC glue plenty of times on my own personal projects and have never had a failure or even thought about it... Then when Thurston asked, I was unsure what to say because I did not want to provide some bad advice...

My thought is that one side of the fitting is CPVC and the other plain PVC... so no matter which glue you picked you'd only be half right.. :p

Thanks again,

Jim R.
 

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I think it was mentioned somewhere (maybe even by Jim) that it needs 12 hours to cure cpvc with regular glue.

I have not used but I think there is a red glue that works for both. If it was me and I had good glue already I would use regular glue
 
I used the Oatley yellow (cleaner), purple (primer), red (cement) just like I always do for PVC. The cans all say they work on both PVC and CPVC so that's a good sign. Pump is running and no leaks.
 
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