Hello, I have an outdoor in-ground pool with auto coverstar pool cover. I'm using all hayward equipment: aqualogic goldline controller, hayward T-Cell-15 chlorinator. My current stabilizer level is between 45 and 50. Free Chlorine is at about 3 to 4 and combined chlorine about 1. Water is perfectly clear and chlorinator was cleaned about a week ago. the amps on chlorinator are at 25.64 and volts 7.24 and salt 3100ppm. the chlorinator is about 2 years old and I have recalibrated it where the display matches the diagnostic reading as advised by hayward. The chlorinator does not appear to be kicking out much chlorine even running it at 40% for 8 hours each day. I've read that the correct stabilizer level should be about 50 in the hayward chemistry guides. I'm concerned this should be higher given it is outdoors and covered most of time. Please advise on the correct level of stabilizer for my situation. Also, is the troublefreepool pool math calculator an accurate method to calculate on how much stabilizer to add? Thanks!
Correct Stabilizer level for outdoor covered pool
- Thread starter jkpool
- Start date
With a covered pool (or an indoor pool) you don't lose much if any FC to UV light, so you can run a lower CYA level. So 45-50 is actually high.
If your pool stays covered most of the time, either
a) The SWCG isn't putting out or
b) You have the beginnings of an algae bloom that's eating FC at the same rate it's being generated.
An Overnight Chlorine Loss Test will tell you if there's something eating it. Don't forget to leave pump on, SWCG off for the test.
If your pool stays covered most of the time, either
a) The SWCG isn't putting out or
b) You have the beginnings of an algae bloom that's eating FC at the same rate it's being generated.
An Overnight Chlorine Loss Test will tell you if there's something eating it. Don't forget to leave pump on, SWCG off for the test.
Hello,
I will run an overnight chlorine loss test this weekend and get back to you on the result. Some additional information on recent tests: a nitrate/nitrite test that I ran showed we have nitrates of 5 and nitrites of zero on the test strip kit that we used .Phosphates are under 100. I dose for phosphates weekly per Phosfree guideliines. Is it possible to have nitrates at my tested level in my pool and still be able to generate chlorine? Or do you need to have a reading of zero nitrates/ zero nitrites? I have just brushed the fiberglass sides of the pool and plan on changing the filters out after a vacuum. Also, given that my stabilizer is below 50, could raising it to between 50 and 60 possibly correct the issue? Thanks!
I will run an overnight chlorine loss test this weekend and get back to you on the result. Some additional information on recent tests: a nitrate/nitrite test that I ran showed we have nitrates of 5 and nitrites of zero on the test strip kit that we used .Phosphates are under 100. I dose for phosphates weekly per Phosfree guideliines. Is it possible to have nitrates at my tested level in my pool and still be able to generate chlorine? Or do you need to have a reading of zero nitrates/ zero nitrites? I have just brushed the fiberglass sides of the pool and plan on changing the filters out after a vacuum. Also, given that my stabilizer is below 50, could raising it to between 50 and 60 possibly correct the issue? Thanks!
Welcome to TFP!
The SWG is making chlorine with the 7.24 amps.
The CC of 1 might be caused by organics or leaving the cover on the pool for too long. The OCLT will determine if there are organics in the water. To properly run an OCLT you must use a FAS/DPD test for chlorine, test strips will not be accurate enough.
How long do you keep the pool covered?
Don't bother with nitrates or nitrites, it's a pool store way to get more money from you by buying Phosfree.
The SWG is making chlorine with the 7.24 amps.
The CC of 1 might be caused by organics or leaving the cover on the pool for too long. The OCLT will determine if there are organics in the water. To properly run an OCLT you must use a FAS/DPD test for chlorine, test strips will not be accurate enough.
How long do you keep the pool covered?
Don't bother with nitrates or nitrites, it's a pool store way to get more money from you by buying Phosfree.
santacruzpool
Gold Supporter
We also have a auto cover that is closed most of the time - after 4 swim seasons I have found that 30-40 CYA works great. Last year I tried to run it a bit lower, but at one point during the summer it dropped to under 20 and I found I started having trouble keeping chlorine in the pool when it was not covered for longer periods on the weekends and evenings...Once the cover was opened the chlorine would drop pretty quickly in our strong California sun, so now going below 30 is out of my comfort range.
Just last week I upped it to 40 for the upcoming summer.
Just last week I upped it to 40 for the upcoming summer.
I was able to fix the issue. It appears my stabilizer level needed to be higher. I added 8 ounces. I also noticed that when I placed the stabilizer in the skimmer after removing the basket, a lot of the stabilizer cystals got hung up around the suction opening. I took a hose and cleared that out. Now after a few days running on the normal 8 hour schedule, my chlorine is up to 9 free chlorine.
Question: for outdoor in-ground pools, how often should you check your stabilizer throughout the season and from your personal experience, how often did you have to add stabilizer in during the summer to maintain the correct level? Thanks!
Question: for outdoor in-ground pools, how often should you check your stabilizer throughout the season and from your personal experience, how often did you have to add stabilizer in during the summer to maintain the correct level? Thanks!