Converting to VS from SS

PoorPoolOwner

Gold Supporter
Apr 26, 2024
45
Alabama
Pool Size
33000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Currently have the HST110 SS 230v and would like to go to a VS to save electricity and be able to enjoy the games on TV without the loud noise.

Kinda confusing, but here it goes:
33k gallons; sand filter; AquaRite? System;
Was a salt water pool, but salt cell went out, and my wife didn’t want to mess with it anymore. (All of this was before we married) I used chlorine last year and I’m fine with it, but I am considering going back to salt, so I am looking at all options. I am not sure if the board is shot.
If I were to go to a whole new system, what would be the best route?
 
PPO,

Well, in general, you will need a salt cell that is rated for a 60K pool.. Your salt cell needs to be at least 2 x the volume of the pool, but 60 is as high as they go.. Probably why your original cell did not work well..

The larger the VS pump the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.. I never recommend the smaller 1.5 HP VS pumps... I have an older 3 HP IntelliFlo that runs 24/7. mostly at a lower RPM, for less than $20 bucks a month.. You have to touch it just to make sure it is still running... :mrgreen:

One option is to buy a 3 HP IntelliFlo3 with a relay card. The relay card can be used to control the SWCG so that is can't run unless the pump is running.


This would also allow you to use a CircuPool Salt cell.


Thanks,

Jim R.
 
PPO,

Well, in general, you will need a salt cell that is rated for a 60K pool.. Your salt cell needs to be at least 2 x the volume of the pool, but 60 is as high as they go.. Probably why your original cell did not work well..

The larger the VS pump the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.. I never recommend the smaller 1.5 HP VS pumps... I have an older 3 HP IntelliFlo that runs 24/7. mostly at a lower RPM, for less than $20 bucks a month.. You have to touch it just to make sure it is still running... :mrgreen:

One option is to buy a 3 HP IntelliFlo3 with a relay card. The relay card can be used to control the SWCG so that is can't run unless the pump is running.


This would also allow you to use a CircuPool Salt cell.


Thanks,

Jim R.
Sorry for the delay, been swamped.
If I stick with lc, would you still suggest the pentair 3hp VS or cheaper options? TIA
 
PPO,

It is easy for me to spend your money... :mrgreen:

Until recently I had three saltwater pools and they all had Pentair equipment.. 3 HP IntelliFlo pumps, IC40 SWCG, and EasyTouch automation systems.. They have worked flawlessly for the last 12 to 15 years... I love them, and any new equipment I buy will be Pentair..

So... I am a tad biased... :)

Without an automation system you can buy whatever pump you want.. That said, I would never recommend, using a small HP VS pump (1.5 HP range).. Any VS pump that is in the 3HP range will work..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Pentair priced me out. It works great, no question. But at this point i'd rather roll the dice that I wouldn't need 5 calimar's for the cost of the Pentair. I saw $2499 a few weeks back and I wouldn't spend that if I hit the lotto.

Big Pumpaceuticals can go scratch IMO. :ROFLMAO:
 
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If I were to go to a whole new system, what would be the best route?
Do not get a pump with SVRS.

Low budget pumps:
Calimar 3hp
Waterway Defender 2.7

High budget pumps:
Pentair intelliflo3
Hayward Triton VS 950

As for the salt, get a Circupool RJ-60+ You need 2x your pool size. The only other that is 60 is the Pentair IC-60, but that will be twice the price of the Circupool.
 
After re-reading, Pump Basics - Further Reading, I wonder if a VSP would have any benefit for my rather-basic pool configuration other than noise and cost.

I'm still running my original 1999 pumps and motors. I say "original" as in the story about the "original" axe that George Washington used to chop down the cherry tree - "the head has been replaced twice and the handle three times".

My pump housings are original, though I've reworked their guts a few times. The two large motors have been rebuilt several times. The local electric-motor shop owner is a friend of mine. Last summer, I took one of my motors in to him. He told me that the rebuilding cost is now at the point that I could buy a new motor for about the same price that he would have to charge to rebuild it. I still went ahead and had him do the service. I know his rebuilds are top-quality and thought I might as well keep the money local. However, with the laws changing, it is time to explore the new alternatives.

Reliability and minimal maintenance is a primary goal for me, so my pool operation is based on the KISS principal. One pump runs the filter/skimmer/heater. The other runs the waterfall. Independant circuits. I don't think I have a need for more than one speed for each pump. I am aware that larger VSP pumps run quieter and more economically than these old single-speeds - after recouping the higher initial cost. Are there other advantages of a VSP over SS for my application that I am overlooking?

The next time one of my motors lets go, I anticipate replacing it with a big VSP for the reasons above (particularly the quieter operation!) For my new pumps, durability and reliability are more of a concern than cost. In your experience, are the higher-budget pumps worth the premium or are some of the budget selections equally long-lived and trouble-free - while perhaps lacking in bells and whistles? This might be useful info for the OP.

By the way, let me add a thank-you for the work all you volunteers do. This site is an amazing resource!
 
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are the higher-budget pumps worth the premium or are some of the budget selections equally long-lived and trouble-free -
The generic pumps seem to have a similar failure rate as the flagships to date. The Calimar / Black and Decker / Circupool/ Blue Torrent (clones) have only been around a few years with the current model, but so far look promising.
I wonder if a VSP would have any benefit for my rather-basic pool configuration other than noise and cost.
Low noise and low cost operation are all any of us get out of it. :)

Unless you have PV solar credits to waste, a VS pump pays for itself, even the expensive ones. The cheaper ones pay for themselves several times over.
 

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Okay, so I’m going with the 3hp Calimar.
I have 1.5” plumbing, I have to replace two (broken) ball valves (they installed them when pool was built) with the Jandy valves. After cutting the PVC, should I replace all the plumbing on the pad with 2” since I have to get two 2” unions, or just put reducers coming out of the the unions?
 
It won't make an appreciable difference either way. Which way will you sleep better about it ? :ROFLMAO: If the same, then use the reduces because they're easier.
 
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I too am about to switch to a VS pump. My current 1hp motor is going out and a rebuild turned into seeing salt and corrosion inside so I talked my wife into a VS replacement.
Anyway I decided to use Ai to check some comparisons between cost and everything and was pretty impressed with the info it spit out so I thought I would mention that in case you want to see some more data with your specific setup.

Other than the first thing talking about the turn over importance I think the info was pretty good

Ai results:
With your pool at 19,000 gallons and the CircuPool RJ-45 Plus saltwater generator (SWG) paired with the Century VGreen 1.65 HP variable speed pump running 24/7 in Greenville, SC, with Laurens Electric, we can refine the lowest speed needed and the associated cost, factoring in your pool size and turnover needs alongside the SWG’s flow requirements.

### Step 1: CircuPool RJ-45 Plus Flow Requirements
The RJ-45 Plus requires:
- **Minimum flow rate**: 25 GPM to operate and avoid flow switch errors.
- **Maximum flow rate**: 105 GPM.
- Designed for pools up to 45,000 gallons, it’s well-suited for your 19,000-gallon pool.

The pump must deliver at least 25 GPM to keep the SWG running reliably.

### Step 2: Pool Turnover Considerations
For a 19,000-gallon pool, standard practice recommends 1–2 turnovers per day for cleanliness and chemical distribution:
- **1 turnover**: 19,000 gallons ÷ (1440 minutes/day) = ~13.2 GPM average.
- **2 turnovers**: 19,000 gallons × 2 ÷ 1440 = ~26.4 GPM average.

Running 24/7, the pump’s constant flow equals the average turnover rate. At 25 GPM (the SWG minimum), you’d get:
- 25 GPM × 1440 minutes = 36,000 gallons/day, or ~1.9 turnovers—perfectly adequate for a 19,000-gallon pool and aligning with the RJ-45 Plus’s needs.

### Step 3: VGreen 1.65 HP Pump Flow at Low Speeds
The VGreen 1.65 (e.g., ECM16SQU) ranges from 600 to 3450 RPM, and flow depends on RPM, your existing pump’s wet end, and total dynamic head (TDH). For a 19,000-gallon pool, assume typical plumbing (1.5”–2” pipes, 20–40 ft TDH). Flow estimates with a standard 1–1.5 HP pump housing (e.g., Hayward Super Pump or Pentair WhisperFlo):
- **3450 RPM**: ~60–80 GPM (say 70 GPM at moderate head).
- **1200 RPM**: ~20–25 GPM (35% of max flow).
- **1500 RPM**: ~25–35 GPM (43% of max flow).

To hit 25 GPM:
- **1200 RPM**: May deliver 25 GPM in a low-head system (e.g., 2” pipes, short runs, clean filter), but it’s near the edge.
- **1500 RPM**: More consistently provides 25–30 GPM, ensuring SWG operation and accounting for typical head loss.

Given your smaller pool size, TDH is likely moderate (not overly restrictive), so 1200 RPM could work, but 1500 RPM remains a safer bet for reliability.

### Step 4: Lowest Practical Speed
For the RJ-45 Plus’s 25 GPM minimum and your pool’s turnover:
- **1200 RPM**: Likely achieves ~25 GPM in your setup, meeting both SWG and turnover needs (~1.9 turnovers/day). This is the theoretical minimum if your plumbing is efficient.
- **1500 RPM**: Delivers ~28–30 GPM, exceeding the SWG minimum and providing ~2.2 turnovers/day, offering a buffer for filter backpressure or debris.

Since you’re running 24/7, 1200 RPM should suffice for your 19,000-gallon pool, but test it to confirm the SWG doesn’t trip.

### Step 5: Power Consumption and Cost
Using Laurens Electric’s 15.75 cents/kWh:
- **1200 RPM**: ~0.3 kW (300 watts).
- Energy = 0.3 kW × 24 hours = 7.2 kWh/day.
- Cost = 7.2 kWh × $0.1575 = **$1.13/day** or **$33.90/month** (30 days).
- **1500 RPM**: ~0.45 kW (450 watts).
- Energy = 0.45 kW × 24 hours = 10.8 kWh/day.
- Cost = 10.8 kWh × $0.1575 = **$1.70/day** or **$51/month**.

### Final Answer
For your 19,000-gallon pool with the VGreen 1.65 HP pump and CircuPool RJ-45 Plus running 24/7:
- **Lowest speed**: **1200 RPM** should work, delivering ~25 GPM, meeting the SWG’s 25 GPM minimum and providing ~1.9 turnovers/day. If the SWG indicates “low flow,” increase to **1500 RPM** (~28–30 GPM) for reliability.
- **Cost at 1200 RPM**: **$1.13/day** or **$33.90/month**.
- **Cost at 1500 RPM**: **$1.70/day** or **$51/month**.

### Recommendation
Start at 1200 RPM after installation. Monitor the RJ-45 Plus for flow errors and verify chlorine levels (aim for 1–3 ppm free chlorine). If needed, bump to 1300 or 1500 RPM. Your 19,000-gallon pool’s moderate size and the RJ-45 Plus’s capacity suggest 1200 RPM will likely be enough, keeping costs low at $33.90/month. Let me know how it performs once installed!
 
Your 19,000-gallon pool’s moderate size and the RJ-45 Plus’s capacity suggest 1200 RPM will likely be enough
Nothing like a free word salad just in time for lunch. THANKS. :ROFLMAO:


For those not in the know, let's make the above sentence about cars.

Your mid-sized SUV and 100 gallon gas tank suggests that 30 mph is a good driving speed.

(A and B do not relate to C)
 
If your budget is limited, get the VS this year and get the SWG when the funds are available. Both pay for themselves in time. For the SWG the largest ones are generally the lowest cost over time. You can't oversize a salt cell, it will run at a lower duty cycle to output the needed amount of chlorine. A SWG without a VS is usually going to require the pump to run longer and use more electricity. A VS pump would run the same amount of time or longer, but at a lower speed and use less electricity overall.

Figuring out the speed and run times for the VSP takes a little bit of experimenting to determine the lowest speeds that get the job done and to figure out when to run the pump at higher speeds to better skim debris out of the pool. I have mine run most of the day and some of the night and have it run at higher speeds for a half hour or so before times I am likely to use the pool.
 
Got my Calimar 3hp in today. I’m almost convinced that I should buy the CircaPool RJ 60+.
Here’s my pad and would like to get suggestions on how you would re-plumb it. This has been here for close to 20 years. Anything you would do differently besides unions and valves? Should I hard plumb the Polaris that’s basically never used, but don’t really want to get rid of it? Ignore cords, I’m redoing the electrical too.
 

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Never seen the brand. For my money, I like the known brands for the quality and interoperability. These may be just fine. Ratings on Amazon are 76% 5-star.
 

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